Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey - yeah sorry for the delays..... We bought a house, and have moved twice since my last post. Just moved into our new house last Friday so i'll get back into it in the near future.... My car is in a shed now off the street, so I tinker with it again without having to worry about getting hit by cars etc. Although, all my electronic test equipment and tools are still over on Kangaroo Island at the moment so prolly can't do much till I get it all over here sometime in the next couple of weeks...

Jeff

  • 4 weeks later...

Maybe someone can help me out. My 32R dash has ABS and 4WD lights on that didn't go away with a reservoir flush and fluid top up. The mechanic reckons its an error 11 or 13 which is consitant with what I've read hear.

I took the centre console G-sensor out this morning had a look at it however there doesn't appear to any leakage on the PCB. What should I do next? I don't mind taking it to an auto electrician but I don't want to pay through the nose for a 50cent capacitor and 10seconds of soldering. I split my time between the Central Coast and Sydney BTW so any recommended autoelecs?

I'va attached pics of what my G-sensor looks like-

post-89522-0-48385100-1324084516_thumb.jpg

post-89522-0-99900000-1324084603_thumb.jpg

Maybe someone can help me out. My 32R dash has ABS and 4WD lights on that didn't go away with a reservoir flush and fluid top up. The mechanic reckons its an error 11 or 13 which is consitant with what I've read hear.

I took the centre console G-sensor out this morning had a look at it however there doesn't appear to any leakage on the PCB. What should I do next? I don't mind taking it to an auto electrician but I don't want to pay through the nose for a 50cent capacitor and 10seconds of soldering. I split my time between the Central Coast and Sydney BTW so any recommended autoelecs?

I'va attached pics of what my G-sensor looks like-

Hey,

If i ever get my butt into gear and finish this new replacement I would point you towards that. However, in the meantime, take a look at my first post in this forum. The caps don't look like they have leaked ( bit too fuzzy to say for sure). I would try adjusting the pots and see how that goes. The procedure is very simple - all you need is a multimeter and a little screwdriver.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, I'll buy a multimeter this week and detail what results. I only removed the G-sensor under the sensor console, is there a chance the lateral G-sensor has crapped itself and results in the ABS & 4WD lights being on? If so I'll take that one out and look for capacitor leakage.

Echoing words of previous members I'm very keen to see a replacement G-sensor for these cars, I looked at a handful of gtrs in my price range (<$15,000) before buying mine and they all had the ABS and 4WD lights on!

Looking forward to more developments and having a proper Gt-r.

I now have an automotive multimeter and plan to do the voltage drop test described on page one. I haven't done this test before and want to be clear on some things relating to the picture Jeff posted with the instructions. The picture of the G-sensor circuit board on page one has three yellow circles, when 'adjusting the pots' in red circles I have the black lead of the multimeter on a single yellow circled point for each adjustment. Please correct me if I'm mistaken

What I am confused about is the description "voltage between the car body and three yellow pins", does the multimeters red wire attach to the car body, essentially grounding it or to the positive terminal of the battery as I anticipated?

I'd like to do the adjustment in the next couple of days so let me know

I now have an automotive multimeter and plan to do the voltage drop test described on page one. I haven't done this test before and want to be clear on some things relating to the picture Jeff posted with the instructions. The picture of the G-sensor circuit board on page one has three yellow circles, when 'adjusting the pots' in red circles I have the black lead of the multimeter on a single yellow circled point for each adjustment. Please correct me if I'm mistaken

What I am confused about is the description "voltage between the car body and three yellow pins", does the multimeters red wire attach to the car body, essentially grounding it or to the positive terminal of the battery as I anticipated?

I'd like to do the adjustment in the next couple of days so let me know

Hey, here is a more detailed procedure:

1.) Move your car to a LEVEL sport - **important**

2.) Connect to the black wire from the multimeter to the car body (Car body is ground - negative battery terminal is connected to it)

3.) Set the multimeter to measure "VOLTAGE" with a range of say 0~5 volts (or the next highest setting)

4.) Make sure your G-Sensor is plugged into the car and bolted down as from the factory but with the cover removed

5.) Start the car. Make sure the handbrake is on lol.

6.) Take the red positive wire from the multimeter and hold it *****CAREFULLY****** on one of the yellow pins (note there are three colours on the picture: Red = pots, Orange = capacitors, yellow = test points)

7.) Adjust one of the pots (I'm sorry I forget which pot corresponds with each test point - just use trial and error) so that the test point reads 2.50volts

8.) Repeat step 7.) for the remaining two test points.

9.) IMPORTANT!! After all the pots are adjusted turn the car off and restart it - ***re-measure the test points again to confirm they are all 2.50volts

10.) Turn the car off and restart - you should no longer have a G-Sensor error.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

Thanks your intructions made it very easy. The problem is though that the lights are still there. before adjusting the voltages they were all over the place (2.03-2.85), after a bit of fiddling I got them within a 2.50V ballpark (2.48-2.52), i wanted 2.50v exactly but the values keep oscillating evening when I wasn't adjusting the pots.

Is it time to adjust the lateral G-sensor under the dash or should I try and get 2.50V from the central sensor?

The funny thing is though after turning the engine on the ABS and 4WD lights went off for 1-2seconds then came back on. odd

Any advice will be appreciated I'm starting to think that I should stuck with carburetter cars

Thanks your intructions made it very easy. The problem is though that the lights are still there. before adjusting the voltages they were all over the place (2.03-2.85), after a bit of fiddling I got them within a 2.50V ballpark (2.48-2.52), i wanted 2.50v exactly but the values keep oscillating evening when I wasn't adjusting the pots.

Is it time to adjust the lateral G-sensor under the dash or should I try and get 2.50V from the central sensor?

The funny thing is though after turning the engine on the ABS and 4WD lights went off for 1-2seconds then came back on. odd

Any advice will be appreciated I'm starting to think that I should stuck with carburettor cars

Two interesting points here.....

1.) When you say the value was oscillating - what was the range is was cycling between ?

2.) Is the 4WD light off for a longer time than it was before you adjusted the pots ? (May indicate the system needs bleeding...)

**Check the computer in the boot now and see what code it is flashing. (Very easy - or if you are not sure have a quick search on this forum) Hopefully it is something other than the G-Sensor now....

Regards,

Jeff

I had another go today and got 2.5V for all of them, to no avail. Will tomorrow do further diagnostics.

To answer the above questions

1) it was oscilating between 2.48-2.53 ish, this only happend when the engine was running, I presume due to vibration? I was able to get 2.5 exaclty by having the ignition on all the way before kicking the starter motor over

2) the lights are off longer than before (subjective opinion) , but still come on, Bastards!

Will keep y'all posted if I make any developments.

I had another go today and got 2.5V for all of them, to no avail. Will tomorrow do further diagnostics.

To answer the above questions

1) it was oscilating between 2.48-2.53 ish, this only happend when the engine was running, I presume due to vibration? I was able to get 2.5 exaclty by having the ignition on all the way before kicking the starter motor over

2) the lights are off longer than before (subjective opinion) , but still come on, Bastards!

Will keep y'all posted if I make any developments.

Yeah next step is to check the computer in the boot and see what code it is now flashing out.

Jeff

Ok so I've just ran the ATTESSA diagnostics for the computer in the boot and got error codes 11 & 13; 11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G senstor 2.

Can anyone suggest what I should do next? I have adjusted the voltages in the G-sensor underneath the centre console(all within coohee of 2.5V), is there a second G-sensor that needs adjusting, it has been referred to in other posts on SAU that there is one behind the dash/glove box.

This is becomming very frustrating!

I have also read on SAU that adjusting the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) voltages, and cleaning/checking each wheels ABS sensor may correct the problem, does anyone have experience with these methods?

Thanks in advance

James, I think most of us have the same issue with the G Sensor (codes 11 & 13).

I've tried Jeff's fix, it does work... only temporarily tho.

I think our only salvation is if he builds a new PCB. Sit tight.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not an electronics tech, but even though the caps aren't leaking, is it possible they have lost their capacitance.

Spot on...

Jeff

Edited by datsun_1600

AHA! So thats a potential reason why I still get error 11 or 13 after adjusting the pots to 2.5V.

I have the G-sensor out and would like to take it to someone with a clue on how to fix these things/check the capacitors. Any recomendations? autoelectricians, computer technicians, Jeff......?

I split my time between Sydney and the Central Coast and any reference to helpful/experienced people would be great!

AHA! So thats a potential reason why I still get error 11 or 13 after adjusting the pots to 2.5V.

I have the G-sensor out and would like to take it to someone with a clue on how to fix these things/check the capacitors. Any recomendations? autoelectricians, computer technicians, Jeff......?

I split my time between Sydney and the Central Coast and any reference to helpful/experienced people would be great!

Take it to an electronics repair place. eg. T.V. repairer.

Well I replaced the caps and set all outputs to 2.5v, it seems partially better. I'm still getting the ABS and 4wd lights on every now and then.

Mines throwing a code 16.

Strange thing is, if I start the car and immediately let the clutch out and start moving, the lights stay out and 4wd is working. As soon as I stop and idle the lights come back on with code 16 again??????

A friend is loaning me his G sensor to try.

Edited by countryhick

In case anyone needs more pics or to see how i fixed my G force sensor and what my problems were see the link below, i posted at another forum im a member of that has a electronic subsection, you may need to reg to view the pics though.

http://www.austech.info/electronics/68309-gtr-gforce-sensor-fix-help.html

It been working fine for a week now, just a burnt out Cap that cost 38 cents.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all the replies fellas. Gonna finish putting it back together and see how it handles the set up. If it starts pinging it’ll be parked.
    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
×
×
  • Create New...