Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK and Bass Junky, are either of you adding another inlet to the airbox for this scoop, or are you simply re designing your own snorkel to work more efficiently?

I tried making an auxiliary snorkel that goes behind the passenger headlight in the R33, but was very limited in materials / tools, so I couldn't do it. (I had cut a hole out in front of the airbox lid). I then made a partition and sealed the engine bay off from the side of the airbox (which worked well, but looked a little dodgy), but I have since broken it, as it was made from perspex, which is very brittle, especially after heating it up to re-shape it.

Can you please provide details/pics (especially if it is the latter) as I am very interested.

Zahos

C-West have a kit for the 34 Bass Junky.

Looks like it extends down to the grill area.

You can just see it here

eye2.jpg

i've been searching for that c-west air intake,, but can't seem to find out the price to get one to australia,,

but with the radiator guide now,, i don't know if it'll become an overkill,, of even if it'll fit!!,,

I can't really see anything in that photo.

What I'm going to do it basically fashion a scoop from the bottom of the guide, much like the one made with sheetmetal and rivets in one of the posts in the R34 GTT group buy thread.

But insted of riveting it, I'm going to have it fabricated.

OK, I see what you are saying.

I like that Idea. The inlet on the airbox lid looks more than adeqaute enough to flow enough air, especially for my power levels, but i always thought the snorkel looked a little restrictive. Hmmm, I might give that a try myself.

Do you guys have any pics?

Interested in making a few for a group buy or something?

Actually even a mini tutorial as to how you made it would be good.

Zahos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of your suspension bushes/bolts etc, should also only ever be tightened when the car is sitting with full weight too.   IE, jack it back up, shove a heap of stuff down so you can lower the wheels onto so the car is "on the ground" but you have room to get under it.   It's why when properly done, you should be able to remove the shock and spring, but the arms won't go to 100% droop. If you don't do the above, you'll destroy your bushes.
    • We have some more genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates in stock 🙂, as well as the plain white 40mm hole cover: Tama 400 No 12-41: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-no-1241 Morioka 300 Te 43-58: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-te-4358 Plain White 40mm Hole Cover: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-40mm-hole-cover-white There's also a yellow plate for Kei cars with the corresponding yellow 40mm hole cover sold as a set: Tsukuba 581 Ii 64-66: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-single-number-plate-ii-6466 Also some Skyline 1/43 scale models: 1989 BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R (Silver): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/rare-ebbro-oldies-2006-release-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gtr-silver 1989 HCR32 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M (Red): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/kyosho-original-1-43-hcr32-nissan-skyline-gts-t-type-m-red
    • These arrived today! Sadly I'm going to probably be smart and enjoy the car as is over the summer/sunny period and save the ~2 weeks downtime it'd take to swap the heads over and tune later in the year. Maybe. It's going to be pretty damn tempting seeing these bolt on funs just sitting in storage when they're ready to go. There's a non-zero chance I end up @The Bogan'ing it.
    • MZ11 Toyota Soarer in Iwata, Higashi Osaka
×
×
  • Create New...