Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and now there is a different clunk, i am thinking it is due to the heim joints in the new upper control arms??

it is only when you hit a bump that unsettles the car (like a divot before it becomes a pothole or surface change etc)

I have spare parts galore at my joint (mainly R32 and R34 parts, I am trying to rack up some cash for my house deposit atm so if your looking for parts PM me and I will let you know if I have the part your looking for.

I am also selling a 2007 Mazda 2 Genki (upgrade Model) 29,000KM's regularly serviced still with new car warranty asking $15500 for it.

I am considering selling my R34 as well so if anyone has any serious offers PM me.

turns out we fitted the straight one upside down, the notch faces the upright not the rim...lol

in turn the upright was hitting on the arm when it compressed alot...

wonder how much the guys doing the wheel alignment will charge to flip it. shouldn't be stuff all as its only 1 extra bolt to undo

Ill b attending thursday if we can get numbers again. Think its morayfield this week unless we want nandos at carseldine. Im easy, i like the drive.

I wont b at happys, car service this sat on 2 cars and some solicitor crap to do

turns out the Beetle wont be making it this weekend...he has other family stuff to do. but will come to the next one.

I prob wont be able to make thursday, as im broke and tired already from the week (insert swearing at rain here).

Happy laps is at Lakeside Raceway (part of queensland raceways) in Dakabin, its a breakfast one, so we will be arriving at the track around 6:30am (all the more reason ash could do his servicing afterwards :P )

gates are open to all if you just wanna come look and say gday, to go on track /breakfast is $35 for QLD members, and im assuming $50 for non members. but breakfast and happy laps needs to be booked beforehand

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...