Jump to content
SAU Community

L28 Info


Recommended Posts

From the internets.

L2.9 ~ 3.2

When fitting an L28 with an LD28 crankshaft with standard bored cylinders it increases the engine displacement from 2.8 L (2753 cc) to about 2900 cc. It was never actually produced by Nissan but it is a very easy and common modification to the L28 done by many Skyline and Z car enthusiasts. The most popular modification is the 3 mm overbored(89 mm) L3.1 liter(3096cc) some add a turbo or two, but the more common setup is the triple Solex or Weber carburators. The only downside is that it is very hard to find an LD28 crank in good condition but fully counterweighted 83 mm stroke and even 85 mm stroke cranks can be bought from aftermarket companies such as Crower.

Without increasing bore size, fitting an L28 with the longer stroke LD28 crank will only result in 2.9L. In Japan and other parts of the world the popular "poormans mod" was the 3 mm~ overbore using the 89 mm ~ 90 mm Honda FT-500 / XL-500 motorcycle pistons along with the L14 rods. The real poorman would use the much cheaper/heavier 89 mm FJ20 or even KA24 engine pistons. All of these were cast pistons and had low endurance and would often fail when subjected to high compression and advanced ignition timing compared to custom forged pistons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on which L28 block you have too!

If you plan to over bore an F54 turbo block, forget about turbo or boosting even at factory 7 psi, because your engine is prone to failure at 89mm bore as the cylinder walls become to thin and become pourous allowing oil into the water through the cylinder walls under boost conditions. If your planning to use an F54 block and an 89mm bore with your LD28 crank stick to EFI at best.

The best block for an 89mm bore is an N42 no matter what anybody says or thinks, but if you go down the F54 track, don't come back to me when you have oil in your coolant and everything is operating as it should, because you have been warned.

And your LD28 crank isn't just going to drop into your L28 block without some extensive machine work. Go search HybridZ about this engine conversion because they have done this mod a lot in US. Most importantly, it IS NOT a cheap exercise as all the threads on HybridZ will tell you.

Cheers, D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah my L28 bored to 3.0L with triple webers was a N42/N42 and that was all put together in Japan. They no what they are doing over there, as that motor was incredibily reliable even after 10 years of being flogged.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks to all the replies ,the engine i have is a modified L28 its got a ported head ,brass guides,looks like big valves and a nismo cam ,the block i dont know whats been done to it ,i can get a LD28 crank for $500 but if i need to machine it i may not bother ,i also bought a tomei 1 mm head gasket and arp stud kit so i can use a 75 hp nos kit should go ok its also got triple mikunis and octopus legs :domokun:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks to all the replies ,the engine i have is a modified L28 its got a ported head ,brass guides,looks like big valves and a nismo cam ,the block i dont know whats been done to it ,i can get a LD28 crank for $500 but if i need to machine it i may not bother ,i also bought a tomei 1 mm head gasket and arp stud kit so i can use a 75 hp nos kit should go ok its also got triple mikunis and octopus legs :domokun:

You can add another $500 to that LD28 crank before you're going to get it into your block at least.

What casting is your L28 block? You will find the numbers just behind the left engine mount.

You wasted your money on an Tomei head gasket in my opinion, not worth a squirt of cat's piss.

Have fun with your NOS kit!

Cheers, D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only reason i put the got the head gasket was so i could run nos with out busting stock gaskets ,:cheers:

Yep! It will do that.

So your choice is to blow engines rather than a stock head gasket?

Ummmm very interesting concept!

As I said Have fun with your NOS kit!

Cheers, D

  • Like 1
  • Nope 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Which L28 blocks came in patrols? was it the F54? If you are staying NA could you still take out an N54 to 89MM?

What did the N42 block come in and where do you find them these days? L28 seem to be few and far between anyway these days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
    • Thanks for the replies guys, it's really appreciated.  It seems the kit was supposed to come with those injector bosses but hasn't. Unsure if they'll help as even with the adaptors to make them a 3/4 height injector they still sit too far out so mount the fuel rail?
×
×
  • Create New...