Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, hope I have put this in the correct section.

I have started a transplant of a RB25DET S2 Manual into my 1971 LC Holden Torana. I bought a complete crashed donner R33 Series 1 4 door with S2 Motor so I though I would have everything there but once I got it home relized that the guy had cut out the ECU. So I was left with a Engine to 100 wires loom and no ECU.

I have bought ECUs and 2 looms but both have not worked, and one didnt even have the white plug on it.

So now, wonder what other options I have? Should I just buy a aftermarket loom and ECU? Is that possible or will I still need a good R33 Engine to ECU Loom? I have 99% of it there but it has been cut 5cm from the ECU Plug.

The plans for the motor are mild, it has a FMIC, I plan on putting a high mount turbo manifold and front facing plenum to allow for space between the rails and decent exhaust but thats about it. I also plan on using the R33 Dash in the Torana.

I appreciate any info I can get. :)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355619-rb25det-engine-loom-and-ecu-options/
Share on other sites

S1 and s2 looms and ecus are different and not to well compatible in my experience has something to do with the coil pack wiring and setup if that's any help are you sure it's a series 2 motor because they look identical to an untrained eye hope that helps

you can buy a short patch loom (call field extender or some such). it's used when people need to add stuff to their car that needs factory sensor signals but don't want to start hacking into their wiring. it basically has a female ECU plug on one end and the normal male plug on the other to extend the look a little. if you have everything but the ecu plug then I would buy one of those (about $100). cut off the female plug. then attach the wires to the ones now coming out of the male plug. the wiring diagram for the ecu connector is easy to find so that shouldn't be too hard.

they look like this:

H-111_500.jpg

This might be a option. :)

I tired it with the Series 1 loom that I bought, cut off the plug and but had a few wires in the harness that had the same colour multiple times. Plus the series one loom has different colours and missing wires. Headache.

Its fairly easy. Just find yourself a S2 loom, uncut, chuck it in, and there will be a few wires you need to power up for it to run.

Theres a grey plug on the P/S side which is power for injectors and coilpacks etc. Wire a couple up to power and thats done.

Then there will be 2 or 3 white plugs which require start signal and a few others to run.

It ll be tricky...Pinouts and wiring diagrams will help you.

If you want to run the 33 dash then thats going to be a bit (alot) of work. Just run a Monster tach or something for rpm! OR if youre really keen, transplant an entire R33 loom into the car! That will make things alot easier with wiring IMO.

If youre willing to do it yourself itll be alot cheaper than having an auto elect wire up a full standalone such as a WOLF or something else.

Youll also save on tuning if you can run a std ECU or even a PowerFC is alot easy to tune than a universal ECU and will run better.

Cheers guys. Picked up a unmolested SII Loom tonight so will put that into the car on Thursday and see how it goes. Hope it starts.

I did thinking about transplanting whole loom, but I wont be running things like the A-LSD, Airbags, A/C so how will the ECU preform?

Failing that you could have just grabbed a brand new one from Nissan.

They are actually rather cheap - around $600$-$700 if you can get someone to order trade.

Considering you've already brought 2 or 3 2nd hand ones so far, and all the fk assing around, would have been easier.

But as Femno said - just use as much of the loom as you can. It'll be much easier than using some of it and then wiring in another ECU entirely. That'll give you more headaches than you have already.

Well the car its going into is super basic. No ECU's to be seen in 1971! So the extra wiring might be handy.

Plugged it all in last night and was left with some extra plugs (3 with decent gage wiring) up behind the rear of the pass side strut tower.

Plus a extra one down near the ECU. There is:

- Blue ECU Plug - PLUGGED IN

- 1 Relay - PLUGGED IN

- 1 White Plug (Which I think goes to the Dash) - PLUGGED IN

- 1 White Plug that is smaller than above - Nothing to plug it into?

I was guarantied that it is out of a SII R33 DET Man.

Part of me thinks its a SI Car with a S2 Motor in it. Any ideas? If that doesn't make sense can get pics up tonight.

Cheers for the help.

Edited by MODNIZD

I think the one near passenger side strut tower is for the skyline wiper motor.

Have u tried to start it yet? Does the fuel pump prime Nd more to the point what fuel pump are u using and have u wired an ecu triggered relay for it?

Nah I have that one plugged in.

So it turns over, I have Power on the Coils, Fuel Pump is running. What do I check next?

These are the unknown plugs.

It looks like the half of the plug below this photo, would plug into this on the left.

post-74735-0-90152700-1299150368_thumb.jpg

post-74735-0-28848700-1299150383_thumb.jpg

post-74735-0-99754400-1299150395_thumb.jpg

and here are the plugs near the wiper motor that I have no idea what they do.

post-74735-0-25622900-1299150814_thumb.jpg

Looks like plugs for abs unit

The other two plugs by the air box will most likely be for the boost solenoid and the ac compressor? (if its a single wire) maybe u can though up a pic of those as well....wouldnt affect the running even though

Edited by Don Dada

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...