Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Gearbox 4Th To 5Th Crunch

Ishman
 Share

Recommended Posts

vesh Proficient

vesh

Posted
Posted

I am looking at getting my R33 GTR gearbox with OS Giken gearset rebuilt.

Anyone know what I would expect to pay for a rebuild with all new series 3 GTR synchros?

Also, does anyone recommend a good gearbox rebuilder in Melbourne??

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted

I am looking at getting my R33 GTR gearbox with OS Giken gearset rebuilt.

Anyone know what I would expect to pay for a rebuild with all new series 3 GTR synchros?

Also, does anyone recommend a good gearbox rebuilder in Melbourne??

I'm looking at rebuilding mine when the new clutch is going in. The quote I got from my mech is around 1.8k-1.9k with labour and oil etc.

  • 2 weeks later...
Fantm1 Contributor

Fantm1

Posted
Posted

I had an occasional crunch into 5th even when changing at a casual rate also the odd crunch on fast changes into other gears. I put in Redline Shockproof Light and it pretty much all went away. It crunched once into 5th soon after putting it in but not again for the last 3-4,000kM. Occasionally I feel a slight grab into one of the other gears, but not a crunch. For my g/box and hip pocket Redline Shockproof Light was the answer.

Crunched hile trying to get into fifth on the weekend. It just didn't want to go in. It was like I wasn't even using the clutch. This was at 1.5hours into a 4 hour drive. Didn't do it again. For now I'll just live with it.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Redline lightweight shockproof gearbox oil.

Get some off Harold from PerformanceHub on eBay.

Mate had exact same problem, the above fixed his.

Not cheap, approx 120ish?? for the oil, but definitely worth it, don't skimp on cheap shit.

That's me :D

Discovered my crunch at Powercruise, Redline sorted it out. Hasn't done it since. Well worth the money I paid for it, +1 for Harold (@ PerformanceLub James :P ).

  • 1 year later...
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

You'll find just about all boxes will if you try too fast of a gear change. Same with my RB25 box in my 31 and the GTR.

4th to 5th demands you be a little slower I've found for whatever reason. It is the smallest gear too remember.

Doesn't do it if you just give it that half second longer.

why is it one person says this when everybody else says you need new synchros or oil. :unsure:

I will try this before I try new synchros or oil and report back anyway..

Never really noticed an issue with my box apart from the occasional low gear crunch when cold...

untill Phillip Island, only really on the main straight, flat out trying to change into 5th was horribe CRUUNNNNCH!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
    • cabramatta
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By cabramatta · Posted

      Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • DRoc81
      Shifting questions

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
×
×
  • Create New...