Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey bodo, when ever ya free dude I got that knobby. Just waiting for the major modification! Lemme know!

Oh got the reservoir too. Thanks jdmspares for sending me a dirty and gunk reservoir tank. Beer buying from u again.....

Hey bodo, when ever ya free dude I got that knobby. Just waiting for the major modification! Lemme know!

Oh got the reservoir too. Thanks jdmspares for sending me a dirty and gunk reservoir tank. Beer buying from u again.....

Sorry been real busy...and totally buggered. didnt reply to your message either :(

should be right to do it some time this week, as for the lights. cant remember exactly which ones they are. ill find the packaging and let you know.

Just got back from getting the wifes Beetle tinted. looks good. :woot:

Sorry been real busy...and totally buggered. didnt reply to your message either :(

should be right to do it some time this week, as for the lights. cant remember exactly which ones they are. ill find the packaging and let you know.

Just got back from getting the wifes Beetle tinted. looks good. :woot:

No worries dude, I'm on arvos this week so maybe catchup on the weekend. I've got a cold ATM so don't wanna give it to anyone else.

My sticker mistake has been fixed thanks to Troy, cuttin is back and doing one more cost and wallah. She's new!

Got my car back yesterday... Crank Angle Sensor was rooted as well so got it upgraded and new tune. Dyno attached

Mods are

R33 GTST S2

Stock motor

FMIC

Spitfires

Nismo 740cc

Walbro fuel pump

Vipec ECU

GT3076 [Low mounted & Internally Gated]

3" Exhaust with Hi-Flow Cat

4" Intake pipe

Still seems a low figure. Do you guys agree?

post-51724-0-12633300-1346362307_thumb.jpg

Edited by SCR48

That looks ok IMO, how much boost are you running? May not b a huge thing but if u dif the pump did u do the regulator aswell? I know Clint did both and he runs close beside a high flow.

Still a big improvement though!

I was going to go with a highmount setup, but the costs and cons of doing it isnt worth the money nor the power you make, which isnt a hell of a lot.

There are so many more options to go than that, but thats just me :P i would probably look at going forged if you want a beastly power with the 25, now thats worth some dosh :D

Bodo, lemme know if your free sometime before sunday this weekend? ill bug ya for the gear knob, otherwise tee it up for next weekend

Running 18psi.... Think I'll look into upgrading exhaust to 3.5" and save for highmount setup

Lot more money and not better result. is that 3076 in a .82 internally gated rear housing?

Having said that its an out come of a package instead of a turbocharger alone. As a bolton option it isn't unreasonable, and rarely any one makes their desired output in the first go. Either way, the most your are likely to see on paper with current setup is roughly 280rwkws. For trouble shooting I would drop the exhaust, try a different pod filter, and a different cooler. Some of the small alterations do make a big gain.

Ultimately a proper high mount manifold and external gate definitly helps with top end power.

Sometimes northing ever goes right does it!... driving car around last day or so and seems once i get a little happy with the right foot it starts making a strange sound in boost over 4000rpm and engine light flicks on and off.... Looks like it back to the workshop it goes on Monday. Hopefully all will be fixed for powercruise on Thursday

its likely to be an occurance of high level knock. engine light doesnt come up unless knock level goes beyound 60 means danger. the sound you heard is probably detonation. i would take it straight back to the tuner for a check up.

does the engine light blink on then off?

Yep, exactly what it does.

its likely to be an occurance of high level knock. engine light does come up unless knock level goes beyound 60 means danger. the sound you heard is probably detonation. i would take it straight back to the tuner for a check up.

already booked in monday. hopefully it gets fixed

Welcome to the world of detonation unfortunately. Not bad power for the mods. If you do little changes, such as a larger exhaust or a different pod filter, it can alter the tune a little. A lot of people don't realise this. There would be nothing wrong with the size of the exhaust, there are plenty of cars producing big hp on 3" systems, so I wouldn't be worried about that. If you want to change pods, i'd do it now before it goes back, or give them it so they can fit it before they retune it.

Welcome to the world of detonation unfortunately. Not bad power for the mods. If you do little changes, such as a larger exhaust or a different pod filter, it can alter the tune a little. A lot of people don't realise this. There would be nothing wrong with the size of the exhaust, there are plenty of cars producing big hp on 3" systems, so I wouldn't be worried about that. If you want to change pods, i'd do it now before it goes back, or give them it so they can fit it before they retune it.

It's got a new pod in the last few weeks, they just upgraded the CAS the other day and retuned it.... Maybe it's related to that...There's a thread in forced induction where someone is experiencing knock and believes its CAS related

Edited by SCR48

Welcome to the world of detonation unfortunately. Not bad power for the mods. If you do little changes, such as a larger exhaust or a different pod filter, it can alter the tune a little.

+1 to the exhaust. To many people think the exhaust is the answer when it isnt

Don't mind me just lurking around, I'm a North Sider not rocking a beasty Skyline yet.... but hopefully real soon just wanted to have a look and see what we got on the North Side :D

Edited by NFORSA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...