R32 Gt-R Serious Power Loss

[Samuel Leonard]

hi guys, have had this problem for a few months now and the only things that make it vary is the temperature. if it's warm and i put my climate control in full heat mode (hold down the hot button once the climate control is set to 32) it tends to get rid of it sometimes.

the problem: it's really in the lower rpm to be honest (2000 or there abouts) the car really lacks power. it feels amazing before boost while it's cool but once it warms up it becomes a dog to drive. if i go full noise from 2000 rpm in 2nd it feels gutless, i hear boost (to me it sounds like a bit of a boost leak) and it takes a few seconds after hearing boost to feel anything and some days it has the dead spot then it hits you with power, other days it's just dead no matter what...

it doesn't do it until i hear the viscous fan working hard. doesn't usually do it if the day is less that 25 degrees and it goes back to 100% power while it's cool. any ideas? what can i check?

also, i would assume it's not a boost leak if it goes away when cold but it sort of feels and sounds like it?

[Samuel Leonard]

i have a pretty good imagination and i imagine something like a sensor dropping out in the heat and the ecu retards the timing or something wierd like that? i only assume more of an electrical fault because it goes away? seriously frustrating!

[MrStabby]

Is your cooling system working well? Bleed at the head? distilled water+quality coolant? The factory temperature gauge is a bit crap, so if you can check the actual temperature with Consult if you have std ECU/nistune or the powerfc hand controller if that's what you have. You can also check other sensors while you're at it.

The ECU does have some defenses for over temperature, cant remember what they are... maybe fuel enrichment??

[marksuxass]

You will usually have 2 cooling temp sensors (one for the guage one for the ecm) Check the ecm coolant temp input is ok, via consult etc. See how you go after that

[Bayside Blue R34 GTV]

I know that the pfc drops the timing by few degrees if the water teperatutre hits over 85 (or whatever you set it to) i assume its the same with the std ecu? did you check to see if anything can cause the temperature to go up more than usual, eg, coolant, block radiator or hose or something like that.

[jrm]

it doesn't do it until i hear the viscous fan working hard. doesn't usually do it if the day is less that 25 degrees and it goes back to 100% power while it's cool. any ideas? what can i check?

From my experience (having had cooling issues with my car in the past), the viscous fan on my R34 doesn't really kick in till coolant hits above 95C - and that's getting into 'too hot' territory.

I'd be checking the standard stuff you do for your coolant system:

* that your thermostat isn't broken (opening at correct temperature, the rubber seal hasnt perished

* your radiator cap is working (my nismo radiator cap was causing a good part of my overheating issues - figure that, went back to standard and temps dropped 10C under particular conditions)

* checking your radiator for blockages - these will be impeding the radiator efficiency

* bleeding your coolant system to make sure there's no air-locks

If you're unsure on any of that stuff - take it to a radiator specialist.

[Samuel Leonard]

went for a drive with nissan scantech running today and by manually advancing the ignition timing i was able to make my problem a lot better and by manually retarding it it made it a WHOLE lot worse. after doing that i closed my adjustments and just recorded the drive home. if anyone has scantech you can view these by opening the program and in the top left under the tab view go engine log and open this notepad file.

i can't upload a .LOG file so i'll upload it as .txt and just change the extension to .log as you save it. scantech will open it then.

running temp.txt

[DVS JEZ]

get a wideband onto it, might have a lean spot( a hole in the fuel map) at that temp

[Samuel Leonard]

No idea what a wideband is? Is it through consult? Program on a laptop perhaps?

[Samuel Leonard]

No idea what a wideband is? Is it through consult? Program on a laptop perhaps?

[Samuel Leonard]

From my experience (having had cooling issues with my car in the past), the viscous fan on my R34 doesn't really kick in till coolant hits above 95C - and that's getting into 'too hot' territory.

I'd be checking the standard stuff you do for your coolant system:

* that your thermostat isn't broken (opening at correct temperature, the rubber seal hasnt perished

* your radiator cap is working (my nismo radiator cap was causing a good part of my overheating issues - figure that, went back to standard and temps dropped 10C under particular conditions)

* checking your radiator for blockages - these will be impeding the radiator efficiency

* bleeding your coolant system to make sure there's no air-locks

If you're unsure on any of that stuff - take it to a radiator specialist.

with consult on it i think the highest temp i saw was about 85 degrees and the viscous fan was on at about 75?

[DVS JEZ]

Wideband is an 02 sensor. Basically detects how much air is in the exhaust and then gives a readout on a gauge of the current air/fuel ratio.

[Samuel Leonard]

Where might oneself buy one of these very wide bands, sir? And how much?