Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Step 1

Purchase wheel stud from any autoparts store..

Step 2

This is for the rear wheel, for this the car will need to be in neutral with the handbrake off so make sure its not going to roll away by chocking up wheels then jack up rear of car and put on jackstands.

Step 3

Remove wheel

DSC02681-1.jpg

Step 4

Remove caliper by undoing these 2 bolts

DSC02682.jpg

Step 5

Remove disc, if it doesn't come off easily find 2 bolts that fit into the holes here, then turn them until the disc pops out

DSC02683.jpg

Step 6

If you line the stud up with this gap then give it a good whack or 2 with a hammer it will pop out.

DSC02684.jpg

Step 7

Put new stud in, bit tricky but can be done

DSC02685.jpg

Step 8

Now you have to pull the stud through, its a tight fit, to do this I put a large nut behind the regular nut. Then tighten it until the stud pops into place

DSC02687.jpg

DSC02686.jpg

DSC02688.jpg

Step 9

Then put it back together, give caliper a clean with brakleen or some degreaser, put a quick coat of paint on the disc and its good as new

DSC02689.jpg

Step 10

Replace shiny wheel after a solid hour of polishing >_<

DSC02690.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357402-replace-broken-wheel-stud/
Share on other sites

Thanks alot man!

I'm deff going to try this one out.

But quick question, is it possible to pull the new stud all the way out when your pulling it through the hole? Or is there something to stop you pulling it all the way out? like a grove or a stop on the end of the stud your putting in.

Thanks alot man!

I'm deff going to try this one out.

But quick question, is it possible to pull the new stud all the way out when your pulling it through the hole? Or is there something to stop you pulling it all the way out? like a grove or a stop on the end of the stud your putting in.

Yeah it will stop it has a flat end on it..

Awesome tutorial I thought I had to replace the entire hub but this is much easier and cheaper cheers.

When I pulled it apart I was thinking I may have to take the hub off too

Actually if you look in one of the pics i had taken the hubnut cap off, i went looking for a giant socket to fit but couldnt find one :D

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

How tight should the new stud be going in????

Mine was so tight i ended up stripping thread (while using the nut to pull it through) luckily i purchased an extra, so i went onto a different hole (i have 3 to replace) but that was the same so i stopped before i ruined that one too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
    • Got just the wing painted and fitted up to the existing boot. Big visual change and about time after having a GTR wing sitting in the shed since 2018 Headed up to Mallala with a quick obligatory stop in at Boliver OTR Oil control mods seems to have worked. I checked the catch can after session 1 and there was a dribble of water/e85 with barely any oil in it. After session 2 and 3 there was almost nothing and I stopped checking after that. so either great success or catastrophic failure/block of the external breather The GTR wing made a noticeable difference in the 160-185km/h sweepers. It was a very hot day for the cars at over 33C but the previously done cooling upgrade/ducting/water sprayers meant I never saw over 60C intake, 105C water and 100C oil and temps would drop back down very quickly once I shut it down. AD09's are a decent tyre but certainly and expectedly a step down when compared the the CR-S/AR-1 I have had on the car for years of track days. The handling characteristics of my car which I often describe using the Tony Hawks Pro Skater balance mechanic where either side of the center is understeer/oversteer was much more pronounced with no "green/safe" zone in the middle. However, imo it steers well/easily during oversteer largely thanks to the custom ACOSTAL front end. Enjoy a loose lap POV with my mate giggling away as a passenger.   Group photo for Peer Pressure Racing made it back home and gave it a wash Overall a great success compared to my previous two track days where i cooked the Starlets motor and blew up the new diff in the R32  
    • Nice. I'm looking forward to the updates!
    • Ayooo, been a while mates. I have a s2 r33 gtst and air stopped coming out of all the top vents.   My car has always made an actuator gear noise when turning the car on but that's a different issue I think? Did searches and am at process of thinking it's an actuator or some type of motor? I see a few different actuators and don't know which one. Would be nice to know if it was the one that's under the steering wheel so the dash doesn't need to come out.
    • Hi, just checking. Did you get this stuff made by Vspec Performance and at what price roughly? Looking into (sometime later) also getting such a intake kit, and Trust as well as HKS don't make a full set like this anymore.
×
×
  • Create New...