Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've just bought an r32 and the low beams don't work, the parkers and high beams work fine.

So far I have checked the fuses, bulbs, pulled the switch apart and cleaned all the contacts, and have

tested to wiring using a multimeter.

I think the relay could be the problem cause when i turn the headlights on I don't hear a click but I'm

not sure if the parkers and high beams would still work if the relay was bad?

any ideas would be appreciated or if someone has a 32 near springwood that i could swap the relays

to check it that would be awesome.

cheers in advance

Corin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356224-r32-headlight-problem/
Share on other sites

My knowledge about Skyline lights is limited, if they are the dual filament type, it's possible the low beam filament have been burnt out (though would be strange having them both left and right at the same time)

cheers mate I will have a better look but at first glance I couldnt see any other relays that will fit, The weird thing is that the switch works to turn the parkers, and Ive pulled the switch apart and cleaned up all the contacts in there, does any know if the relay was bad would the parkers and high beams still work? cheers guys

the park lights are a seperate circuit to the high low beams.

which switch have you pulled apart?

the one on the dash cluster suround commonly fails.

but the high low dip stalk on the steering colum is very prone to ware. as are all 86-94 nissans. the contact arc up and creat an open circuit even when they are toutching. they are hard to clean up and not damage at the same time. they are carefully tensioned brass contacts and once bent out of shape are near imposible to fix.

ive never ever seen a relay fail in the head light circuit of a r32. but i havent worked on them all. so anythings possible.

Cheers mate

The switch I've pulled apart in the one in the cluster surround, I just cleaned up the contacts in there, I did this on my last r32 when one headlight was out and it fixed that.

I think I'll get a price for a new switch and relay. The only reason I suspect the relay is cause it doesn't make a click sound when I turn on the lights.

Thanks again

my wife is has this same problem with my R34 she just picked it up from nagoyamotors in sydney and she said the lows dont work but the highs do. idk about a clicking sound or not but im gonna aske her about it now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...