Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm looking at buying a car at the moment but the owner has finance on it. I want to know what is process for payment to ensure the debt is cleared and I wont be in shti later.

This is what i am planning to do. Go with the owner to his finance company, get them to issues a statement on the loan account, showing fees and balance and the final figure to clear the account. Then i will go to the bank and get them to issues two bank cheques, one to the finance company with the exact oweing amount and reference to the owners account number, and a second of what ever amount is left to pay the owner. Give both cheques to the owner or should I go with him to the finance company so i can watch him hand over the cheque?

Is the approach I am taking correct? or does it make the owner feel like im not trusting him lol

cheers

Edited by ztuned

its a hard one, but if it was me i would try to avoid buying a car that has finance on it full stop. that being said i think that getting two checks will insure that he has agreed to commit to paying off the loan. also if u feel like you are putting the owner in a postion that either makes him uncomfortable or you uncomfortable, just write a letter of intent stating that you have bought the car with the agreement that the owner is using part of the money to pay off the remainder of the loan and that you are not liable for any further payments later down the track. sign and date it with yours and his signatures and keep a copy for yourself.

good luck

thanks,

i have called the fiance company and they said the loan is on the car, so the car is technical their property. Even if i have a letter, its just an agreement with the buyer and seller. If the loan is not paid off or repayments are not paid, then the fiance company with take the car.

So im just wondering if there is a standard procedure for these kind of senarios as i thought they were quite common

thanks,

i have called the fiance company and they said the loan is on the car, so the car is technical their property. Even if i have a letter, its just an agreement with the buyer and seller. If the loan is not paid off or repayments are not paid, then the fiance company with take the car.

So im just wondering if there is a standard procedure for these kind of senarios as i thought they were quite common

maybe ask the company and see if they have a form for that or something then?

Usually they should provide you with a payout figure, which is good for a few days and then you can give them the funds by eft or cheque.

DO NOT let the seller handle this issue.

You could probably pay the whole amount to the finance company and they might refund the difference to their customer.

true i could pay the full amount to the fiance company but im not sure if the seller will be happy about that lol.

yeh im not going to let the seller sort it out, dont want to be in shti later

i might give the finance company a call again

cheers

you had it right the first time.. one chq for him.. one for the bank.. get the bank to issue remainer of payments..

who cares what the seller thinks.. i'm a trustful person but I'd still expect a buyer to critque me.. they dont know me.. you arent inviting this dude around for tea and scones..after the transaction you'll prob never see them again..

oh and as stated.. don't let the seller sort this.. you get the cheque to the bak.. or if he needs to be present.. get him to go with you.. i'm sure he'll do what's required to sell his car..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

thanks guys,

situation changed a bit since i just spoke to the the owner. turns out he has more moeny oweing on the loan than how much he is asking for car, and he doesnt enough to cover the difference. fail.

so now he is going to apply for a personal loan and then use that loan to cover the car loan. once everything is cleared, ill give him the money he wanted for the car in cash.

sooo much hassle

Edited by ztuned

Q. If he's so short of moolah, did he service the car fully? Can you talk to the technician who serviced it and check if the owner took shortcuts?

Yes, once he has liquidity on his car, go to the finance co. together with one cheque to them and one to him as Craig 'n Bobby have said.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
    • Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.
×
×
  • Create New...