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this is my first thread :)

This is for nissans from 1988-1994, altough i think its the same for 1994 models and up

ECCS has 5 modes :

Mode 1 - Exhaust Gas Sensor monitor.

When the engine is warm (closed loop) the green led turns on for lean, off for rich. It should alternate. When it is cold (open loop) it will be either on or off.

Mode 2 - Mixture ratio feedback control monitor.

During closed loop operation the red led should turn on and off simultaneously with the green led when the mixture is controlled within the specified values. During open loop the red led stays on or off.

Mode 3 - Self Diagnosis. See below

Mode 4 - Switches On/Off diagnosis.

The inspection lamp monitors the idle switch portion of the throttle valve switch, the starter switch, vehicle speed sensor an other switches with an on/off condition.

Mode 5 - Real Time diagnosis.

Same as Mode 3, but it flashes the errors as they occur.

To select the various modes :

nissandlc.gif With the ignition ON take a small screwdriver and turn it clockwise. the LED's will flash together, first once, then pause, then twice, then pause, then three times. When this happens turn the screwdriver counter clockwise. The ECU is now in mode 3 which reads out the fault codes on the LED's. It will cycle through all stored fault codes.

Red LED = 10

Green = 1

If the red led flashes 4 times and the green one flashes 5 times that means you have code 45. It will repeat this if this is the only fault. If there are more faults it will flash all the faults and repeat.

The ECU will reset when you turn the ignition off.

11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor

12 - Air Flow Meter

13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor

21 - Ignition Signal

22 - Fuel Pump

23 - Idle Switch

24 - Throttle Valve Switch

25 - Idle Speed Control Valve

26 - Boost Pressure Sensor

27 -

28 - Cooling Fan Circuit

29 -

30 -

31 - ECM

32 - EGR Function

33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor

34 - Knock Sensor

35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor

36 - EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer

37 - Knock Sensor

38 - Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2)

41 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor

42 - Fuel Temperature Sensor

43 - Throttle Position Sensor

45 - Injector Leak

47 - Crankshaft Position Sensor

51 - Injector Circuit

53 - Oxygen Sensor

54 - A/T Control

55 - No Malfunction

63 - No. 6 Cylinder Misfire

64 - No. 5 Cylinder Misfire

65 - No. 4 Cylinder Misfire

66 - No. 3 Cylinder Misfire

67 - No. 2 Cylinder Misfire

68 - No. 1 Cylinder Misfire

71 - Random Misfire

72 - TWC Function right hand bank

76 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank

77 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit

82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor

84 - Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Communication Line

87 - Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit

91 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank

94 - TCC Solenoid Valve

95 - Crank Position Cog

98 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

101 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank

103 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit

105 - EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit

108 - Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

111 - Inhibitor Switch

112 - Automatic Transmission Speed Sensor

113 - Automatic Transmission 1st Signal

114 - Automatic Transmission 2nd Signal

115 - Automatic Transmission 3rd Signal

116 - Automatic Transmission 4th Signal

118 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve A

121 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve B

123 - Automatic Transmission Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve

124 - Automatic Transmission TOR Conv Solenoid Valve

125 - Automatic Transmission Line Pressure Solenoid

126 - Automatic Transmission Throttle Position Sensor

127 - Automatic Transmission Engine Speed Signal

128 - Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor

tell me if im wrong

Thanks Skyline_boy, great info.  It didn't appear straight away because we moderate all posts in this section :)

Some ECU's have only 1 led and some, eg mine, have none, The error codes are also flashed by the dashboard engine warning light

  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...

I know I am digging up an old post but what is the code retrival procedure for an R32 GTR ECU with only 1 LED? And i dont have any Diagnostic/Consult plugs as this engine is in an R31.

  • 5 years later...

If anyone is still wondering, if you have only one led or none(uses the check engine light instead) two long flashes followed by one short flash means error code 21, ie long, long, short.

So it is pretty much the same as if you have two LEDs.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

So I followed the instructions given above on my series 1 r33 gtst.

my ecu only has 1 light, not exactly rocket science to work out how to read that - however.

I turn the ignition to "on"

turn the screw on the ECU clockwise, red light turns on and stays on (no blinking - that isn't what i was expecting)

so I turn the screw back a touch, and it gives me 5 long 5 short aka 55 = no errors logged. (guess I'm in mode 3)

feeling rather proud that I have no ecu errors I continue the instructions given and turn my ignition off.

When taking it for it's first drive after this, I was maybe 1km from my house before the check engine light starts blinking at me.

I pulled over popped the bonnet(motor running), nothing seemed out the ordinary, get back in the car.... no check engine light... hmmm

Cautiously, I started back in the direction of home and before i was into 2nd gear the light is popping on and off... sometimes a short flash other times it just comes on for a few seconds, no obvious pattern - I'm certain it's not giving me error codes in real-time.

I've reread and redone the whole error code retrieval a couple of times, right now I have the battery disconnected trying to reset the ecu.

Has anyone had something like this happen?

I really need to get this sorted, I will not drive the car while it's telling me there's a problem - even though it seems to be running just fine.

any advice would be greatly appreciated any questions happily answered. PLEASE HELP

Edited by Raven33

after resetting the ECU the engine check light stopped doing it's thing.

Something that I noticed was, when the motor was off with the ignition on and you have all the warning lights in the dash light up - the engine check light was NOT on while I was having this problem.

After the ECU reset the check engine light came on with the ignition and turned off with the others once the motor was running.

So long story short:

If you check your ECCS codes and then have the engine check light flashing somewhat randomly while driving, just reset the ECU before trying to locate a problem with the motor.

Disconnect battery, pump the brakes a couple of times, turn the headlights on if you want, reconnect the battery once the car has been sitting for 24 hours (I only waited 2 hours, might be best to wait 24 hours)

If you've reset the ECU and still having the engine check light come on and off then I'd suggest you have a bigger problem.

Hope this helps someone.

~Raven

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

tried to search but it came up with a copy an paste of the list above in the threads i've seen, what i want to know is error 13 and 98 both being "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor" which one is the ecu sensor and which one is for the gauge on the cluster?

Edited by Dan_J

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