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Wasted Spark Fail!

Justlikemusic
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Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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Posted (edited)

Well I did ask in another thread, but this is critical to getting my car running and today I spent 1hr 40 minutes on two busses and walked 2km to get to work.

The two pin plug on the RB25 near the ignitor has one white wire which is the coil +, it also has another Black/Pink wire which seems like it is in the coil pack loom. With a wasted spark setup this is obviously connecting cylinders 1 and 6 together... what does this wire do, and will it hurt it having it connected to both 1 and 6 coil power sense wires?

Cylinders 2 and 5, 3 and 4 both had spark... and the car ran on four cylinders.. I will have to swap the coils around today and test to see whether it was the coil pack being faulty but I doubt it. I have also gotten better connectors which plug into the coilpacks snugly today too. Please I need some help with this one :( To repay I'll write a guide on MSD Commodore coils into R33 RB25DET S1.

Edited by Justlikemusic
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Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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VS Commodore coils into R33 RB25DET S1. I hacked the loom up so going to keep the loom I made and make a six pin plug after the ignitor. I think I might just get a set of splitfires to save my headaches of trying to diagnose why it's running like crap. For now tomorrow i will put it back like it was.

Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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Thought MSD coils and Eagle 9mm leads would give a better spark, and cheaply cure my problem. While I've only so far used standard commodore coils... I will probably just buy some splitfires and see how they go.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Thought MSD coils and Eagle 9mm leads would give a better spark.

compared to what?

factory ignition has been well proven to 400rwkw.

this is just like your other thread about weight reduction and removing A/C so your car stops overheating.

seriously, out down the crack pipe.

Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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Was ur car missfiring on idle with old coil packs?

Nope only under boost.

And I think you got it misunderstood.... the air con removal was more for the benefit of the car in general. Tyre wear, less weight on the front end, more air flow to the radiator. I never said it would make my car 'stop' over heating.

Edited by Justlikemusic
NSNPWR Rising Star

NSNPWR

Posted
Posted

Dude, I read your other thread and thought wtf....and here we have the result...put the stock coils back on, clearly your problem was not your coilpacks...a faulty coilpack will generally give you a misfire or crappy idle which may clear under load...you had some sort of power loss, not a misfire of any kind....I find it highly unlikely you had a problem with your ignition system...as Nismoid said, factory setup good for big numbers...sh1t, even a single coil setup on a VL can make 300rwkw+....Nissan weren't idiots when they designed these things.

Change it back.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Back to stock in a hurry. Diagnose it properly before you try to change it....

Let it be known, you should never ever try to fix a problem by replacing the suspect item with something that you do not know works. Always diagnose and repair the problem in its original working form before trying to change away from what you know DOES work.

In your case, if your heart was set on running commonwhore coils, you should have dianosed the problem and proven it was your coils before trying to convert over. Maybe pay another member $20 to come over and let you use his non butchered coils and coil pack harness to see if it will start and run properly.

Do that and you will know what to do. Put a thread in the relevant state section requesting the above before you waste any more time and money.

P.S. walking 2KM is a joke of a thing to complain about, you can do it for a couple more days.

Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
Posted

running a wasted spark set-up would be fine if you had a after market ecu to control the dwell time on the coils/ igniter. too much dwell and the igniter will get red hot and prematurely fail, too little dwell and the misfires and running like crap are your friend, a wise person once told me ;)

Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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Put standard setup back in today and the car wont idle... cranks and sorta idles while im cranking, but as soon as I stop it idles for two seconds and stops...... I reckon the problem is the ground cable, at least that's what Im going to check next.

  • 2 weeks later...
Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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I am thinking it could be the spark plugs causing some of the issue... however something is causing them to foul up.

Car will idle like it has a lumpy cam and occasional backfire... I started the car without the AFM connected and it run. I had the car running with the AFM connected, then unplugged it and it stalled. I figure this means it's ok?

Will be replacing plugs today and checking. I had them very clean when I started it up after I tested the coils/plugs/loom. They got dirty quick.

I figured all the plugs are getting black and they are firing on all cylinders so it has to be some sensor that's screwed. Will be checking all hoses for leaks and taking a good look today before having to shell out for splitfires on tuesday.

post-49098-0-13506200-1301092552_thumb.jpg

Justlikemusic Collaborator

Justlikemusic

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Well I replced the igniter first up, then I just bought a replacement AFM today, still no change. So $300 later I have two good spares at least for future problems...

Going to buy coilpacks and standard loom on Tuesday and try again. Probably will just get JJR ones for $400 i think. Or yellow jackets...

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Put some decent plugs in and get some yellow jackets.

If you're getting misfire, a popping sound, on high boost then that's almost certainly the problem. Gutsy trying the holden coils, but yellow jackets are only round $400, have 2 years warranty, and have been proven to be pretty effective

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