R32 Gtr G Sensor Fix

[datsun_1600]

Hey - yeah sorry for the delays..... We bought a house, and have moved twice since my last post. Just moved into our new house last Friday so i'll get back into it in the near future.... My car is in a shed now off the street, so I tinker with it again without having to worry about getting hit by cars etc. Although, all my electronic test equipment and tools are still over on Kangaroo Island at the moment so prolly can't do much till I get it all over here sometime in the next couple of weeks...

Jeff

[Gt-r_James]

Maybe someone can help me out. My 32R dash has ABS and 4WD lights on that didn't go away with a reservoir flush and fluid top up. The mechanic reckons its an error 11 or 13 which is consitant with what I've read hear.

I took the centre console G-sensor out this morning had a look at it however there doesn't appear to any leakage on the PCB. What should I do next? I don't mind taking it to an auto electrician but I don't want to pay through the nose for a 50cent capacitor and 10seconds of soldering. I split my time between the Central Coast and Sydney BTW so any recommended autoelecs?

I'va attached pics of what my G-sensor looks like-

[datsun_1600]

Maybe someone can help me out. My 32R dash has ABS and 4WD lights on that didn't go away with a reservoir flush and fluid top up. The mechanic reckons its an error 11 or 13 which is consitant with what I've read hear.

I took the centre console G-sensor out this morning had a look at it however there doesn't appear to any leakage on the PCB. What should I do next? I don't mind taking it to an auto electrician but I don't want to pay through the nose for a 50cent capacitor and 10seconds of soldering. I split my time between the Central Coast and Sydney BTW so any recommended autoelecs?

I'va attached pics of what my G-sensor looks like-

Hey,

If i ever get my butt into gear and finish this new replacement I would point you towards that. However, in the meantime, take a look at my first post in this forum. The caps don't look like they have leaked ( bit too fuzzy to say for sure). I would try adjusting the pots and see how that goes. The procedure is very simple - all you need is a multimeter and a little screwdriver.

Jeff

[Gt-r_James]

Thanks Jeff, I'll buy a multimeter this week and detail what results. I only removed the G-sensor under the sensor console, is there a chance the lateral G-sensor has crapped itself and results in the ABS & 4WD lights being on? If so I'll take that one out and look for capacitor leakage.

Echoing words of previous members I'm very keen to see a replacement G-sensor for these cars, I looked at a handful of gtrs in my price range (<$15,000) before buying mine and they all had the ABS and 4WD lights on!

Looking forward to more developments and having a proper Gt-r.

[Gt-r_James]

I now have an automotive multimeter and plan to do the voltage drop test described on page one. I haven't done this test before and want to be clear on some things relating to the picture Jeff posted with the instructions. The picture of the G-sensor circuit board on page one has three yellow circles, when 'adjusting the pots' in red circles I have the black lead of the multimeter on a single yellow circled point for each adjustment. Please correct me if I'm mistaken

What I am confused about is the description "voltage between the car body and three yellow pins", does the multimeters red wire attach to the car body, essentially grounding it or to the positive terminal of the battery as I anticipated?

I'd like to do the adjustment in the next couple of days so let me know

[datsun_1600]

I now have an automotive multimeter and plan to do the voltage drop test described on page one. I haven't done this test before and want to be clear on some things relating to the picture Jeff posted with the instructions. The picture of the G-sensor circuit board on page one has three yellow circles, when 'adjusting the pots' in red circles I have the black lead of the multimeter on a single yellow circled point for each adjustment. Please correct me if I'm mistaken

What I am confused about is the description "voltage between the car body and three yellow pins", does the multimeters red wire attach to the car body, essentially grounding it or to the positive terminal of the battery as I anticipated?

I'd like to do the adjustment in the next couple of days so let me know

Hey, here is a more detailed procedure:

1.) Move your car to a LEVEL sport - **important**

2.) Connect to the black wire from the multimeter to the car body (Car body is ground - negative battery terminal is connected to it)

3.) Set the multimeter to measure "VOLTAGE" with a range of say 0~5 volts (or the next highest setting)

4.) Make sure your G-Sensor is plugged into the car and bolted down as from the factory but with the cover removed

5.) Start the car. Make sure the handbrake is on lol.

6.) Take the red positive wire from the multimeter and hold it *****CAREFULLY****** on one of the yellow pins (note there are three colours on the picture: Red = pots, Orange = capacitors, yellow = test points)

7.) Adjust one of the pots (I'm sorry I forget which pot corresponds with each test point - just use trial and error) so that the test point reads 2.50volts

8.) Repeat step 7.) for the remaining two test points.

9.) IMPORTANT!! After all the pots are adjusted turn the car off and restart it - ***re-measure the test points again to confirm they are all 2.50volts

10.) Turn the car off and restart - you should no longer have a G-Sensor error.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

[Gt-r_James]

Thanks your intructions made it very easy. The problem is though that the lights are still there. before adjusting the voltages they were all over the place (2.03-2.85), after a bit of fiddling I got them within a 2.50V ballpark (2.48-2.52), i wanted 2.50v exactly but the values keep oscillating evening when I wasn't adjusting the pots.

Is it time to adjust the lateral G-sensor under the dash or should I try and get 2.50V from the central sensor?

The funny thing is though after turning the engine on the ABS and 4WD lights went off for 1-2seconds then came back on. odd

Any advice will be appreciated I'm starting to think that I should stuck with carburetter cars

[Gt-r_James]

Just realised that the G-sensor under the centre console is the 'lateral G-sensor' so ignore aspects of previous post.

[datsun_1600]

Thanks your intructions made it very easy. The problem is though that the lights are still there. before adjusting the voltages they were all over the place (2.03-2.85), after a bit of fiddling I got them within a 2.50V ballpark (2.48-2.52), i wanted 2.50v exactly but the values keep oscillating evening when I wasn't adjusting the pots.

Is it time to adjust the lateral G-sensor under the dash or should I try and get 2.50V from the central sensor?

The funny thing is though after turning the engine on the ABS and 4WD lights went off for 1-2seconds then came back on. odd

Any advice will be appreciated I'm starting to think that I should stuck with carburettor cars

Two interesting points here.....

1.) When you say the value was oscillating - what was the range is was cycling between ?

2.) Is the 4WD light off for a longer time than it was before you adjusted the pots ? (May indicate the system needs bleeding...)

**Check the computer in the boot now and see what code it is flashing. (Very easy - or if you are not sure have a quick search on this forum) Hopefully it is something other than the G-Sensor now....

Regards,

Jeff

[Gt-r_James]

I had another go today and got 2.5V for all of them, to no avail. Will tomorrow do further diagnostics.

To answer the above questions

1) it was oscilating between 2.48-2.53 ish, this only happend when the engine was running, I presume due to vibration? I was able to get 2.5 exaclty by having the ignition on all the way before kicking the starter motor over

2) the lights are off longer than before (subjective opinion) , but still come on, Bastards!

Will keep y'all posted if I make any developments.

[datsun_1600]

I had another go today and got 2.5V for all of them, to no avail. Will tomorrow do further diagnostics.

To answer the above questions

1) it was oscilating between 2.48-2.53 ish, this only happend when the engine was running, I presume due to vibration? I was able to get 2.5 exaclty by having the ignition on all the way before kicking the starter motor over

2) the lights are off longer than before (subjective opinion) , but still come on, Bastards!

Will keep y'all posted if I make any developments.

Yeah next step is to check the computer in the boot and see what code it is now flashing out.

Jeff

[Gt-r_James]

Ok so I've just ran the ATTESSA diagnostics for the computer in the boot and got error codes 11 & 13; 11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G senstor 2.

Can anyone suggest what I should do next? I have adjusted the voltages in the G-sensor underneath the centre console(all within coohee of 2.5V), is there a second G-sensor that needs adjusting, it has been referred to in other posts on SAU that there is one behind the dash/glove box.

This is becomming very frustrating!

I have also read on SAU that adjusting the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) voltages, and cleaning/checking each wheels ABS sensor may correct the problem, does anyone have experience with these methods?

Thanks in advance

[xiaorpowr]

James, I think most of us have the same issue with the G Sensor (codes 11 & 13).

I've tried Jeff's fix, it does work... only temporarily tho.

I think our only salvation is if he builds a new PCB. Sit tight.

[countryhick]

Have you other guys replaced the caps or just adjusted the pots??

[xiaorpowr]

Have you other guys replaced the caps or just adjusted the pots??

I only adjusted the pots, my caps weren't leaking

[countryhick]

I'm not an electronics tech, but even though the caps aren't leaking, is it possible they have lost their capacitance.

I only adjusted the pots, my caps weren't leaking

[datsun_1600]

I'm not an electronics tech, but even though the caps aren't leaking, is it possible they have lost their capacitance.

Spot on...

Jeff

Edited January 20, 2012 by datsun_1600

[Gt-r_James2]

AHA! So thats a potential reason why I still get error 11 or 13 after adjusting the pots to 2.5V.

I have the G-sensor out and would like to take it to someone with a clue on how to fix these things/check the capacitors. Any recomendations? autoelectricians, computer technicians, Jeff......?

I split my time between Sydney and the Central Coast and any reference to helpful/experienced people would be great!

[countryhick]

AHA! So thats a potential reason why I still get error 11 or 13 after adjusting the pots to 2.5V.

I have the G-sensor out and would like to take it to someone with a clue on how to fix these things/check the capacitors. Any recomendations? autoelectricians, computer technicians, Jeff......?

I split my time between Sydney and the Central Coast and any reference to helpful/experienced people would be great!

Take it to an electronics repair place. eg. T.V. repairer.

Well I replaced the caps and set all outputs to 2.5v, it seems partially better. I'm still getting the ABS and 4wd lights on every now and then.

Mines throwing a code 16.

Strange thing is, if I start the car and immediately let the clutch out and start moving, the lights stay out and 4wd is working. As soon as I stop and idle the lights come back on with code 16 again??????

A friend is loaning me his G sensor to try.

Edited January 27, 2012 by countryhick

[GTRPSI]

In case anyone needs more pics or to see how i fixed my G force sensor and what my problems were see the link below, i posted at another forum im a member of that has a electronic subsection, you may need to reg to view the pics though.

http://www.austech.info/electronics/68309-gtr-gforce-sensor-fix-help.html

It been working fine for a week now, just a burnt out Cap that cost 38 cents.....