Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, considering selling my stagea,

1999Nissan Stagea WGNC34 25T RS-FOUR V

FactoryOptions

· RB25DET NEO (92,000Kms)

· 5-speed Manual (Exeddy 5PUK Button Clutch,Nismo Slave)

· Leather Seats

· Xanavi System (TV, GPRS, Climate)

· Twin Sunroof

· Tinted Windows (Darkest Legal)

· Tow Bar (2000Kg)

· Xenon Headlights

· Rear Cargo Blind

· Rear Cargo Net

· Rear Cargo Rubber Matt

· Dayz Kit (minus front bar)

· N/A Grille

· Nissan MOMO Steering Wheel

· 5 Piece Floor Matts

· 3 Keys/ 2 Alarm Remotes

· M35 Rear Window Wiper

After-MarketEngine Mods

· HKS 25/35 Turbo (Braided Lines, whole setup 10,000ks old)

· Head Porting/polishing

· 620CC Siemens Deka Injectors

· Z32 AFM

· Turbosmart Kompact BOV (Recirc)

· Apexi Power-Intake Pod (solid intake)

· R33 4pot (F) 2pot ® Brakes

· HEL Braided Brake Lines

· Tomei Short Shifter, Apexi leather knob

· G-Square White Dash background

· R32 GTR Front Seats (comes with stock leather seats also)

· Jap brand Rear Spoiler

· Drift Tek 17x9.5+15 (225/40/17s streched on with 90% tread)

· Tein Type CS Coilovers (height/damp adj)

· ISC Rear Camber/Toe Arms

· Apexi Front Strut Brace W Brake MasterStopper

· SUSTEC Gearbox Tunnel Brace

· GTR Rear Strut Brace

· Nismo 24MM Solid Front/Rear Swaybars (polyuthbushes throughout)

· Polyuth Steering Rack Bush

· Greddy Profec specb EBC

· Nisstune ECU

· 3" Turbo-Back Exhaust (with DECAT)

· Nismo clear Indicators

· Pioneer IPOD headunit

· ADVAN FMIC

· Splitfire Coilpacks

· Front and Rear Eye brow/lightcovers

· Walbro 255L/PH Fuel pump

· Big Alarm

· Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge

Car was imported in 2009 instock form at 80,000kms (I am 1st Aus owner) Engine was Re-Built byLEWIS ENGINES late 2010 due to timing belt issue. Head was ported and polished,Manual Conversion (r32 GTR Gearbox),Timing belt was all done at the same time.

Motul Chrono 300V engine oil(changed at 5k intervals, with magnetic sump plug)

Car made 220AWKW and 260RWKWOn the turbotune dyno at 16psi (3000rpm)

Full inport papers/auctionreport

Fully Rego/complied

Many stock parts andreceipts come with car

might be keen on the following swaps, evo 9, v35, some form of thug Cube! (v35 would need to be manual, premium edition...)

asking 25,000 ONO seeing as ive spent a tad over 20 on her this year :'(.... will be willing to negotiate removal of certain mods to lower price

located in adelaide

email [email protected]

much more to say, ring for info.

Adam: 0400099986

post-47249-0-08911000-1298852917_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-13745300-1298853337_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-75872900-1298853658_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-83900500-1298853690_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-91736900-1298853855_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-86959200-1298853904_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-82751100-1298853941_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-01233900-1298854056_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-83451700-1298854172_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-01531800-1298854224_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-47495600-1298854267_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-32041900-1298854336_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-58484500-1298854498_thumb.jpg

post-47249-0-51929200-1298854531_thumb.jpg

Edited by chef_stagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355509-modded-dayz-manual-s2-stagea/
Share on other sites

Hi chef

can I interest you in a vr commy,terrible condition brown paint,badly worn brakes and the roof lining falling down?

I'd have to ask for some cash my way of course

you have my number,call me to discuss a deal

thanks

forgot to mention.... car has 330NM of torque... and fullboost is there as low at 3000rpm!. its a seriously zippy thing! will be willing to help out with interstate buyers if need be!

  • 2 weeks later...

gtr seats have been removed and replaced with the OEM stock leather electric seats...

also 4 brand spanker slotted RDA rotors are on there way along with new QFM brake pads! (just under $1000!!)

offers must be quick... or demod will begin

  • 2 weeks later...

wheels sold

rubber matt sold

rear strut brace sold

front brace sold

the new pads and rotors i had are also gone. (current ones still very meaty)

splitfire coilpacks sold

new price as is minus whats been mentioned above

$22750

21750 with no coil overs ??

Take off 2.2k and ill take off turbo, inj. Z32 and ecu and replace with stock bits!!

Take off swaybars for another 300!

Take off 400 for brakes!

Oh and offers on bits r welcome i

Guess!!

Good luck with the sale adam

One of the most Super clean,well maintained,tastefully modded and proper fast stagea for sale at the moment

If id have had these mods and the look of mine (rip) in one car id be a very Happy dude

Rodders xoxo

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...