Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jeff,

I followed your tutorial and my voltages are way off even after adjustment. I got 2.45, 2.6, and a pot that cant go past 1.9. The electronics store I have on island (Okinawa, JP) doesn't have the pots so I'm kinda stuck. Here's where my real question comes in....I didn't get the 4WD light on until I was removing tint from my back window (also turning my car off and on occasionally for some background music). Is it possible that I just smashed on a wire somewhere around the back seats and broke it that way? I am getting error code 13 which to me sounds like it has a connection to the sensor but still it hangs in the back of my mind about looking in the wrong place. I'm interested in buying a completely electronic system like the one you're making and there is another one built and currently being tested over Here

Hey - I guess it's possible that a wire got broken - but with the voltages you have I would expect and error code 13... Sounds to me like the sensor is buggered - but I could be wrong....

Jeff

  • 3 weeks later...

I've also modified the standard G sensor to fix the shit handling of stock R32 GTRs as first described by our mate Mr Edgar in this excellent article:

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Godzilla-Tamed-/A_107753/article.html

I pulled apart the G sensor, drew a circuit diagram and went from there.

By increasing the bias to the front, my comments are the same as Julian's - the car is now a frighteningly quick, this mod alone is better than every other modification I've done to the car combined!

At Sandown, go slow into any corner and put the foot down hard as you begin any turn - the car now stays glued to the track, no power oversteer at all. Too much front bias and it understeers a little under power, set it to your cars configuration and its just magic, the car is so much faster through and out of corners.... My top speed is about 20-25km/h faster down both straights after this mod :)

I'll post what to do and photos soon.... I need to do a permanent install in my car, currently i've just got a wire coming out under the center console, soldered to a potentiometer.... looks nasty but works awesome as I was developing it. The mod is extremely simple - drill a hole in the top of the G sensor housing to run a two wires through and connect the two wires to a pot to adjust front bias.

  • 1 month later...

I borrowed the picture and translated this to Swedish for the swedish Skylines. This worked like a treat! my problem was that one of the transistors had a small leak, and the problem was the leak as it interuppted the the other pins.

  • 6 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Guys just been reading this can anyone assist with the following results:

Pin 6 gives max 0.25V

Pin 5 gives min 2.79V (goes to 5v)

Pin 2 gives min 3.17V (goes to 5v)

Just getting too little and too much volts.

Which components would need changing?

Any comments most welcome

When you say "goes to 5v" what do you mean ?

Your pin 6 reading suggest either a bent pendulum or buggered hall effect sensors. It is possible to sort of make it work. But in my opinion I think it would be better to find a new / replacement one.

If you go all out and replace stuff it will work sum what, but the response from the 4WD system will be unpredictable. ie. Will come on too late, too early, too fast, or too slow...or the wrong amount of bias.

Jeff

Jeff

The voltages at pins 5 and 2 actually go up to 5V, the minimum possible by adjusting the pot are 2.79V and 3.17V respectively.

Yet at pin 6 the maximum possible is only 0.25V it goes all the way down to 0V when adjusting the pot for this one.

Cant fork out for a replacement one, would rather fix this if its possible...

  • 1 month later...

Jeff

The voltages at pins 5 and 2 actually go up to 5V, the minimum possible by adjusting the pot are 2.79V and 3.17V respectively.

Yet at pin 6 the maximum possible is only 0.25V it goes all the way down to 0V when adjusting the pot for this one.

Cant fork out for a replacement one, would rather fix this if its possible...

Have a close look at the caps, even if one is just slightly bulging on its lid is a hint that its on its last legs, any leakage and its 100% gone.

Last resort if your stuck and unsure is unsolder a leg off one cap and check the voltages, if you lost voltage on one that was working before solder it back on till you find the cap that relates to that voltage your missing, when you have worked out which cap it is try other new cap, they are cheap as chips.

Jeff

The voltages at pins 5 and 2 actually go up to 5V, the minimum possible by adjusting the pot are 2.79V and 3.17V respectively.

Yet at pin 6 the maximum possible is only 0.25V it goes all the way down to 0V when adjusting the pot for this one.

Cant fork out for a replacement one, would rather fix this if its possible...

Sorry missed this. Based off these voltages i'm guessing the G sensor is too far gone to fix. As mentioned above, try the caps as they only cost almost nothing, but I'm guessing a new G sensor is in order....

  • 1 month later...

I've got a R32 G senor i'm planning to use in a 2wd race car, jsut to check lateral G and to help detemrine the effect of various suspension/tyre changes.

can anyone explain how a sensor gets to display 'red" in the window?

does anyone have a complete pin-out diagram for this sensor. i cant find what i want with over an hour of google searching

thanks

can anyone explain how a sensor gets to display 'red" in the window?

well I know rolling the car 7 times into a gully will do it.

the indicator is not connected to the sensor in any way (well except the glue that holds it on). It just breaks and goes red when it has a large impact because it is likely the g sensor will also have been damaged.

BTW there are probably cheaper ways to get a g sensor, most logging systems/dashes have them already integrated. If you use the standard one you will need to connect to it and calibrate it. Also, RWD or not, you probably want both lateral and longitudinal sensors

  • 1 year later...

Hi Jeff,

Great explanations!

We've got an R32 GTR in Adelaide and we believe we have the same symptoms, ABS & AWD lights on w/ codes 11 & 13.

We've tried to adjust the pots but no success. All three go up to about 1.2v and then drop to zero.

Would you please help us out?

Thanks mate.

Hey,

Yeah sounds like the G-Sensor is the problem. Unfortunately it sounds like your sensor might be beyond repair :-( I have tried to repair sensors like yours in the past, but haven't had much luck. You can get them to stop throwing error codes on level ground, but the sensor characteristics are just awful. (ie Will engage front wheels at the slightest touch of the throttle, etc etc etc)

I would say a new sensor might be the best way to go.

Sorry I can't help more here. Wish I finished the little PCB replacement for the R32 I was working on. Twin babies seem to have gotten in the way of car projects....

Jeff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Yes we're a bit optimistic we might get something out of sealing up the two pipes of the external wastegate and reactivating the stock one. I believe the orginal stock wastegate was tack welded shut. It doesn't budge and visually looks closed and sealed. The car has noticeably more lag so it could be at least part of the problem, maybe all. It's definately one of the key changes made since last tune. And it's one that's more difficult to fully understand and measure, not like for instance timing or cylinder compression.  Thanks for that feedback, we'll let you know how this progresses. Fingers crossed.   Regards Rob
    • Transplanting the vvt from a 25neo into an rb26?
    • Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
×
×
  • Create New...