Cai And Thermofan Questions

[Justlikemusic]

1. Im looking at connecting the thermo fan under the bonnet up to run off a relay which I can fit so the fan comes on with my accessories on ignition. Where would be the best easiest ignition wire to run the relay from?

2. I have a pod filter in the engine bay, in a turbo car is this a problem like it is in an NA car from sucking in hot air? Or does the intercooler fix that?

[R31Nismoid]

More of a problem on a turbo car as there is more heat due to the turbo etc.

[Justlikemusic]

When I start my car and drive it around the block... it runs wicked. Then once it warms up it dies in the arse if I put my foot down or after 3000rpm+. I put in BKR7E's and siliconed the crap out of the coilpacks twice. Grounded the ignitor and it's still doing it.

I have heard it could be wiring to the coil packs, a CAS... but figure it's the coil packs.

I really want to convert to wasted spark setup with the MSD VN coils because the cheapest splitfires I found used were $350-400. Otherwise it is JJR ones. At 6000rpm+ it makes power again and pulls like a train.

Anyway I thought the Pod sucking in the hot air in the engine bay would be another big reason for it running crap. Car is running 7psi boost with solenoid mod. Got a 10psi wastegate coming on the weekend probably. Maybe VN coil setup too if I get enough time.

[blind_elk]

1. Im looking at connecting the thermo fan under the bonnet up to run off a relay which I can fit so the fan comes on with my accessories on ignition. Where would be the best easiest ignition wire to run the relay from?

Why? There is no point in having a thermo fan on permanently. The principle is to have them only come on if the engine overheats. The majority of the time, the movement of the car produces sufficent airflow through the radiator to keep the temperature under control. Although my experience has been that the factory viscous clutch fan is far superior in performance at maintaining engine temperatures.

2. I have a pod filter in the engine bay, in a turbo car is this a problem like it is in an NA car from sucking in hot air? Or does the intercooler fix that?

The air should be as cool as possible before it enters the turbo. The turbo adds heat during the process of compressing the air charge. While the intercooler removes some of that heat, it cannot remove all the heat. So if you have a pod, the air entering the combustion chamber will generally be even hotter than if you use the original airbox.

[jjman]

yeah an unsheilded pod sucks some serious heat into the charge. Its pretty easy to make a home-job shield. Otherwise there are plenty to be bought or have fabricated for the 1-200 mark.

I run a thermofan (16") and it is awesome. Car runs smoother, with more power and pick-up. It also runs cooler!! Tho this might also be because i had the radiator cores cleaned (30% blocked it turns out). N i think this is the major issues with skylines. They are older and have plenty of gunk n corrosion thru the system n radiator. Nonetheless, cooler. Id say it shifts way more air than the standard clutch fan at idle/low rpm n then if ur revs are higher its cos ur driving and the air-force is the main cooling force then so makes the fan less relevant.

Iv also got a big FMIC and 225kwatw so its not like this is only working on a stocker...

bit of a job to hook up tho...

[Justlikemusic]

Im trying to keep the R34 SMIC there but somehow get the pod drawing in cold air only. Maybe sealing it and having a 3" piping with an inline fan and pipework from the front blowing through it will help. Going to be running 10psi so doubt I will need to upgrade the intercooler. Running a big alloy 52mm radiator now so shouldn't have any problems with heat.

blind_elk: Im keeping the engine fan, it's just the air con fan I wanted to hook up. We have been having 35C days here and Im sure it's going to help. It's mounted near the pod side and might blow a bit of the hot air out of the engine bay which will decrease my underbonnet temps.

I thought the CAI would help with the turbo intake heat, but what the motor sees is cooled by the SMIC so it wouldn't matter as much... anyway thats what I thought. I understand the principle of a CAI setup and the need for fresh air in a N/A engine and now understand it's the same with the turbo vehicles.

Also has anyone made a template of a CAI shield for an R33? I guess I'll just get my cardboard out.

Edited March 10, 2011 by Justlikemusic

[jjman]

ahhh, yeah if u dont screw anything up then having the ac fan turn on earlier could be a bit of a smart mod (you know it turns on regardless at a given temperature yeah? so u are only going to be able to drop the temp point of that turn on point)

yeah templates of the CAI/box vary as everybody's intake pipe, pod intercooler setup can vary so its a DIY. Doesnt need to be airtight, just direct the best air possible...

any thoughts on why u are sticking with the smic? when going fmic that hole it opens up is great for CAI...

[Justlikemusic]

Thought it turns on with the A/C only

For a stock looking engine bay... ideally a heat shield on the pod and the most engine bay bling I have is a 52mm alloy radiator. Don't want to get picked on and a R33 RB25 @ 10psi is enough to keep me happy as a daily for now.

[OMY31T]

wouldnt there be more sense in an fmic?? im pretty sure the power gains would be greater with an airbox and FMIC if u want to keep it legal.. i pulled 225rwkw with an airbox,apexi panel filter and return flow fmic in my previous setup.

[Justlikemusic]

The R34 coolers are proven to make decent enough hp for what I want, and I've already swapped it over. Putting the stock airbox back in sorta defeats the purpose of putting a FMIC in to free up a path for colder air. I guess the best option is to put the stock airbox back on. Or at least use the stock snorkel and make a head shield for the pod. I removed the rubber from the top of the headlight/bottom of bonnet to help it a bit maybe but still far from ideal. I'm targetting the coil pack issue first though, 0-100km/h in 9 seconds is crap, my stock EB falcon with EL motor is faster!

[jrm]

The R34 coolers are proven to make decent enough hp for what I want, and I've already swapped it over. Putting the stock airbox back in sorta defeats the purpose of putting a FMIC in to free up a path for colder air. I guess the best option is to put the stock airbox back on. Or at least use the stock snorkel and make a head shield for the pod. I removed the rubber from the top of the headlight/bottom of bonnet to help it a bit maybe but still far from ideal. I'm targetting the coil pack issue first though, 0-100km/h in 9 seconds is crap, my stock EB falcon with EL motor is faster!

They do faster than that completely unmodified - get your car sorted before slapping more mods on it.

[Justlikemusic]

Still working out what I am doing about the coil pack business.... it's either VN wasted spark, replacement yellow jackets or some other form of 6 single coils. I have a spare Eagle 9mm lead kit so I have the leads ready to go. Its definately a spark issue for the power loss.

[jjman]

my money is on the coilpacks. CHange the plugs while you are in there yeah...

[Justlikemusic]

Changed plugs to BKR7E already last week and siliconed up the coilpacks. Made a little difference but I think the coils are stuffed. I think I'll go hunt down a VN commodore coil pack today and convert it. Then later spend $200 on the MSD unit to replace the VN one.

[blind_elk]

I suspect you are running a too cold plug. RB25DET is a '5' standard, and unless you are making serious power, I wouldn't go colder than a '6'.

Also, a 'BK' plug is marginally shorter than a 'BCP' plug (from seat to terminal contact) - maybe change to a BCPR5ES or BCPR6ES plug, gapped around 1mm.

[Justlikemusic]

Ah I think BCPR6ES 1.1mm will be next once I get the spark sorted out. If I get problems again I'll regap them down until I don't. Did my research on plugs, and I think your right. Don't think the car is going to push more than 200rwkw @ 10psi with mild mods.

Picked up some VS commodore coils today and all the bits I need to make it work. Will install this all tomorrow... probably make the wiring harness for it tonight to make it easier tomorrow. Just need to work out which spade bit is which on the VS coil.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357071-spade-connector-wiring/

[base308]

Wouldn't worry to much I am using bcpr6es-11 in my 20 and its fine the codes for gapping are bcpr6es is standard .8 mm gap and bcpr6es-11 is 1.1 gap hence the 11 at the end of the code but always check gap with digital Verniers as gapping at factory can be pretty dodge

[Justlikemusic]

Cool, I got the VS commodore coils in there today and my radiator all hooked up.... coils running pretty crap but next on the list is some cheap rims, 10psi and a date at collie =) Did you end up getting an RB20 for the VL?

[KiwiRS4T]

Don't worry about the thermofan just restore the stock airbox and snorkel and get a highflow filter - I was making 245awkw with that setup and people have made 300kw so you should be fine. If you want to look legal but want a better cooler there is (was?) an ARC smic for sale which is even better than the R34 one (but not cheap).

[Justlikemusic]

I've stuck a VS commodore wasted spark setup there now, so going to have to custom make a heat shield/air box. I really like the look of the stock snorkel and I will probably incorporate this into my design. It's weird I always put pod filters on my cars, but my falcon just run like a pig on takeoff with the pod. Stuck the stock airbox back on and boom! wicked launches from the lights again.