Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After spending the past 4 hours reading through this thread, I have come to the conclusion on a few things:

1) I should probably get back to work

2) There is a lot of things that I still do not understand

3) I plan on building a 34 GTR myself, but I have much better ways to spend 3 years and god knows how much money on this kind of indepth project. Though, I admire the patience, skill, knowledge and workmanship that has been put into this magnificent machine. This is truly remarkable and will hopefully change the future of modifcation of RB engines, and cars in general - especially if this venturi manifold does spool that turbo in the way and at the engine speed that it should.

Just a couple of questions Bobby. I know you have probably done many more calculations than I have on the following question/comment concerning the air compressor to try make boost on idle.. We had a shop engine we were trying to do the same thing to, and we could only make a measly 5psi after having 3 lines of shop air tapped into the manifold pointing directly at the impeller - obviously we could only get such low compression because the impeller runs off volume rather than pressure. How do you manage to overcome this?

Also - 3 years is a long time to be working on this project, how did you stay motivated up to this point? I certainly would have lost interest and even reading the thread I skipped a few pages at the end haha.

You were involved in building one of my mates' r34, I think you named it goldfinger. I can see now why he chose your company to build his car because you obviously have the willingness to go the extra mile for your customers as shown in his car, and in this thread. +1 to you and to your team. If I ever have the money (haha not in my lifetime) to do something as dramatic as this, it will be a no brainer who to go to. Good luck with the rest of the build.

Thanks mate.

I will have to ask John in more detail on how he is going to set it up as i know using co2 works as it expands 500 times when it hits heat.

I have stayed positive as the fab work was amazing and i said to myself i just have to stick it out not more the time frame.

Khris car comes back tomorrow will post up some pics of the finished product.

Great effort you must be chuffed!

Regarding your M800, did retain the original ecu for anything minor or has it been removed completely?

I ask this as I have been running both for the last 6 years.

The workshop that fitted/tuned it said it still needed both at the time.

Fantastic car anyway and all the best with it.

Great effort you must be chuffed!

Regarding your M800, did retain the original ecu for anything minor or has it been removed completely?

I ask this as I have been running both for the last 6 years.

The workshop that fitted/tuned it said it still needed both at the time.

Fantastic car anyway and all the best with it.

Its full stand alone m800. Next year we will be installing the m150 again stand alone

  • Like 1

Its full stand alone m800. Next year we will be installing the m150 again stand alone

Hello Bobby,

I am very interested to know what you did to make it stand alone.

I think my original was left to run Atessa with the TPS signal.

Realise this all costs money and am more than willing to pay for a wiring diagram and the additional MotecM800 setting.

All the best with the car

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
    • Generally yes but for some reason I've been ruthless this time around!  I might even need to do another tip run after the way I've finally been able to hit the delete button on shit I've stepped over, stepped around and tripped over for the past 10 years!
×
×
  • Create New...