Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so how do you drive backwards in the rain phil, sounds kinda dangerou

Whoa.... talk about off track thread!

This is about getting a 33 GTS-t to 900kg guys, lets be serious can we.....

I think you'll need to use GTR front guards.

just remove the guards altogether , not like they are doing anyting useful

Thanks for all the replies . I have read them all. Interesting and helpfull. The car has been stripped of interior parts and has no seats or carpets, sound insultion taken out. Have the sprint v seat ready to go in with harnesses. The air con will be removed next. I am considering putting a carbon fiber bonnet on after the air con removal. I believe these can save approx 8 - 9 kg. after that will remove sound deadening from boot, few extra interior parts to go. BTW how much will the air con on an R33 weigh? how much weight would aluminium radiator save?

Took the aircon out of my 32 the other day, everything in the engine bay came to 14.9kg.

Aluminium radiator weighs a similar amount to the standard plastic one, how ever the larger size means it will take more coolant and thus increase the overall weight.

i saved around 8kg in doing the rear quarter and windows lexan. thats in a 31 though.

if its track only how about

fuel cell

removing hicas +all lines

titanium nut/bolts +wheel nuts

rotor with alloy hats

bonnet boot and doors in carbon

smallest wheels your brake will allow (i think you save around 1kg a tyre a inch)

alloy/titanium pipe work

etc etc

maybe even going something like a LS1/X/2 or VQ35DE+t lot of weight saved in alloy blocks and ive seen a dude pick up the 6 speed out of the VQ35 under one arm!

depend on how serious you are i suppose.

does the R33 have the same plastic fuel tank in between the spare tyre well and the rear seat the same as the s14/s15? If so fuel cells difference can not be as great and where i have seen most people place them is higher in the centre of gravity.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

As I see it, the front of gtst's is where most issues are in terms of easy weight to remove.

frp bonnet and guards are a no brainer. I have made an mould and pulled a set of Kevlar guards out, <1kg each. Front bar with splitter is still in the works.

Eliminate all the normal comfort stuff, sounds like you have done most of that.

The windows, reg etc in the doors saves 20 kg on its own. Trimming the extra fat off the steel door ends up lighter than carbon ones I have weighed.

I have seen an s14/15 strut front end in a 33. I question if the weight of a loaded car will flex the strut, but I am looking into this over the next week.

I think close to 1000kg is realistic and possible, that's where I'm aiming, I'm building it for 2A Sports which has a min wieght restriction. I'll be under so this way I can choose where it goes to balance it all up nicely on the scales.

Photos of front bar? :)

Also while on this topic, does any one actually know the weight distribution of Skyline models? (As in 60/40, 55/45 etc).

Has any one weighed one properly? How much weight from the front has to be removed (or moved to the rear) to bring out a better balance towards 50/50? (obviously would be very hard for a GTR with the extra weight over the front axles).

2nd pic from the top shows it. This is not suitable for a street car, it sits way too low.

Theres another pic further down that shows just how far the splitter protrudes.

track car only.

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=713232

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...