Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have been searching the forum for advice on brake advice for my R33 GTR.

My R33 GTR is pushing 300rwkw and is mainly used as a track car. I do drive it to Wakefield and Eastern Creek and the odd cruise.

The rotors are worn out and i'm in two worlds on rectifying this.

Plan A. Keep the Brembo caliper setup and fit new front and rear RDA Gold Pasivated Rotors with either EBC Red of Yellow Stuff pads. I'll also fit the front and rear air deflectors for extra cooling. This will cost roughly $2000; or

Plan B. Go with the K Sport or G4 option of new rotors and calipers. The fronts will be the 8 spot calipers with 356mm and rear is the 4 pot with 330mm rotor. I'll fit the same deflectors as part A, but this will cost roughly $4000.

As I havent had my GTR long i'm not too sure on how hard the standard 4 pot Brembos with ok rotors go.

The car is only being used for super sprints at the moment. What do other guys with GTR's run?

What's a pair of Brembo GTR front and rear calipers worth second hand?

Thanks heaps for any help you can give....

Craig

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357339-track-car-brake-advice/
Share on other sites

R33/34 Brembo are very good. You need to run a better pad/disc combo.

I would also advice on getting braided brake lines and a brake master stopper.

for disc i would be looking at something from the Project Mu range

Pads i personally recommend Endless cc-rg (i run them in my track gtr with ap racing caliper) they are a great pad i rate them very high! however they are dusty, noises @ low speed and due to being ceramic carbon material they can eat disc

There are plenty of options out their for pads and disc, but i generally found that the better stuff does cost alot more

Edited by Kaido_RR

Go option A. You can do better than the RDA rotors just as you can do better for brake pads than yellow stuff. Try project mu for rotors (they cool alot better than the RDA type) and Ferodo DS2500 for pads. It is important the pads work cold as well as hot and you need to be aware alot of pads do not work well cold and alot do not work well hot.

Dont worry about the rears just fit them up with a reasonable pad (DS2500).

Brake master cylinder stoppers and braided lines help alot too as does removing the stone guards from behind the rotor. Get some Motul RBF660 fluid.

Also rim selection has a BIG influence on brake cooling. R33 rims are good but I have NFI what you are running.

The last & best option you can buy is a cheap data logger to make sure you are hard on the brakes. It is easy to be too gentle.

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm running Rota 18x9 rims, they have 5 spokes and a lot of room for air.

I forgot to mention that I was planning on removing the stone guards for the extra cooling, the brake air deflectors look like they'd pump a fair bit of air on the rotors with the stone gaurds removed.

I would put ksport on the front and leave the standard rears (they are already pretty good).

I run the ksport style brakes on my race car when I am allowed to, and the stagea and z road cars all the time. they are excellent for the price and are as good as brand brakes 3x the price.

My R33 GTR is pushing 300rwkw and is mainly used as a track car. I do drive it to Wakefield and Eastern Creek and the odd cruise.

The rotors are worn out and i'm in two worlds on rectifying this.

Plan A. Keep the Brembo caliper setup and fit new front and rear RDA Gold Pasivated Rotors with either EBC Red of Yellow Stuff pads. I'll also fit the front and rear air deflectors for extra cooling. This will cost roughly $2000; or

I like the EBC yellows... I run them in the G4 330mm front kit with air deflectors, no stone guards and stock rear brakes on my 300kw R32 GTR and it works well. But since you've got the Brembos not the sumitomos i'd try the yellows all round with decent fluid and air deflectors. I've run Motul BRF600 with no problems, but am going to try the Nulon to see how it goes since its a third the price. Motul = 310 degress, Nulon = 280 degrees IIRC.

If you go plan B you'll still want the air deflectors.

EBC's really are very bad. I would highly recommend anyone that likes them trying a different pad. Its amazing how much better pretty much any brand name pad is than the EBC's. Endless and project MU aren't expensive for no reason.

On a budget the Hawk's are very good too even if they do lack a bit of modulation.

The only pads EBC are better than is Lucas and the AR pads that some people seem to like.

Note: This is assuming you want the best braking and are pushing really hard. If you don't care about ultimate lap times and are going for fun it doesn't matter.

anyone used the wilwood brakes? I'am looking at getting the 6 pot front 355mm and 4 pot rear 320mm.

We just did a group buy for a kit I put together for the front.

Rear is a problem because no Wilwood setup is designed for the Skyline rear handbrake. Been looking into options of a DBA rotor to work in conjunction with a Wilwood caliper but even that is proving to be a problem due to nothing appearing to be suitable.

I'm currently trialling some very cheap 2-piece rotors to fit stock brembo's - If they work out i will organise a group buy as they are almost half the price of DBA rotors. Got 2 track days over the next 2 month so I'll find out.

They are noisy as hell at the moment so not sure if the DS3000's bed in properly. Will get them out and give them a scrub over the next week or two and find out. Could be rotor composition as well though.

I've also been trying to organise a GB for front sets of the K-Sports but its proving a bit difficult at present.

DS3000's are also terrible when cold. But they are warm enough by the time i get to the end of my street (two deliberate stops from 60km-20km/h) so that doesn't worry me too much and they only get better from there.

Might try some 2500's as well but i am very hard on brakes.

I'm currently trialling some very cheap 2-piece rotors to fit stock brembo's - If they work out i will organise a group buy as they are almost half the price of DBA rotors. Got 2 track days over the next 2 month so I'll find out.

They are noisy as hell at the moment so not sure if the DS3000's bed in properly. Will get them out and give them a scrub over the next week or two and find out. Could be rotor composition as well though.

I've also been trying to organise a GB for front sets of the K-Sports but its proving a bit difficult at present.

DS3000's are also terrible when cold. But they are warm enough by the time i get to the end of my street (two deliberate stops from 60km-20km/h) so that doesn't worry me too much and they only get better from there.

Might try some 2500's as well but i am very hard on brakes.

2500's are surprisingly good Ash. I hammerred a set pretty hard over a range of conditions from street to 20 minute track sessions and never had any grief with them, They dont need much warmup and are pretty quiet too.

Would reccomend for a street track car.

Ye i have 2500 in the GTS-R and they are a good pad even for the street.

I'll see how i go with the 3000 first over 2 track days. I am testing the rotors for wear rate/reliability so the 3000 should give the rotors a good test when im hard on them.

If they dont stop squealing though - 2500 are going in. I dont drive it daily (maybe 1-2 times a week) so i dont mind so much at present.

anyone used the wilwood brakes? I'am looking at getting the 6 pot front 355mm and 4 pot rear 320mm.

the 4 spot wilwoods I've seen were pretty poor....too much caliper flex. But like all manufacturers I'm sure htey have different models, hopefully the group buy ones are more solid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...