Vq35hr Conversion

[T04GTR]

changing it to 98 fuel now. fitting standard primary injectors. (main reason for e85 and/or avgas was i had 10 heat range spark plugs in it. and didnt want to foul 50 dollar each spark plugs.. ordered some 8's today.

+ the horrendous fuel consumption given that its running around town at 0.95-1 lambda and 0.85 on boost..

got the a/c working, its cold but on a 35 degree day it wont be.

i need to control the a/c compressor via the ecu not the 1990's climate control unit. (both r32 and 2008 vq have a "compressor control valve" but the strategy appears to be totally different, not surprise there.. probably inverted or something.

no idea on how the r32 unit controls the valve. easier to just let my ecu do it. but after lots of digging around on the net i found a calsonic tech paper on the valve in question.

mainly the voltage and pwm freq required to drive it.  as there is nothing in the workshop manual for testing it..

paddle shift is getting better, just lots of fine tuning on the road to get it smooth. for some reason i thought i could get it like a dsg.,. but im back in reality now lol. sometimes it is dead smooth. sometimes abit clunky. but that just depends on whether the dogs are lined up at that milisecond. its a 50/50 chance on each gear change.

federal 595 evo tyres are dogshit.. wet road CRUISING up from 40-50kph. i have in the order of 10-30% wheel slip.. 90 during a light gear change. lol. in the dry it keeps it in check. but sounds like a wet fart up to 3rd gear with all the torque reduction the ecu has to do.

http://www.r744.com/files/pdf_130.pdf

 

[T04GTR]

a/c works like a champ now.  100% duty it doesn't seem happy, 90-95% it cranks. needs more gas but.  i could put a pressure sensor on the a/c and monitor it to keep the pressure in the sweet spot, but for the time being a fixed duty ramping down  to 70% as rpm rises seems to work fine.

[T04GTR]

paddle shift works really well now. gear blip and cut times, even though in closed loop need alot of tweaking because it all happens in less than 50ms. just getting all the actuator delay times and amount of tps needed for each gear. going up and down, and every 1000rpm..

soon as i work out how to use a go-pro il post up a vid

[T04GTR]

put it on 98, and turned the boost up to 25psi. just shy of 810hp@wheels (pretty much right on 600rwkw)

e85 had retarded fuel economy.. time will tell with 98 and stock primaries.

 

made 636 on 15psi

stock primary injectors/1000cc secondaries (4 bar base pressure)

it got raped on the dyno today. burned though 60L of 98....

ned to gap the plugs or turn up the dwell on the coils. (abit fluffy though the middle on 25 psi)

 

should be fun at roll drags

 

 

[Ben C34]

Awesome!

[Leroy Peterson]

Faaaark what a beast

[T04GTR]

finished tuning it up on 98 today. 912hp/680rwkw @28psi (been putting some kms on it. and going to roll racing etc etc.)MOV_0440 - converted with Clipchamp.mp4MOV_0439 - converted with Clipchamp.mp4

[Piggaz]

Lunacy machine!

How does it go putting the power down?

[drag-on silvia]

Sorry i may have skimmed over this part but is that on the standard hr open deck block or is it sleeved

[Ben C34]

Wow!

[T04GTR]

stock block with custom deck guard.  traction control struggles with the federal 595's..... without it it will blaze any gear at 100+

[RICE RACING]

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 12/31/2017 at 7:17 PM, T04GTR said:

stock block with custom deck guard.  traction control struggles with the federal 595's..... without it it will blaze any gear at 100+

Stock block is amazing!!

might need some MTs at this rate

Try the Nankang AR-1 for budget semis (yes they're circuit tyres, but as they're super soft they would hook up on the straight), they should help if you don't want to spend the money on MTs

[T04GTR]

[email protected] (1.7 60') going next wed to see if i can launch it properly. and roll racing on friday.(thanks peter   ) sorted crank angle sensor issue.

probs wont go alot quicker, i dont want to run more boost on 98. and dont want to fit a PROPER water meth kit. (not just a pump,nozzel and a hobbs switch..)

the cherry/zf hall sensor is just not up to the task. was getting sync errors at high revs and unstable rpm. (gearshift,traction control rev limiter. and i think the really long input shaft for the gearbox is acting like a torsional spring and whipping the crank under high power, causing a false trigger or missed trigger of the hall sensor.

fitted a magnetic honeywell sensor. bloody thing was 200 dollars.. the only one i could find that was the correct length. (3/8 threaded)

problem solved. no more sync errors, no matter how hard i bash the limiter.

after fitting that i found a barra ford mag crank sensor in the bits draw of my toolbox... SAME LENGTH, SAME FLANGE MOUNT and denso aswell

farken.. because gtr..

im using mt et street r. 275-60-15 on 15x10 weld magnum with a 45mm wheel spacer. these are worn out. but still better than the road tires ive got.

[T04GTR]

so it popped a head gasket.. the of the shelf arp studs for the vq weren't up to the task..

the bores are all ok, as it just pushed the middle layer out.  i stripped it down, and noticed the wrist pins were bent.  160 wall off the shelf cosworth pins..

the bearings were ok, but were clearly being over loaded with 1000hp at the wheels..as the are the oem shells, and all that is available is the oem graded bearings. no good.

after looking at my big end journal size, 2.1246" and 17mm wide, ford winsor, 2.1234" 17.2mm so i will be taking only 1.2 thou!! to make a factory off the shelf ford bearing work

i will be using a bme aluminum rod with doweled bearings. (and yes, you can use them on the street.. just need to have the oil temp regulated between 60 and 90 degc

on the head stud situation.. im using vr38 studs, have to drill and tap/insert the block for them, but will be alot stronger.

pistons are still quite good, no real sign of being at there limit, apart from the pins deforming and flogging out the little end bush in the rods, il just be using some 200-220 wall pins.

i have got some cosworth head gaskets for it too. (had stock hr gaskets.)

so now its just a waiting game for the rods, then game on

[T04GTR]

rods arrived. now the fun begins

[Shoota_77]

Wow, they're beasts of things those rods!  Hows the weight difference between the aluminium and the steel rods.  Obviously a lot more material but lighter metal so possibly much the same weight?

Awesome job on doing something different!  Great to see.

[T04GTR]

thanks mate. about 100 grams lighter, but the pin is heavier. so more reciprocating but less rotational weight.  the thing revs like motorbike anyway.  way overkill, but will be interesting to see how they go.  it was the cheapest way to get a ford bearing in there. custom pro h carillos would be 2k+ usd.  mayby on the next one if this works. 

just getting rid of the graded nissan bearing was the main reason. as they were getting pounded.(mains aswell, only have 4 bearings doing the work of 7..) went in with 2 thou. cam out with 5... after 6500km.. i think they would be ok up to about 7-750 hp but not at 1100hp.. (engine)

its all on the pointy end of all of it. cosworh emailed me and said the pistons are good to 800hp.. we will see

[KiwiRS4T]

Your skills and knowledge are amazing. Interested to know what the VQ sounds like - be good to have someone video a 1/4 mile run when you are back on the track!

[T04GTR]

thanks mate. yeah sounds ok, but you need equal length pipes and a short y pipe for it to not sound like a chainsaw.

https://www.facebook.com/100009048704662/videos/1908770276101244/

https://www.facebook.com/ben.sinclair.568/videos/10155718413276154/