Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads Are Loose, They're Clunking And Squealing Already!

SargeRX8
 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I just bought a set of brake QFM HPX brake pads for my R33. Fitted them in etc. I havent done any hard braking at all and bedding them as per all other brakes(light braking, nothing too hard). The brakes are squealing like shit. I took the pads off and they seriously look glazed. My old brake pads did the same thing. I have no idea why this is happening. Could it be my rotors? Ive got slotted DBA rotors. My rotors with my old brake pads were like a mirror silver finish. Now they look like they got a rusty kind of colour.

Also when I'm reversing or rolling back, if I just tap tap tap the brakes I can hear the pads clunking. I examined them and there is a fair bit of play in them... What the f**k?

Help guys. If anyone is in Sydney I can show you my car or if anyone can suggest a place.

Are R33 GTR brakes bolt on to R33 GTST's?

R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
Posted

Thier is a diffrence in gtst and gtr brakes (thinkness defently diamiter not shore.

when you bed them in how much pressure did you use, if you used light (i.e lown time to slow down) they probly didn't bed properly.

use about 1/2 to 2/3 pedal pressure from 80 -100km to about 30-40km/h. also were they locked in properly. i have seen my springs that hold the rods that go thew the pads com loose and rod start to work its way out.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Should I get my rotors machined and the brakes discs sanded then start bedding again? How long do I have to bed for? People say 100km, but is that 100km of braking or 100km of driving involving braking?

R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Probly not a bad idea to get them machined (did you do this when you put the new pads in, should always do this with new pads) about a 30 min drive should be enough to bed in brakes (about 10 aplercations of 100 ish to 40 ish to get them to work, then drive a bit not thrasing it tho. thats i used to do, do the bed in then drive for a bit.

Edited by R TUNE
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How hard from 100 - 40? People say about 2/3 brake pedal. I'm gonna first see why the hell they are moving in the caliper. When I reverse and tap the brake I can hear them clunk clunk clunk. Only in reverse and I am sure its brake related as my old ones weren't doing that. Ill also get the brake pads shaved 1mm to remove any glazing which occured.

Dani Boi Grand Master

Dani Boi

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all,

I just bought a set of brake QFM HPX brake pads for my R33. Fitted them in etc. I havent done any hard braking at all and bedding them as per all other brakes(light braking, nothing too hard). The brakes are squealing like shit. I took the pads off and they seriously look glazed. My old brake pads did the same thing. I have no idea why this is happening. Could it be my rotors? Ive got slotted DBA rotors. My rotors with my old brake pads were like a mirror silver finish. Now they look like they got a rusty kind of colour.

Also when I'm reversing or rolling back, if I just tap tap tap the brakes I can hear the pads clunking. I examined them and there is a fair bit of play in them... What the f**k?

Help guys. If anyone is in Sydney I can show you my car or if anyone can suggest a place.

Are R33 GTR brakes bolt on to R33 GTST's?

I put QFM hpx pads on my 33 with brand new rotors and have no squeeling problems, however, I do have the clunking sound when stopping in reverse. It happens when I reverse then put my foot on the brake then when you release the brake pedal you can hear them move. Not sure what's causing it as I'm positive I installed them correctly

Did you follow this for bedding in? http://www.rdabrakes...and-rotors.html

Edited by Dani Boi
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

When I reverse and tap the brake I can hear them clunk clunk clunk. Only in reverse and I am sure its brake related as my old ones weren't doing that. Ill also get the brake pads shaved 1mm to remove any glazing which occured.

Did you re fit all the stainless corner shims on the tops of the pads when you put the new ones in? These stop the pads from clunking back & forth in the caliper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...