Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ID2000 because of the volume of fuel at high rpm will not atomize properly, by having it further away from the intake valve you allow the fuel/air mixture more time to mix properly and enter the chamber. Proven that is makes more power at higher rpm having the injectors further away.

We will have both blanks running under full load and both banks running full sequential.

Yes if it was me id just run the one injector ie ID2000's. Well i remember about 2 years ago when i said to John can we just run the one injector,one large one. John went into great detail and expained injector frequency can run one cycle out of phase im not sure what that means and he said this is why we run two bank to cover up the out of phase injector.

I guess whats in Johns head is a greater understand in full detail how this whole buid is going to work.

Spray pattern is extremly important Vs Fuel Pressure you can bump fuel pressure and have the injectors spray like a hose in full liquid form, this is a mistake made by many people. This can lead to detenation caused by bad air fuel mixing.

A big high flowing injector will not atomise the fuel very well, hence placing it further away from the intake port will increase atmosation as it travels to the inlet valve... try putting an injector at 90°to the port and see how you go!

Wouldnt poor atomisation be caused by using the incorrect spray pattern and fuel pressure?? Especially in a boosted application?? I understand that a larger injector would be harder to get perfect atomisiation. but if its the correct injector with the correct spray pattern for the application, setup at the correct pressure wouldnt the angle of the injector cause minimal issues with atomisation?? Could you expand on it a little?? Sorry for the off topic chatter bobby.

Wouldnt poor atomisation be caused by using the incorrect spray pattern and fuel pressure?? Especially in a boosted application?? I understand that a larger injector would be harder to get perfect atomisiation. but if its the correct injector with the correct spray pattern for the application, setup at the correct pressure wouldnt the angle of the injector cause minimal issues with atomisation?? Could you expand on it a little?? Sorry for the off topic chatter bobby.

Think about where they place injectors in F1... right outside the trumpet of the inlet parallel to the inlet port.

Think about where they place injectors in F1... right outside the trumpet of the inlet parallel to the inlet port.

Thats all well and good but it doesnt answer my question. I understand that where F1 cars have them is ideal placement. But in real cars u cant always have ideal placement. Ive seen some old collectable cars with efi conversions that had the injector hidden under the manifold. The injectors would have been mounted at a 90deg angle at the least. Obviously a high performance application will be different, But im trying to understand more of the science behind it.

I was at John's Workshop and I found some paper work related to the build. Its very interesting how much details John has gone into with his calculations. This was done back in 2008 and he has box loads of it.

I guess it would be a mission to post each page. Well I managed to get some pics of the paper work i know to some people it wont mean much however to some its priceless.

Enjoy

post-49633-0-37897500-1328618846_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-75514700-1328618899_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-08539100-1328619029_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-76211500-1328619116_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-97343400-1328619155_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-34119300-1328619207_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-70981600-1328619298_thumb.jpg

Makes my head hurt doing that kind of maths! Someone should teach John how to use MS Excel. Im sure he could then create the mother of all engine calc spreadsheets.

I noticed the mentioning of a water/meth injection system too. As your already running with 12 injectors, where will you be putting the injector nozzles? Just after the BOV's and before the plenum, or are you modifying the plenum further to support direct port injection as well?

Makes my head hurt doing that kind of maths! Someone should teach John how to use MS Excel. Im sure he could then create the mother of all engine calc spreadsheets.

I noticed the mentioning of a water/meth injection system too. As your already running with 12 injectors, where will you be putting the injector nozzles? Just after the BOV's and before the plenum, or are you modifying the plenum further to support direct port injection as well?

Hey Ian,

John can not go near a computer i have tried many times they just die everytime he touches them. Yes the calculations are done for everything on and in the motor.

The water methanol injection nozzel will be placed infront of the turbo. John has said this will help cool the charge and increase the pressure ratio of the turbo as you now are compressing air with liquid vapour ( density increase = higher turbo pressure ratio).

I will be using a snow performace setup that will be modified.

Cant wait to see the final results on this build Bobby..its awesome to see this level of detail , custom fabrication , not to mention the dollar amount.thumbsup.gif

I hope this can really achieve everything your hoping for..look forward to the next installments.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...