Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys,

*Insert dramatic music here*

You asked for it; I told you it was coming.

You nagged me; I told you to wait.

No more waiting!!!!!! Well a little; but I digress...

Whiteline now have part numbers for these bars so we're going to go ahead with a group buy.

Whitelines official retail price is; $320 front, 32mm Blade Adjustable. $285 rear, 20mm Blade adjustable. The Group Buy Price will DEFINITELY be LESS than this!

So what I'd like now; is for all the people who've been nagging and hopping around on one foot waiting to get on here and express your interest in this group buy.

I've been assuring Wayne that there's MASSIVE interest in these; so don't make a liar out of me.

Whiteline will be looking at this as a barometer for future products for the M35, if these fly off the shelf; other products will surely follow. If there is lukewarm interest well, you know the deal... And don't come crying to me.

I'll be hammering out the full details early next week and I'll have a full price list and a formal Group Buy hopefully Monday or Tuesday. But I'll do my best to answer any questions you might have in the meantime.

So that's it; get off your arses and show me what you're made of; Tell your mum & dad, ring randoms in the white pages, hell; hire a skywriter!

The future of awesome M35 products depends on it!

Cheers, Dale

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356950-eoi-for-whiteline-nm35-sway-bars/
Share on other sites

Hey Dale, you always write a good post.

I'm interested in these. How do they compare with the group buy you ran in December? I notice the last ones were 30mm front (now 32mm) and 24mm rear (now 20mm).

Do you think Whiteline and the previous manufacturer have different views on what size works best? Maybe the design is more critical than the bar diameter? Or maybe it's as simple as "we've got excess stock of this size material so should use it up....."

I'm guessing these would be a great improvement over stock, but curious as to what you've heard.

Two quick questions to finish: If you were to do just one 'end' due to financial restrictions, would it be front or rear (or not recommended)?

And lastly, at what point in the process would pricing be firmed up & will freight costs kill off potential savings?

Thanks, Leon.

Hey Dale, you always write a good post.

I'm interested in these. How do they compare with the group buy you ran in December? I notice the last ones were 30mm front (now 32mm) and 24mm rear (now 20mm).

Do you think Whiteline and the previous manufacturer have different views on what size works best? Maybe the design is more critical than the bar diameter? Or maybe it's as simple as "we've got excess stock of this size material so should use it up....."

I'm guessing these would be a great improvement over stock, but curious as to what you've heard.

Two quick questions to finish: If you were to do just one 'end' due to financial restrictions, would it be front or rear (or not recommended)?

And lastly, at what point in the process would pricing be firmed up & will freight costs kill off potential savings?

Thanks, Leon.

Leon, my group buy was based on the original Selby's upgraded bars Andy65b & others have fitted. I read all the feedback & saw no reason to re-invent the wheel, when Gary (Sydneykid); a suspension guru, had done all the testing & calculations.

Whiteline do have a different take on the bars but they based all sizing on testing they did with a car mounted G meter, and their own years of experience ( Wayne tells me that the employ several key people from the "old" Selbys company). I won't question their expert opinion.:worship:

Julius (Paramour), who has the prototype Whiteline bars on his car; very generously allowed me to drive it recently ( Thanks Jules :wave:) and although we run different suspension setups (Me; BC's, Jules; Nismo) and I wasn't thrashing his car, the end result is very similar. I was expecting a lot of difference, but they're comparable.

As for "we've got excess stock of this size material so should use it up....." ; I can assure you that's not the case.

Regarding financial restrictions; The rear bar will cure a lot of the inherent understeer, but they really work best as a set. The difference is frankly amazing.

Regarding freight; The last lot were $20 delivered to QLD and $40 to WA, so I believe this should be reflective of what you can expect.

In.

My wife's gonna kill me :whistling:

$8k spent on the car in 3 months....:ph34r:

Good stuff mate! I live in a constant state of wondering when my missus will snap, and murder me in my sleep, due to my obsessions. Wouldn't trade it :thumbsup:

Keen! Put me down for a set.

Does this include links/mounts?

Chris, The price will include all necessary bushes. The links and Heavy Duty mounts will be extra.

I will be able to get the links at a discounted price (actual price, yet to be confirmed) but it will be very competitive.

The Heavy Duty Rear upper mounts, will be $60 for the pair, which I think is a VERY fair price, considering what is involved. I'll have some of these at the Sydney Stagea meet for everyone to look at & I'll have photo's up on here soon.

Everything will be available separately for those on a budget; I have a young family and a mortgage; I understand . Link kits & mounts are easy to pop in a satchel and cheap to send.

Obviously; If purchased at the same time, freight will be cheaper than buying separately, as I can bundle it all together.

For the Sydney based guys, like yourself; I'll organise delivery free of charge within a reasonable distance, as before.

Cheers, Dale

Edited by Daleo

Keen! Put me down for a set.

Does this include links/mounts?

Hi There,

These are bars only with our bushes as we went 32mm from the OE bush will not work.

Rear Links are available now and have been the whole time they are KLC141 sold seperate.

Front links you retain and at this stage with the unusual design no one has worked out a new style for them in fath that they will be as strong as factory.If sales of NM35 parts go well I am sure in the future these can be looked at to match the bars we sell if enough do sell

The price will include all necessary bushes. The links and Heavy Duty mounts will be extra.

I will be able to get the links at a discounted price (actual price, yet to be confirmed) but it will be very competitive.

The Heavy Duty Rear upper mounts, will be $60 for the pair..

When you get a chance, can you clarify what I actually need to buy to install the sway bars? Now we're talking links and heavy duty mounts. Anything else (nuts & bolts, rubber do-dads)?

I think I read before that something broke on a car (yours?) and maybe that is why there is now a heavy duty version.

Are these extras neccessary or just desirable for longevity?

PS, my quip before about using up excess stock of bar should have had a smiley :rolleyes: after it. I know Whiteline wouldn't do that..

When you get a chance, can you clarify what I actually need to buy to install the sway bars? Now we're talking links and heavy duty mounts. Anything else (nuts & bolts, rubber do-dads)?

I think I read before that something broke on a car (yours?) and maybe that is why there is now a heavy duty version.

Are these extras neccessary or just desirable for longevity?

PS, my quip before about using up excess stock of bar should have had a smiley :rolleyes: after it. I know Whiteline wouldn't do that..

The bars will come with everything you need. :thumbsup:

2 "D" bushes per bar, which replace the rubber originals; and all of your original mounts & links will fit straight on.

Several people have cracked the factory rear upper mounts and the links on mine were as worn as you'd expect for a car of it's age.

The Whiteline Heavy Duty Ball links have ball joints more than twice the size of the originals, with an anodised billet adjuster and will probably outlast the car :thumbsup: .

My Heavy Duty mounts are twice the thickness of the originals and are an extruded 316 grade Stainless piece that WILL NOT flex or crack like the originals.

I'm not for a minute implying that you'll instantly break any of the factory pieces once you upgrade the bars, but it's certainly a little extra insurance against a known issue with the factory parts.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

Cool, thanks Dale. That was as succinct an answer as I could have asked for. Much clearer now.

I'll wait to hear more about the prices of all the goodies before deciding which way I will go.

Cool, thanks Dale. That was as succinct an answer as I could have asked for. Much clearer now.

I'll wait to hear more about the prices of all the goodies before deciding which way I will go.

Hi Leon,

I will put in context. In the 2 years I have had my sway bars on I have snapped 1 link and cracked 3 mounts.

It always seems to happen when I do a road trip when I am fully loaded with people and luggage.

Cheers

Andy

PS, Tuner arrive. thank you.

Julius was at Northshore today and loved his Whiteline sway bars so much he took me for a ride.

Huge improvement! Love it!

Put me down for a full set.

There was some brass linkages though? Do you know anything about them?

Great work on the group buy! Thanks!

Julius was at Northshore today and loved his Whiteline sway bars so much he took me for a ride.

Huge improvement! Love it!

Put me down for a full set.

There was some brass linkages though? Do you know anything about them?

Great work on the group buy! Thanks!

That would be these.:thumbsup: Whiteline Heavy Duty Ball Links. The "Brass" is anodised aluminium.

post-61153-0-13221500-1299842694_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-76535000-1299842729_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-62358100-1299842763_thumb.jpg

These will be available with the group buy, I'll have firm prices early next week.

Thanks for the support guys, I'll keep you posted.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

That would be these.:thumbsup: Whiteline Heavy Duty Ball Links. The "Brass" is anodised aluminium.

post-61153-0-13221500-1299842694_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-76535000-1299842729_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-62358100-1299842763_thumb.jpg

These will be available with the group buy, I'll have firm prices early next week.

Thanks for the support guys, I'll keep you posted.

Cheers, Dale.

Ok because that was the bit i didnt want :P

In Julius's car they make a weird clunking noise... Not sold on that, sounds like somethings wrong!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok now I’m extremely jealous 
    • Exactly, when searching online they were a lot more common on S13s, but have seen quite a few of Skyline GTSs with them as well.
    • Thanks for the feedback!   “Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37.” I wonder if the extra plug out has anything to do with the factory optioned drive recorder, or traffic updates. It looks like these systems link to the main screens too, and probably rv37 specific over Q50 perhaps?   “Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?” The car has a Japanese TV in it already. For compliance it will be disconnected I think.  From what I read it only works when the handbrake is engaged anyways, but an aftermarket module can be installed for use with handbrake not applied. I was more so curious if there was a way to convert the NTSC to PAL for Australian operation. (I don’t need it but it’s cool to have the gadgets working) I have a BNR34 MFD I converted years ago to take PAL signal in my skyline and I linked it to the DVD Head unit for dual screen use. There was some write up on SAU back in the day how to do it and I can’t remember what was involved. So sorta curious what can be done here etc.  “So, Pac posted in the other thread about a box that plugs into the USB C and gives you full Android OS to run whatever modern/connected nav you want on the top screen, and it still automatically switches back to function” The Rv37 model comes with Apple play and Android, I think the Q50 doesn’t? so for me I can simply plug my phone into the usb or maybe blue tooth and that will become it’s own Nav that way independent  I’m happy for this option but again figured if there was a factory module can it be used or updated.  It had SD card slot for map updates so I could update it if I can get AUS specific maps on it,   That alibaba screen does look neat.  I’m not ready to bust a move just yet on it or something like to as my car can take my Apple iPhone already.  Also it doesn’t say it suits current model Rv37 skylines but the Q50, so perhaps it may not be skyline compatible.  I’d love to see one installed to know first hand or even see one in Q50 and hear some feedback, is it cheap Chinese junk!? Is it good? Does it suit RHD? Is it internet compatible like a normal tablet, and will it support all rv37 specific options like map zoom and steering wheel control and Bose system and so on.. I’m certainly intrigued and interested       I’ve done some digging around.; my local Nissan has a tech guy ex Infiniti and he wants to try trick the nav unit into think it’s q50 so it takes Aussie software or something,  When it arrives I will take it there and see what he can do.    Also seems we no longer have Nissan connect app available in Australia now. I’ve read my dealer books etc at home and it seems in Japan via that app you can purchase internet plans for the rv37 skyline to work through the screens inside. it seems that you can get traffic updates, it links to ETC, and I believe the in car specific recorders. This video then is all stored and visible via app. the Nissan connect app can also be used for remotely starting and controlling heaters etc from afar. Seems tv was also part of this. I’ll have a further look and play when it arrives. (I wonder if I can somehow get the Japan version of Nissan connect on my phone and use the remote start features etc) App Store won’t allow it as region specific- need configure that one   rv37 has multiple security options and packages.  Premium package comes with tilt sensor, remote and battery in siren, and can be bundled with auto mirror retract when locked, door jam illumination when opened on drivers side only, and also remote start.  Otherwise all modules can be purchased separately and still applied but easier to do as a whole and bundle for shared hardware and looms. (This is where Nissan Japan have advised the security part needs a dealer device to set up). Australia dealers have advised me Australian delivered models weren’t offered factory optioned  security systems so they don’t really know what’s entailed and what device.  Nissan Japan state that the other components like mirror retract and door lighting and remote start should still work on that package even if security doesn’t (however security still may).  I’m tempted to purchase and take the risk on this. There’s a possibility it can be made to work by piggybacking off signals etc instead too.     im curious if any Q50 owners have a factory optioned security system with these options or just a factory optioned system. If so I’d imagine the same device or process for installation should be needed meaning someone with Q50 dealer Experience may know. (Waiting on my local tech to get back to quiz further here prior to ordering)   and like q50 some of the v37 models have the scuff panel illumination and the footwel illumination too.  I see 400R wasn’t compatible according to Nissan diagrams.  I’m guessing it didn’t have a plug out for this. Would be a nice addition… I wonder if anyone has this in a rv37 or q50 and has a wiring diagram or booklet for installation to know where to piggyback the system too.  Seems to activated by door opening, so if imagine it would grab a door ajar signal and 12v and earth and probably ignition, but curious to know more as it’s pretty much the only factory option the 400R doesn’t take.     Thanks for your inputs. I’m finding so little information rv37 skyline specific as apposed to Q50 so trying to pioneer forwards and see can and can’t work and what options are there to help.  I’ll keep updated when the car is landed and ready to play with on these things in the hope it helps others and my journey can assist.  Appreciate any input and help.  Cheers 
    • Nah, if I need to fit people in a car I'll just use the Mrs car, the MX5 is perfect for what I need as a fun little sports car for fun on the street As for getting in and out of the MX5, I have no issues as I am a short arse who does lots of mobility training 🥷 If anything, I have been looking at Daihatsu Hi-Jets for a work hack, I helped one of my mates move some stuff with one recently that he picked up from Just Jap, it was a little ripper and plenty big enough for what we needed, it would also be super handy for me as I do alot of gardening, and plan on having some veggie patches and native gardens in the place I buy next year when I retire I did alot landscape gardening and growing veggies prior to my current job, and loved it, and that is a hobby that can keep me sane in my retirement, and as such, the little 300kg load capacity would be more than enough for what I need it to move around I have been looking at utes for just this purpose for a while now, and a near new 2024 Hi-Jet can be had for under $30k And I would rather look at a quirky little Hi-Jet than pretty much any other little ute, well, apart from a Brumby, I love the little Brumby, and weirdly have never owned one yet I was going to buy a heap of raffle tickets to try and win the Brumby that MCM built for Subaru Australia, but sadly I totally missed the raffle, I even filled in some form to be told when the raffle started so I could buy tickets, but to my dismay I was never contacted and found out I missed it when I was randomly googling Brumbys last year... #conspiracy  Maybe I should just buy a Brumby for a little "work hack".....LOL I use to be indecisive, but now I'm not sure
    • Well.... it's not just "de-oxygenating". If you do that you just have, most likely, ethane. So you still need to do a synthesis step to combine a number of ethanes/ethanols to make circa-8-chain hydrocarbons. And of course you don't want straight chain HCs, because n-octane actually has a negative octane rating (ie, it's worse even than the n-heptane which sets the zero on the octane scale!), so you have to do some tricky catalytic chemistry to synthesise branched HCs. That's all doable - but it doesn't come for free. And.... it starts with ethanol, which is an agricultural product, and there will almost certainly never be enough of that as a base stock to replace the liquid fuels that are in use. You really wouldn't want to be planning to be using any more ethanol for fuels than is currently already used (in E10, E85s, etc). And ideally you'd be looking to reduce such usage, as it is largely wasteful, particularly in the stupid-ole'US-of-A where the corn lobby has organised it so that it's actually primary production corn that is used to make a lot of the ethanol, not by-products and waste, like it is (mostly) elsewhere. So, what I said about needing free-ish energy probably still applies. True synth fuels would be made from H2 and CO2, in a near reversal of the combustion process. In fact, given that the H2 would be split from water first, it actually is a complete reversal of the combustion process. But...energy intensive. The human race burns something like 1 cubic MILE of crude oil, after it has been made into various fuels. Every year. That's a simply stupendous amount of energy. Just assume that the density is 900 kg/m3, and that the calorific value is 45 MJ/kg, then that is 165.9 x10^12 MJ of energy. Or more than 10^19 Joules. You get a maximum of 1 kJ/s per square meter solar radiation falling on the planet's surface, and so if you halve that for daylight, and halve it again for average weather (highly optimistic) and then take ~25% for the very best efficiency of solar panels, then you need about 85.7 billion square metres of solar panels to generate enough electricity to replace that liquid fuel energy consumption. Each panel is about 1m2. That's a rather large number of panels. We also burn about a cubic mile of coal. We also use hydroelectric power. We also use nuclear. We also use a number of other sources, both "renewable" and not. You can kind of ignore the renewable ones (except for hydro, because it will all end up getting subsumed into pumped hydro for storing other renewables, and so it won't be the standalone renewable that it originally was), so we end up needing a multiple of the ground area number that I just arrived at.
×
×
  • Create New...