Whiteline Nm35 Stagea Sway Bar Group Buy

[Dunc]

ive been informed that mine rocked up today! Cheers Dale.

[bigkevracer]

Got mine today too! And damn are they heavy!

Of course I've also had my install time on Saturday cut, so we will have to see what happens... Only a couple of hours to do properly right?

[Daleo]

Great stuff guys!

Wow, S.A. really seems to take quite a bit longer we had bars delivered in QLD within 2 days...

Enjoy 'em; love to hear your feedback once fitted. And yep, only a couple of hours to fit.

Cheers, Dale.

[skip_o_valov]

Got my set today... My cheapskate missus ends up giving them to me as a birthday present...

Now there's another layer of b-day wrapping paper around them...

Thanks heaps again, Dale, for organizing the whole thing...

[Daleo]

Got my set today... My cheapskate missus ends up giving them to me as a birthday present...

Now there's another layer of b-day wrapping paper around them...

Thanks heaps again, Dale, for organizing the whole thing...

Lol @ opportunist missus!

What my wrapping wasn't celebratory enough?

Glad you guys have got yours now; I was getting a little worried!

Again, thanks to you all for your involvement; it's been a pleasure dealing with all of you. When it works as well as this one has; it makes all the effort worthwhile.

Cheers, Dale.

[Commsman]

Finally has some time to chuck the bars in this morning. What looked like a very simple & quick job has turned into a mongrel.

The bit hanging down with the tab bent over is supposed to hit up against a flat section on the bar so that you can undo the nut. Mine, however, has decided to come loose so it spins like a washer.

Now what to do? Maybe I need to take it somewhere to get a spot weld to hold it inplace. And that will probably bugger up the rubbers.... grrrr

What can't things just work like they're supposed to?

[andy65b]

Finally has some time to chuck the bars in this morning. What looked like a very simple & quick job has turned into a mongrel.

The bit hanging down with the tab bent over is supposed to hit up against a flat section on the bar so that you can undo the nut. Mine, however, has decided to come loose so it spins like a washer.

Now what to do? Maybe I need to take it somewhere to get a spot weld to hold it inplace. And that will probably bugger up the rubbers.... grrrr

What can't things just work like they're supposed to?

Try a pair of multi grips on it to hold the washer firm. Thats what I have to do on mine.

[Commsman]

Thanks for the suggestion Andy but I can't hold it tight enough. The nut is really stuck on there. I thought about vice grips also but I only own small cheap ones & so no good.

I'm just thinking now that maybe I could grind 2 flat surfaces so that I could get a spanner on it. Not a lot of room up in there for a grinder tho....

I did manage to get the rear sway bar on OK so the day wasn't a complete fail. Took me a couple of goes with the adjustable links to work out the best way for them to mount & I had a few other issues so the rear one took way longer than the front would have if it all worked first time LOL.

[Daleo]

One of mine did that Leon, and I was able to spin the nut off with a rattle gun.

Once off, I just put a small tack with the TIG to lock the tab to the shaft, then quenched it to avoid heat damage to the joint. Worked fine.

Hate it when simple jobs turn into epics...

Edited June 4, 2011 by Daleo

[Commsman]

One of mine did that Leon, and I was able to spin the nut off with a rattle gun.

Once off, I just put a small tack with the TIG to lock the tab to the shaft, then quenched it to avoid heat damage to the joint. Worked fine.

Hate it when simple jobs turn into epics...

I'm not fortunate enough to have a rattle gun at home & I seem to get more than my fair share of "epics" lol.

[zei20l]

yup mine didnt come off either. lucky my bars came with the link arms already installed.

[Commsman]

Well, my friendly mechanic let me use his hoist & tools today & I got it off with an air gun. Ended up grinding 2 flats for a spanner to neatly fit over. The thing is, when i went to put the bar on, the intact tab didn't extend past the edge because the new swaybar is bigger. So that side had to come off and 2 flats ground into the shaft as well.

What has everyone else done? Am I the only person who has found the (dodgy) mechanism Nissan designed to allow you to remove & tighten the bar to the linkages doesn't fit the new ones?

On a different note, WOW what a difference .

[Commsman]

Oh, and what has everyone done about preload on the rear bar? I asked my mechanic/race engineer sic, & he said it should have no load/tension when sitting on it's wheels.

I set mine like that when jacked up, so naturally now it's on the ground, there would be some load on the rear bar. Does everyone concur with his advice, or does it make 2 fifths of stuff all difference?

[KiwiRS4T]

? Threre's no load on the bar at rest. It works on a twisting motion so if both wheels and the car are level there is no tension. It swivels in the bushes - they should be lubed with the special stuff that came with the kit. Say you go over a judder bar square on... both the wheels go up and down in unison ...the sway bar has no effect whatever.

[Daleo]

Well, my friendly mechanic let me use his hoist & tools today & I got it off with an air gun. Ended up grinding 2 flats for a spanner to neatly fit over. The thing is, when i went to put the bar on, the intact tab didn't extend past the edge because the new swaybar is bigger. So that side had to come off and 2 flats ground into the shaft as well.

What has everyone else done? Am I the only person who has found the (dodgy) mechanism Nissan designed to allow you to remove & tighten the bar to the linkages doesn't fit the new ones?

On a different note, WOW what a difference .

On the ones I had made; you could orient the tab to sit in the unused hole next to the one the thread goes through.

No one else has commented, and Jules never had this issue so maybe that's the way to go?

Oh, and what has everyone done about preload on the rear bar? I asked my mechanic/race engineer sic, & he said it should have no load/tension when sitting on it's wheels.

I set mine like that when jacked up, so naturally now it's on the ground, there would be some load on the rear bar. Does everyone concur with his advice, or does it make 2 fifths of stuff all difference?

There should be no load on the bar at rest. If you set the link lengths before fitting; you may inadvertently put preload on the bar due to;

1; Chassis twist (Car bodies and suspension are never perfect; close, but not perfect)

2; Bar twist (again; they're never perfect)

3; Spring sag

To ensure the bar is unloaded;

1; Lock up one link and leave the other one loose; doesn't matter which one.

2; Get the car on a flat, level surface, slide under and twist the loosened link barrel (yellow anodised bit) in one direction, until you feel slight resistance.

3; Mark one flat with a texta dot, or a mark, and rotate the barrel in the opposite direction, counting the turns until you feel the same resistance as the first time.

4; Count how many turns you made, then halve the number.

5; Rotate the barrel back that number of turns, then lock up the nuts; without moving the barrel.(you can put the car up on stands or ramps to do this bit; it doesn't matter, just don't turn the barrel) You are half way between the two extremes now.

Sway Bar is now completely unloaded.

? Threre's no load on the bar at rest. It works on a twisting motion so if both wheels and the car are level there is no tension. It swivels in the bushes - they should be lubed with the special stuff that came with the kit. Say you go over a judder bar square on... both the wheels go up and down in unison ...the sway bar has no effect whatever.

Bingo.

[Commsman]

On the ones I had made; you could orient the tab to sit in the unused hole next to the one the thread goes through.

Ahh, I never checked if that hole would match up with the tab. Nevermind, I've modded it so it'll be fine from now on.

I get the principle of the sway bar re both wheels moving over a bump makes no difference, only individually. So I suppose as long as the linkages are the same length, there really isn't any problem to worry about (yes I greased the bushes so it moves freely ). Providing there's not clearance issues, in which case you would need to raise/lower as the case may be.

Mmm, if I'd given it a minutes thought I wouldn't have wasted my time, nor anyone else's, with a stupid post..... doh

[Daleo]

Meh, it happens...

Glad you're enjoying them

[zei20l]

its not stupid. and besides, someone else will have asked anyway!

or i bet someone else WANTED to ask but thought it was too stupid to ask

[Commsman]

I feel better now.

[bigkevracer]

Got these fitted today, look great, thanks Dale!

Rear bar was an issue, not a lot of clearance around my exhaust, but it *just* fit!

Front one was a bit of a bitch with the links and mounting points, but not too bad. No issues with rubbing/grinding.

Are there adjustable links available for the front?

So far I don't feel much of a difference, but going for a hills run tomorrow to see how it is on a windy road. I have a feeling my stuffed stock shocks won't be helping the situation, so have to bump coilovers up the list...

I didn't end up getting the adjustable rear toe arms installed. Dad and I did the install in his workshop and he recommended I get them to fit it when I next get a wheel alignment. I think I'll do that in the next week or two, as we did notice some feathering on the rear tyres that we didn't notice at the service around 1000-2000 km ago.