Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Im currently looking at a AU XR8 manual as a tow car for my 32 and for the misses to drive during the week.

I was just wondering if any one up there has owned one and had any problems?

Or if theres any comman faults i should be on the lookout for?

I test drove it today and for a car thats done 210,000kms i was pretty impressed with the feel of the engine and driveline.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/
Share on other sites

They use lots of fuel....

You want one of these (at a really good price too...)

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=9509282&__Qpb=true&Cr=1&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__N=1216%201247%201252%201282%204294967079%20903%20408%204294966839&SearchAction=N&silo=1011&PriceTo=408&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=7&__sid=12CB54BF3AF7

Not bias or anything......

I LOVE BMWs! FWIW, my mum has a 528i E39 and I've managed 6.2L/100km out of it ;) ^V8 so good for towing I guess lol.

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712267
Share on other sites

^ ^ ^ So long as that 535i has had all its services done properly, it's a bargain.

I'd check fault codes and fluid leaks re side tanks, water pump, oil. Electronic digital cluster can degrade over time.

Even as a V8, the beemer uses much less fuel than the XR8 and the E39 cornering ability is renowned

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712511
Share on other sites

If you are going to use it for towing, get an auto.

Braked tow capacity for a manual is nearly half of what an auto is rated for.

And yes they are thirsty, it cost me $140 in fuel to go from Sydney with the trailer to Newcastle then back with the car on.

On average about $120 a week in fuel to run. We use premium though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712547
Share on other sites

Mmmmm......yeah get a beemer, casue like, it'll be super cheap to fix when things start wearing out prematurely because you've been using it as a tow vehicle.

Hell, the extra $12 million dollars it will cost to maintain a beemer will be more than offset by the $15 per week saving in petrol you are bound to make.

Wait, I've just re-read you OP and realised you didn't ask for an alternative to an AU XR8. Silly me.

The AUs are bullet proof and pretty much perfect for what you want. Any vehicle capable of towing another vehicle frequently without collapsing in a heap is going to use a bit more juice than the rest as it's A) Heavier - to deal with the extra stress of towing and B) going to have a bigger motor.

As long as the AU has been looked after you shouldn't have any issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712581
Share on other sites

Mmmmm......yeah get a beemer, casue like, it'll be super cheap to fix when things start wearing out prematurely because you've been using it as a tow vehicle.

Hell, the extra $12 million dollars it will cost to maintain a beemer will be more than offset by the $15 per week saving in petrol you are bound to make.

Wait, I've just re-read you OP and realised you didn't ask for an alternative to an AU XR8. Silly me.

The AUs are bullet proof and pretty much perfect for what you want. Any vehicle capable of towing another vehicle frequently without collapsing in a heap is going to use a bit more juice than the rest as it's A) Heavier - to deal with the extra stress of towing and B) going to have a bigger motor.

As long as the AU has been looked after you shouldn't have any issues.

Lol. thumbsup.gifyes.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712663
Share on other sites

Mmmmm......yeah get a beemer, casue like, it'll be super cheap to fix when things start wearing out prematurely because you've been using it as a tow vehicle.

Hell, the extra $12 million dollars it will cost to maintain a beemer will be more than offset by the $15 per week saving in petrol you are bound to make.

Wait, I've just re-read you OP and realised you didn't ask for an alternative to an AU XR8. Silly me.

The AUs are bullet proof and pretty much perfect for what you want. Any vehicle capable of towing another vehicle frequently without collapsing in a heap is going to use a bit more juice than the rest as it's A) Heavier - to deal with the extra stress of towing and B) going to have a bigger motor.

As long as the AU has been looked after you shouldn't have any issues.

Win!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712716
Share on other sites

Which series is it? Is it a series 1 XR8? If you can, try to go for a later model with the 220KW engine.

The mechanicals of the AUs are pretty reliable, but the interior quality can degrade quite heavily over time. Also, some of the smaller things like the electriconics can be unreliable. I've known of several AU owners (including my dad) who had constant problems with the radio, electric windows and mirrors and some of the engine management electronics. But I guess any used car would have these problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5713946
Share on other sites

My dad had similar issues to those on his au.

I was looking at them a while ago. The basic 5.0 L engine isn't much more powerful (13kW) or torquey (32Nm) than the xr6 at the time. And, worst of all, made at about the same rpm. It certainly felt pretty slow and heavy, despite extractors and twin 3" exhausts (well, felt and WAS slow and heavy). Getting out of the r34 and straight into it didn't help though.

(Source: http://www.trueblueford.com/AU_XR_Specifications.html )

When I was looking at them the problem that kept coming up was a whining diff, which needed some pin replaced, can't remember how much it was. Certainly wasn't cheap. I also found the pedals sticky and numb, not smooth like in almost every japanese car I've driven.

All that said though, it's a lot of car for the dough and the noise was fantastic!!! Also cheap to fix and your average mechanic is capable of working on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714149
Share on other sites

Bit of a tangent here, but on the question of what feels faster, a torquey, low revving V8 will often feel slower than a high revving turbo 6 as it makes power everywhere which means no "coming on boost" which can often give the false impression of speed.

My mate has an SII BA XR8 and it's almost neck and neck between it and my R33 GTST (mine is ever so fractionally faster in a straight line) however the R33 feels much faster. I remember the first time I took him for a spin in it his head nearly exploded as he thought it was so damn fast. Fact is, it's not much different to his car, and he flogs his thing everywhere. It's just his thing makes pwer from idle so lacks that kick in the pants feel that pretty much everyone on here is likely addicted to.

So while something like an XR8 may feel a lot slower than something like a turbo skyline, fact is there's probably a lot less between them than you think. And when it comes to corners, it's about 70% driver 30% car so a good steerer in an XR8 will likely spank a nubcake in a skyline.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714459
Share on other sites

I agree with the cowboy above, but I was also watching the speedo and there was a big difference between it and the r34 (running on 12-13 psi with exhaust, nothing too fancy). In terms of feel it felt slower than my current magna, but i don't think that was the case.

Also, unless I'm mistaken, the ba v8 was a crapload better than the au. The numbers on the au xr8 over the xr6 arent great for the au:

xr6

172 kW @ 5000 rpm

370 Nm @ 3500 rpm

xr8

185 kW @ 4600 rpm

412 Nm @ 3500 rpm

I'd go the xr6. Actually I would and did go magna. Not sure how it'd go towing a car though. There was a towcar thread on here a little while ago that in a nutshell strongly recommended people buy big 4wds so that the 2 tonnes of gear following can be kept under control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714499
Share on other sites

I recall the time that the AU XR8's were running out, Ford were doing some interesting stuff with them. One of the car magazines put one on the dyno and it nearly made the flywheel ppower figure at the wheels. Apparently they were using roller rockers and other goodies in these engines to try and catch the 5.7 Holdens, even though the marketing department never made a lot of noise about it.

As others have said, they are pretty rugged, no nonsense cars that are generally good value for money. They'll never impress euro or jap import snobs, but you do get a fair bit of car for the money.

The unreliable electrics seems to be common in Falcons. Mine had to have the following replaced under warranty: ECU, Central locking computer, power mirrors and power door lock actuators (twice). Each time I took it in for a complaint, the response was "yeh, they all do that" >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714546
Share on other sites

Au Fords were actually very mechanically sound. You shouldn't have many problems with it, mechanically that is - It had the lowest warranty issues of all family sedans during it's time (even less than the Toyota Camry and unlike the VT, which had the highest warranty issues.)

Their manual gearbox is also unbreakable. Power-wise the au S1 and 2 left much to be desired. at ~175kw The s3 on the other hand was 220kw. Torque was awesome though so for towing you shouldn't have a problem.

If it's for a good price as you say, then go for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714614
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...