Jump to content
SAU Community

Speedo, Tacho And Windows Not Working

KerrodR33

By KerrodR33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

KerrodR33 Community Regular

KerrodR33

Posted
Posted

Removed my cluster last night and when I put it back in I have lost all my speedo, tacho, odo, temperature gauge readouts and to top it off, my power windows won't go up or down now. What could have caused this and are the windows connected to the dash somehow?? Cheers guys I would really like to fix this problem

Nanogrip Collaborator

Nanogrip

Posted
Posted

Could it be that the connection clips at the back of the cluster were not snapped back in correctly? If not, then spray a bit of electronics-safe lubricant at the back of the clips, then reconnect. For your power windows not working, I am unsure. Perhaps both are related or not. Is there a power window lock? Check for fuses as well, there is a fuse panel under the right of the steering wheel, and the others are in the trunk and under the bonnet.

KerrodR33 Community Regular

KerrodR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll try the spray and see if that works. Unfortunately can't try it until tomorrow as im on duty (army lol) and not allowed to work on my car. Which part of the clip do i spray? the back where the wires go into the connector or the part where the clip connects into the cluster?

For the window problem is there a certain fuse for the windows and which one would it be?

Cheers for the help

Nanogrip Collaborator

Nanogrip

Posted
Posted

I would spray very lightly on the whole clip on the wires connecting to the gauge set (not the back of the gauge set itself), and thus into the metal pins. Sometimes corrosion builds on the plugs and when we unplug the clip, creates an oxide insulator. Spraying also lubes things up so you can insert better, smoother, have moisture resistance, anti-corrosion, etc.

The fuse for windows are here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/207464-r33-series-1-fuse-box-layout-rb25det/

If fuse are still good, then maybe relay switch is the problem. Or wiring, or power window motor, or could be as simple as the switch being kaputting kulprit.

KerrodR33 Community Regular

KerrodR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers mate. What brand of spray is electrical safe? And which fuse would be the one for the power windows as there is no fuse just for the windows themselves? Maybe one of the two 'Electrics' labelled ones. And what is the fuse labeled 'meters' for? Is it a fuse for the gauges by any chance?

Cheers for the help. I'm happy my car is parked on the Army barracks as she is windows wide open ready for the taking in the street lol.

Nanogrip Collaborator

Nanogrip

Posted
Posted

Plain old WD40 is fine for electrical connections, as well as silicon spray, I go for whatever is cheaper. I haven't really gotten into the fuse boxes in my car yet so I cannot say for sure what those labels corresponds to (no electrical problems...................yet). But you can pull out each fuse and visually inspect for an open fuse or have a probe tester to check the conductivity of the fuses. I think it is a simple problem but let us know of your progress.

KerrodR33 Community Regular

KerrodR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so no luck yet. I tried all the methods above but the problem still exists lol so I am just going to take it into an auto elecy and get them to fix the problem. To me it sounds like a short circuit somewhere in the wiring causing me to lose both windows and gauges.

I'll keep you updated and hopefully if the problem can be found it might help someone else out in the future.

Cheers

Tony de Wonderful Veteran

Tony de Wonderful

Posted
Posted

Ok so no luck yet. I tried all the methods above but the problem still exists lol so I am just going to take it into an auto elecy and get them to fix the problem. To me it sounds like a short circuit somewhere in the wiring causing me to lose both windows and gauges.

I'll keep you updated and hopefully if the problem can be found it might help someone else out in the future.

Cheers

The two clips on the right of the cluster in the right way? That is to say in the right socket and the right way up? Both can go into either and can go in upside down. The clip on the left is the only one which you have to put in the right way up!

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...
HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted

BUMP

I've just lost my cluster and windows... anyone know what it might be?

I've checked all fuses, I've got some chewed wiring in the wheel arch which I haven't yet had a chance to fix properly, but I connected everything a bit ghetto-like and it didn't seem to help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • Duncan
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By Duncan · Posted

      It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • AdiR34
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • Duncan
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By Duncan · Posted

      So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
×
×
  • Create New...