Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As Kyle from 6boost said, it was the only way to get a decent design. Worth it if the gains will be what I expect. Only way to get ahead of the pack is to go outside the norm..just gotta make the right selections ;)

Matt

Engine is in. Rear turbo inlet pipe fouls on the Strut tower.. I gather the manifold sits the turbo's in a slightly different position to std. More custom work required.

The Gearbox was also insanely hard to get in with the rear head drain...was hard enough with the Rb30 and sump adaptor which stops the motor tilting down as much. Its a pry bar job now.

Matt

Edited by BoostdR

If there are gains to be had... I'd be keen.

Saying that... by the time we'd buggered about with buying/fitting the manifolds, modding the intake pipe work, modding the oil and water lines, 'adjusting' the dump pipes/down pipes etc...

... aren't there a pair of top mount, external gate turbos to fitt- they may result in better performance??? for no other reason than there is not as much comprimise for fittment or wastegate size???

I don't know? I guess I'm asking the question- hmm.

What ever the answer, I like what BoostdR is doing- I can't wait to see the results!

Cheers

J.

PS. BoostdR- Do you get much low end comp surge? If so, I'd love to know if these manifolds help illiminate it..

I did have compressor surge before....only when boosting in a low rpm high gear. I feel the pipe kit will help this as I was still using the twin turbo pipe.

There are also alot of variation that could effect my rear turbo inlet pipe position.

Rb30 sits the head higher

Engine mounts position in the slots

Cast alloy hard pipe accuracy.

So if the manifolds are out a smidge and you used the standard rubber inlet pipes you wouldn't have and issue. Just very hard as the rear turbo outlet stops you doing that.

More findings today I'm sure.

Matt

Edited by BoostdR

Front pipes fitted up ok. I have modified the alloy hard pipe rear turbo inlet. There is about 5mm space from the front turbo wastegate and 10mm-15 to the strut tower. I also had to grind the upper suspension bolt for clearance as it protrudes into the engine bay by about 15mm near where the power steering resevoir is mounted. This has to be moved also.

looking forward to startup tomorrow.

Matt

Thanks for the kind words =)

I had to finish a 32GTR I had here today...took longer than expected so I have no updates for you.

I will get a some more pics. Makes more sense than my ramblings!

Matt

First start up, a few things stil to be finished

Sounds very sexual, quite different to before

Oil pressure was exactly what I was aiming for, 6bar(max). 1.1mm restrictor, std springs in reinmax pump

http://s1107.photobucket.com/albums/h388/boostdr/?action=view&current=fc70deb2.mp4

c8e7e255.jpg

7fe44cde.jpg

Seat of the pants results

Makes 1bar by about the same rpm, having said that it is noticeably more responsive from 1000-4000rpm. It makes 1bar just after 4000rpm however goes from 1bar to full boost in a few hundred rpm savagely. The motor also wants to rev, where as previously it would trail off around 8000rpm.

I had to drop the boost to 1.4bar as it's maxing out my 1000cc injectors. Will get some 2000cc for the dyno

The hard pipe kit has helped compressor surge, it still surges however is alot less and happily revs through.

Matt

Nice! Sound much different revving out?? So when are the new injectors and tune coming, and what boost are you going to run it to? Time for a new low mount 1/4 mile world record? ;)

I does sound quite different, louder and throatier. Injectors and tune won't be to far away. I just have to sort out some small issues, like why my Y intercooler pipe keeps blowing off and mounting my catch can... maybe also rotating the rear turbo outleft away from the front manifold.

No chance of a 1/4 mile run in Adelaide...we don't have a track :-/

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
×
×
  • Create New...