Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hoping someone can shed some light on how the rears of these go together...

Ive got 2 full sets of circlip height adjustable shocks, Koni Yellows and a set of Agreves....

The fronts no issue...the rears im confused about how they go together...

The Konis came with 2 flat nuts for securing the top hat...I didnt click to start with as to why they came with 2 nuts and originally used 1 nylon nut, mounted the strut up in the caronly to realise that the shock was not working and the car was just bouncing around on the spring....pulled them apart and after some thought, I put one flat nut under the top hat and another nut on top, locking it in place...job done...seemed to work fine beside bottoming out due to it being too low on the lowest circlip setting...

My question is, why do these aftermarket shocks require a nut either side of the factory top hat? I just cannot figure it out, ive used these same springs with factory strut/shocks and not had a problem...

Hoping someone can shed some light on this!!!

Anyone got any ideas, ive spoken to my mechanic and even he cant explain it...just doesnt make sense...they are, in theory, a direct replacement using the factory top hats so im lost as to what could be causing this to happen...

I tried the Agreves in there yesterday and it did the same thing...assembled the spring/shock, all seemed fine, spring was held in place nicely, fitted the spring/shock assembly up to the car, lowered it down and bounced it around...you can see the shaft of the shock moving up through the top hat? Why? The factory setup only has one nut on top!

You need to secure the shaft of the shock absorber to the mount. To do so you can either bolt it top & bottom or use a collar underneath & a nut on top.

As to why - the shock will have gas pressure in it which extends the shaft. So when you push down on the car without the shaft being secured the spring compresses & the shaft doesn't. Hence the shock doesnt function.

Edited by djr81

Cheers mate, so the factory assemblies have a collar? From inspection, they dont?

As I posted up top, we used the 2 nut method on the Konis and they work fine, as or the other set, well, theres not enough threaded section to use a nut either side of the top hat as well as the rubber bush and washer required on the top side...where would the collar secure to?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I couldn't agree more. As an owner of a built high HP skyline, I'd be a hypocrite to not buy a Hummer for the reasons you listed though haha. 
    • Hahaha oh shit! Again!
    • Is this the one? https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2192&rewrite=nissan-stagea-c34-rear-boot-actuator-assembly-90550-0v000 Might be worth having a look at yahoo japan as well. Though it seems a bit odd. If the motor works itself, other than being noisy, then wouldn't it be more likely that it's an electrical issue somewhere else? And it being noisy does not seem as surprising if it has been chugging away for months  
    • I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
    • Lolololol maybe, man I hate this car. Lapsed judgement a respray and a new motor, when I should have just scrapped the lot when I had the chance. Farken.
×
×
  • Create New...