Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst - New Front Pads And Rotors - On A Budget

PuppaDuck

By PuppaDuck,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

PuppaDuck Collaborator

PuppaDuck

Posted
Posted

G'day SAUers.

I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask.

I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads.

Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front:

- DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair

- DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair

- Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set

- Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set

I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired.

Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details.

I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to.

Thanks SAU.

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
Posted

Wouldn't go cross-drilled as they have problems with cracking...

If you can't find DBA for the price you want maybe consider slotted RDAs?

As for pads check out GLSRallySport (or something like that) in the trader section.

The QFM HPX pads are reportedly better than Bendix Ultimates & only around $80 a set. Haven't tried them yet myself but will be very soon...

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted

I can attest to QFM HPX being excellent pads. Little to no noise (very rare occasions), very little dust, great pedal feel (not too much difference between hot/cold), they take a fair beating before fading - ample for most street driving.

SpeedWhore Collaborator

SpeedWhore

Posted
Posted

G'day SAUers.

I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask.

I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads.

Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front:

- DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair

- DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair

- Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set

- Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set

I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired.

Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details.

I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to.

Thanks SAU.

Look everyone has there own band wagons BUT a LARGE majority of the people in this forum use Yavuz at Uni Group Engineering. From what ive witnessed his a really nice bloke that will tell you straight up whats what and what can be done and what can be done on a budget or if itll need a bit more money then what you have.

I personally use the QFM A1FRM which have been really good to me but there more a TRACK and then a day to day pad because they dont like low temps.

Sid

FST513 Mentor

FST513

Posted
Posted

Stay away from cross-drilled rotors. They are fine for the street as they don't really get that hot, but any spirited driving/track activities will crack. There are multiple issues and threads over this etc...

If i could find dba 4000 slotted discs for under $320 for the pair i would be laughing! Cheapest i've seen is around $420 :(

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

+1 on RDA rotors and QFM pads. Surprised that no one has asked you what you do - just road driving, light course work or trackdays?

For road any of those options are probably ok. Don't forget that skylines are heavy beasts. They need lots of stopping power.

I run RDA slotted and QFM A1RM for street / Texi Days. For track days I swap out to Hawk Blue race pads. My first track day I cooked a set of EBC Reds that are supposed to be their high performance street / track pad. Aggro Dave did the same on Saturday - cost him a front bar and oil cooler.

So, in general get the right pad for the right type of driving you will be doing. Do NOT put race pads in for daily as they do take a little while to heat up and work properly. Lastly, I think RDA are good value as the better your pads are the more they will eat up rotors. Just a fact of life.

Little more than my 2 cents.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

check out Greg - GSL Rallysport - in our trader section :)

he does RDA's and QFM's

if you want more a track pad the QFM's are great on a budget, they also now have an uprated track pad

theyc also have the street pad HPX or something

hamiltonau Grand Master

hamiltonau

Posted
Posted

willing to go group buy on the QFMs, though i have had bendix ultimates in for about six months now and they have been fine (though i really should bleed the lines at some point..)

andymoocow Grand Master

andymoocow

Posted
Posted

G'day SAUers.

I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask.

I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads.

Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front:

- DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair

- DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair

- Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set

- Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set

I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired.

Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details.

I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to.

Thanks SAU.

I have a R33 GTST with 250rwkw that sees the track a few times a year and I run QFM A1RM pads and they are superb. Just about to get another set in a few weeks, happy to get them again. They are great for the street too, just need a few light stops to warm up.

I have a Mechanic who i have used for over 10 years in Artarmon, he is not a Skyline specialist but a top mechanic. For any tuning issues i see Yavuz from Unigroup but everything else my local mechanic gets the nod. If you want his details then drop me a PM.

Cheers.

Andrew

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

I'd pretty much agree with all of the above. I run the QFM & RDA combination as many do, however I'd also recommend braided brake lines - you'll be amazed at the difference in pedal feel. On an R34 I noticed very little adding a brake cylinder stopper (as above), but that may be different on earlier models.

hamiltonau Grand Master

hamiltonau

Posted
Posted

Orly?

getting one of these cylinder stoppy things tonight, hope it makes a difference as i have been waiting on it for a while.

keep hearing about this unigroup guy, is the place waaaay out west though? been using IS racing in rockdale now and then, im sure there good but a little exxy. was eighty bucks just to pump some smoke through and look for a boost leak.

it was found and i drove out to a guy he recommended, skyline parts in wetherill park who fitted a new hose etc for fifty bucks!

went to the track day, turned boost up and same high pitched whine and now only 0.75 bar instead of .9. sigh

sorry if off topic.

at least 3 of us in here getting QF pads soon then, enough for a group buy?>? :P

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

you dont need a group buy - Greg from GSL rally sport has them at good prices

see the trader/business forum here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/217-sau-trader-gsl-rallysport-promotions/

p.s. yes braided lines are good!

had them on my r33 also which was mostly a street car with a few track days - although the mx5 has to have them with the class its built to

so yeah, get them too!

DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

Yavuz would be 45mins-1hr tops from the centre of Sydney mate. Hardly a long way when you think about it, he will have the car for at least a day anyway and is about 5mins from girraween station.

Well worth it IMO.

hamiltonau Grand Master

hamiltonau

Posted
Posted

ok thanks dave and other evil guy, will look into it for sure.

passenger in my car said it didnt sound exactly like a boost leak so might need a professional to look at it anyway

apparently a lot of time for part timers at tracks is in the braking, like most of it. good pads and lines could help just a tad..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...