Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i work in a holden dealership (don't give me shit it's a good place to work and learn) but i've been having some trouble with a guy that's giving me constant shit about rb's and their oil pumps. and i mean constant. multiple times a day. he has a hsv clubsport (vx) so another guy that works there gives him shit about the gen 3 engine using engine oil. he has a track car that he drifts at mallala which is a soarer with a 1J in it and i need some thing to give him shit about specific to 1j and 2j engines. i know they are a great engine but i prefer RB's. any help? anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356589-1j-and-2j-engine-flaws/
Share on other sites

You want something bad about 1/2J's?

Hahaha, yeah.........good luck with that buddy.

The 2J and to a lesser extent the 1J are easily known throughout car communities around the world as some of the, if not "the" toughest Japanese tuner motor.

Solution? Tell the other guys to get back to work.

IMHO

The one 1J/2J has an inherint problem with their starter relay. You wont find one that has not encounterd intermittent and then total failure. WONT START!

I laugh at the number of Supra folk that replace starter motors, fuel pumps, ignition, wiring, relays, and even disable/remove/replace their immobiliser and all manner of things. BUT there is a cheap $30 and complete fix !!!! that I wont elaborate on because I own an R32 GTR!!! ......

Now with a NITTO oil pump and full engine rebuild due to not knowing the achillies heal of my GTR at time of purchase.

Supra = straight line and cheaper to buy kw's. Add a few corners and the tide turns - Dramatically!

IMHO

The one 1J/2J has an inherint problem with their starter relay. You wont find one that has not encounterd intermittent and then total failure. WONT START!

I laugh at the number of Supra folk that replace starter motors, fuel pumps, ignition, wiring, relays, and even disable/remove/replace their immobiliser and all manner of things. BUT there is a cheap $30 and complete fix !!!! that I wont elaborate on because I own an R32 GTR!!! ......

Now with a NITTO oil pump and full engine rebuild due to not knowing the achillies heal of my GTR at time of purchase.

Supra = straight line and cheaper to buy kw's. Add a few corners and the tide turns - Dramatically!

Bad news! Mines never, ever done that. Its been nothing but perfect in almost 4 years whereas the GTR has not if you put them side by side.

Also they dont turn corners well? Yeah not the ones slammed on 20's (same goes for GTR's though) but there are Supras out there that would surprise a GTR owner at how well they go. On this forum i wouldnt expect people to understand. As an example i had mine out on the weekend through National Park (lots of corners) with an MX5 owner in the passenger seat who always uses grippy tyres etc whereas my Supra is on cheat shit. He was shocked at how well it went. Also there's 2 other regulars on here (one 400kw GTR owner, one ex GTR owner) and both say the same about Supras now after being in a good one.

Sorry but ive owned both now for quite a while and the Supra has been flawless.

Sucks to hear that on a skyline site I know :)

  • Nope 1

yea the 1j and 2j are pritty bullet proof motors man, if only nissan designed em and they came in the gtr. One thing the Rb has better is looks. the Rb26 looks heaps better thant he 2J in my eyes

Just start talking about his mother? Seems like the mature solution to me.

1JZ sound like vacuum cleaners in standard guise...and they are a bitch to work on, especially the rear turbo...other than that, pretty much flawless.

You're asking on the wrong website though. Check out some Toyota forums and search for common problems / faults.

  • Nope 1

Just start talking about his mother? Seems like the mature solution to me.

1JZ sound like vacuum cleaners in standard guise...and they are a bitch to work on, especially the rear turbo...other than that, pretty much flawless.

You're asking on the wrong website though. Check out some Toyota forums and search for common problems / faults.

I might have to resort to insulting his birthgiver. Or tell him I have no problem with Toyota. My grandpa, dad and mum are all very happy :)

IMHO

The one 1J/2J has an inherint problem with their starter relay. You wont find one that has not encounterd intermittent and then total failure. WONT START!

I laugh at the number of Supra folk that replace starter motors, fuel pumps, ignition, wiring, relays, and even disable/remove/replace their immobiliser and all manner of things. BUT there is a cheap $30 and complete fix !!!! that I wont elaborate on because I own an R32 GTR!!! ......

Now with a NITTO oil pump and full engine rebuild due to not knowing the achillies heal of my GTR at time of purchase.

Supra = straight line and cheaper to buy kw's. Add a few corners and the tide turns - Dramatically!

Bahahahaha. My Supra used to start so quick when it was stone cold, absolutely instantly. The GTR on the other hand, takes some convincing.

Supra can't take corners? LOL. Imbecile.

  • Nope 1

The head is inferior to the RB26.

Port sizing and rev's etc.

You are also comparing a 3.0 L in the case of a 2J to a 2.6 L

you cant fault the toyota bottom end.

But there is a reason that people put the 1j head on the 2J block...

They have a f**king shithouse turbo arrangement.

and whilst in many cases being much newer then a GT-R are still slower around a track.

To be honest you should probably not bother yourself with talking shit, just blow him away when it comes to put your money where your mouth is.

^^^Love the sig, so valid for this thread hahaha :D

Why is the 26 head inferior to the 2J head? The numbers a stock 2J head will do is nothing short of crazy.

Here's a fair fight, 1995, skip to the end thats what matters;

There's even another BMI vid there with a 32 vs Supra, same track and while the 32 comes second last and the Supra is last (the turbo AWD's were in that race), the 32 did a 1.08.75 but the Supra did a 1.08.00

Good point on the 1J heads on 2J bottoms, id love to know why they do that other than money. The people ive spoken to that are in that community have mainly all said its due to the 1J's being quite old now, and 2J bottom ends being so reliable and cheap its a simple and cheap fix plus they get a bit more capacity at the same time, so in that respect its sort of like a skyline owner and an rb30

  • Nope 1

Only flaw I know of with 2J's is that their harmonic balancers explode due to age. The sealant holding the balancer together lets go and they go BOOM.

Only common problem that I know of. But yeah as has been said, 2J is the best for a reason.

Why is it exactly that Supras are referred to as being 'shit around the track'

Youd think that going on forum-talk alone, that it should be considerably better than say a GTST or GTT, and provided it had good grip.. better than a rb26?

Is it just noone sets them up for cornering, etc? Or are there other issues and things 'wrong' with the Supra that GTT's/GTR's can best it 'easily', or is it just forum bias lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also sorry to hear this @DanielStone - I remember @SmoothLine well, he was around for a very long time and was one of the original members of this site.  God Speed Matt. Thoughts with his family and friends.
    • Nice car! Looking at your GTS; makes me wonder why I bought a GTS-t... Everything has been changed anyway. I should have just started with a non turbo model.
    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
×
×
  • Create New...