Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

so i have an r33 and i put a new battery and it hasnt been turned on for like 3 days and now the car dosent want to start as if the battery was dead, ive ripped out my head unit speakers etc all electrics and even the globes inside the car and boot but still the same thing.

just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to do??

thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356588-r33-problem/
Share on other sites

Make sure the terminals are properly connected I freaked first day I got my car had taken a couple of people for a ride then it wouldnt start went through the alarm system and everything turne out the terminal wasnt on properly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356588-r33-problem/#findComment-5715061
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

yee i heard about the alarm thingy for a couple of people, if worst comes then im just gonna remove the alarm.

i havent tried the bump start it yet as im waiting for new cooler pipes so hopefully i can work something out when i get them.

i bought a brand new century battery when i first got it so ye, pretty trippy. i think im just gonna disconnect the battery fully in the future.

thanks for the tips guys :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356588-r33-problem/#findComment-5773791
Share on other sites

How do they do that? is it the immobilizer light thing?

I think its something to do with having to send constant signals to all the sensors.

If you go with a new battery, there's a parts shop in Sydney call Peps, who have these new sealed battery's for under $100.

I drive my car once a month in a good year and have been using one of these, with a $10 solar charger and has been fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356588-r33-problem/#findComment-5775517
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...