Jump to content
SAU Community

Why Do You Need A Catch Can Rb26Dett

ripps

By ripps,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ripps Collaborator

ripps

Posted
Posted

just in the last couple of stages of putting my engine back together. and wondering why i need a catch can? it is a rb26 running 2560 -5s, cp pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings 700 injectors and looking at runnning about between 22 and 24 psi. so any info or advice or a good answer to why i need a catch can and not run it all the standard way

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

just in the last couple of stages of putting my engine back together. and wondering why i need a catch can? it is a rb26 running 2560 -5s, cp pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings 700 injectors and looking at runnning about between 22 and 24 psi. so any info or advice or a good answer to why i need a catch can and not run it all the standard way

You dont HAVE to. All it does is seperate the oily mist from the air.

Stock setup it gets drawn out of the head into the intake pipes under boost, and inder Vac it is drawn out via the PCV too. It could possibly lower your octane rating slightly if you have alot of it. And it can also coat your turbine wheels and intercooler + pipes in an oily film over time.

Its up to you.

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted

If you have the N1 oil pump, chances are your head won't drain quick enough, even with the additional rear drain.

RB's are notorious for this, also one reason why so many Rb26's lose the main bearing.

I have RB25/30 with N1 pump, all oil feeds left unblocked, and no rear drain.

On my last track day , on hard left turns, my right side rocker cover filled up with oil, then the PCV spewed it all into my plenum and back out through my BOV all over the track.

Then again on acceleration out of the corner I had so much blue smoke, couldn't see the car behind me.

Oil dripped out the BOV for the next 6 weeks, and it probably sucked back into my intercooler too.

Block off your PCV at the least, and save your engine.

So when you do set up a can, as rice says, make it catch oily vapour too, keep that shit out of your intercooler.

Do the stainless steel wool gig, every bit helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • 32.det
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By 32.det · Posted

      Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • GTSBoy
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Duncan
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • 32.det
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By 32.det · Posted

      Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...