Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently installed my adjustable cam gear, and got it tuned. I was not happy with the service i was given, and when the tuner was dialing it in, he told me that 1 notch is 1 degree. Is this rite? I was told by many sau guys that 1 notch on the cam gear is equal to 2 degrees crank. anyway when i was told this i instanly started to worry.

So ill get to the point. Lookin at the cam gears on the engine, ie straight ahead, the exh cam gear is 2-3 notches to tdc. Now does this equate to 2-3 degrees? or 4-6 degrees?

Cheers, ill try post a pic, but my camera is dodge and doesnt pic up little details too well.

Thanks

Dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35613-what-are-my-cam-gear-settings/
Share on other sites

What brand of cam gear is it??

My first thought would be 2-3 marks (notches) would be 4-6 degrees.

I know the Greddy and the HKS ones are like this (the greddy one actually said it in the instructions).

I think someone mentioned that 4 degrees was about 1.9mm movement.

J

Yepp, that looks right.

The motor turns in a clockwise direction when your looking at the front of the motor.

So looking at the picture you can see that the cam is trailing (retard) the cam gear/belt.

It's hard to say, but the amount it is moved by looks about right for 4 degrees retarded.

J

Dean, pretty sure mine is set 4 notches back for 4 degrees (from memory), its a HKS one. yours looks advanced to me. If its retarded, the internal part of the gear should be rotated to the left, so the cam is set back from the center factory setting. By moving it to the right, it means the centre is forward, or advanced.

It is retarded. The pulley turns clockwise, and the cam that is attached is now lagging slightly behind the pulley, so everything happens just a bit later.

The pulley has 48 teeth which is 720 crankshaft degrees. Each tooth on the belt is fifteen crank degrees. If you look you will see it has been retarded about one third of a tooth. Pretty close to four degrees I would say.

It is retarded. The pulley turns clockwise, and the cam that is attached is now lagging slightly behind the pulley, so everything happens just a bit later.

The pulley has 48 teeth which is 720 crankshaft degrees. Each tooth on the belt is fifteen crank degrees. If you look you will see it has been retarded about one quarter to a third of a tooth. Pretty close to four degrees I would guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...