Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DONT MISS OUT ON THIS CHANCE TO HAVE TITANIUM ! I currently have this exhaust on my car and im wanting to swap/sell it for a 3.5" JAPANESE Brand Cat back (Stainless) . This exhaust isnt really the sound i am after(Very Raspy/GTR Sound) . I am open to reasonable offers and i can garentee you this exhaust only weighs around 4kg and is very clean (almost new) . Im trying to track down a nice deep sounding stainless exhaust so let me know what you guys have!

If i dont get a trade i will be selling it for $800

post-56843-0-01130200-1298847986_thumb.jpg

post-56843-0-55767900-1298847995_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355498-titanium-exhaust/
Share on other sites

Damnit if I had the cash I would buy this for $800 in a second.

If you want a very deep sounding exhaust a recommend a Blitz one. Every single one I have heard (including mine) is very deep (and loud).

So far is a toss up over a Apexi N1 and Trust PE II? I heard you car at dyno day last year Renault one and it was sick ^^

i have a 3.5 in mega n1 currently on my gtr, if your interested we can meet up and trade sounds...

im near the airport, i can meet you half way or something..

call me if you want 0404 301 881

Ive got the same Trust Ti-R system on my car at the moment. The note is awesome. I love that it vibrates the garage door when the car is idling at ~900 rpm. Plenty deep enough a note with a little more displacement. Havent tried setting off carpark alarms yet but I think it could probably do it.

Mine had a 3" flange on it too, but expands out to 90mm/3.5" for the rest of the pipe work. Its straight forward to cut off the titanium flange and change it to a slip fit join so you can link a 3.5" cat to it with no size changes after the cat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...