Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright Captain Ahab,

Before you go on, go do some reading, because obviously you don't know what your f**king talking about.

Come back, apologize to zebra, and then apologize to the world for 'trying' to race a yacht.

Back On topic.

Personally not a fan of the sound of the J engine, have heard a few nice ones though, its all swings and roundabouts.

There are one or two very nice handling Supras, but , well that's my point there are one or two LOL.

And Birds if your going to the expense and trouble of building a hybrid, you wouldn't leave a worse performing head on it.

:D

the 2jz have a totally different exhaust note to the 1j and any rb. 1j and rb sound very much the same and are impossible to disinguish between. i have absolutely no idea why. people use the word "gurble" to describe the 2jz note. the supra gurble. i have heard that supras have pressure inside the cam covers. not 100% bout this but that would add to the sound.

It's really not that expensive if your car already has the 2jz bottom end in it. The biggest expense in a 1.5jz conversion is getting a 2jz block to fit in a 1jz engine bay...engine sits up much higher. As has been said, the difference between a 1jz head and 2jz head is very minor...

A car that makes 510 kw at the wheels thats almost 700hp. Can you convert that to FLYWHEEL ENGINE POWER. Its very close to a 1000 because its going through a automatic tranmission you will need to add about 20% on that drivetrain loss so as you can seethe head is more than capable of FLOWING over a 1000hp. Dont confuse that with rear wheel horspower.

Also as far as me being DAFT i know the RB30 is a single cam head. I just used it as an example as to why people use hybrids.

And saying a head has CC ratings is stupid.

We only recently had another yarn about using solid percentages for drivetrain losses. If your transmission was sucking up 300hp (<<what you're saying) it would be melting by final gear. I know of at least one thread with pages of debate over it, and apparently there are more here as well.

But in relation to car/engine point scoring, here's how it works for me: MY car gives ME a hard on knowing it's sitting in MY driveway. I drive MY car around and I feel good. I take MY car around corners, and that feels good to ME as well.. My point is, I don't care what anyone else thinks. If that mattered so much, I'd be driving a VE SS with 20" black and chrome rims. << And swallowing the vomit in my mouth everytime I see it in the driveway.

If personality wasn't a factor, there would be one manufacturer out there making 5 cars. A small hatch, a sedan, a ute, a wagon, and a 4x4. All in the same colour.

Edited by GTRPowa
  • Like 2

the 2jz have a totally different exhaust note to the 1j and any rb. 1j and rb sound very much the same and are impossible to disinguish between. i have absolutely no idea why. people use the word "gurble" to describe the 2jz note. the supra gurble. i have heard that supras have pressure inside the cam covers. not 100% bout this but that would add to the sound.

Disagree there. The RB's do sound different to the JZ, totally different note. Listen to a 26 and then a 25, they sound different, even the 32GTR's sound different to the 34GTR's, let alone a 1JZ. Unless you may be tone deaf lol. I did hear an xr6 turbo once that sounded like a big jap RB engine though.......

The only thing in common is the firing order, number of cylinders, twin cams etc.

Types of metal used, Port shape, combustion chamber shape, turbo, exhaust, manifolds, tuning and cams is what gives an engine it's noise signature.

i shud have been clearer. i mean if they all had a single with tuned length mani. my xr6t used to sound like shit, but when i got a 6boost it sounded awesome. but a supra with a single will always sound different. my xr sounds just like an angry rb. LOTS of lift with the stock cams. supras with singles more like the r35 gtr. no idea why.

Edited by mico

i have heard that supras have pressure inside the cam covers. not 100% bout this but that would add to the sound.

What do you mean by that?

Your talking about the Harmonic Balancer El Daveo?

I must check mine...got a bit of a vibration at idle and I dont know if the exhaust vibrating or the balancer.

Only flaw I know of with 2J's is that their harmonic balancers explode due to age. The sealant holding the balancer together lets go and they go BOOM.

What do you mean by that?

yer it actually sounds like a load of crap. i was talkin to some guy who built his na into a turbo and he told me the cam covers are pressurised. i cant find any info on it ....

Edited by mico

We only recently had another yarn about using solid percentages for drivetrain losses. If your transmission was sucking up 300hp (<<what you're saying) it would be melting by final gear. I know of at least one thread with pages of debate over it, and apparently there are more here as well.

But in relation to car/engine point scoring, here's how it works for me: MY car gives ME a hard on knowing it's sitting in MY driveway. I drive MY car around and I feel good. I take MY car around corners, and that feels good to ME as well.. My point is, I don't care what anyone else thinks. If that mattered so much, I'd be driving a VE SS with 20" black and chrome rims. << And swallowing the vomit in my mouth everytime I see it in the driveway.

If personality wasn't a factor, there would be one manufacturer out there making 5 cars. A small hatch, a sedan, a ute, a wagon, and a 4x4. All in the same colour.

That's the general consensus, drive-train loss exists but isn't a magic percentage or number, it's different to each car. If %20 were the golden rule, how long would a 8000hp top fueler drive-train last if it's losing 1600hp through the drive-train???

And well put! Alot of people don't seem to understand this.

Drivetrain loss has been discussed to death on these forums! Please let's not go there AGAIN.

yer it actually sounds like a load of crap. i was talkin to some guy who built his na into a turbo and he told me the cam covers are pressurised. i cant find any info on it ....

Lol sounds like he didn't have a one way valve fitted on his breather going into the cam covers and therefore under boost it was getting pressurised.

It's really not that expensive if your car already has the 2jz bottom end in it. The biggest expense in a 1.5jz conversion is getting a 2jz block to fit in a 1jz engine bay...engine sits up much higher. As has been said, the difference between a 1jz head and 2jz head is very minor...

Thats what I thought, i.e 1.5JZ in an N/A Soarer, Lexus GS300 or Lexus IS300.

Makes sense and would make great power for relatively little coin.

And Rowan is right Saorer owners love the cawk.

Edited by Hank Scorpio

I know this is a thread about the JZ engines so i'll give my personal experiences...i know they are meant to be bulletproof but i must say that my supra has given me its fair share of engine related dramas over the past 2 years...everything from blown headgaskets to a spun bearing...luck of the draw i guess...apparently the previous owner didn't really take care of the engine...but my new wrecker engine has been behaving well so far...

On a seperate note...and this is car related...stop calling the supra a boat...its not that bad...as N1GTR pointed out in that youtube clip...stock vs stock it got ahead of a r33gtr...so it can't be that bad...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
    • *waits* for chop idle videos and TT kit hanging off the motor. I like these sounds now, my inner bogan is growing.    
    • Want to buy a good running Rb20det in Sydney preferably complete or long block 
×
×
  • Create New...