Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK 1st thing:

Wednesday night 7:30 Morayfield - Time and area sorted (Chris will you be attending this northside meet?)

location - We doing indian brothers or fasta pasta?

Excuses

1st Q - I had a cheap FMIC on my 33 held pressure really well depends on what power you want to make if it is 200kw+ then spend the money on a good one to avoid pressure drop a FMIC doesn't really make power but it can sure as shit kill ti.

2nd Q- A boost T like the one I have in my 32 is great for starting out with and are good for making as much pressure as your stock turbo / wastegate can make, when your looking at serious numbers ( above 200kw's ) or want multiple boost settings then look at an electronic system, Note some manual ones are prone to spiking

Boiracer

Give me a ring and drop round I'll take ya for a strap in it and you can see if you like the ride of the V1's they are a shit tone better than the ones that were in it.

Everyone else

We are looking for Idea's for cruises and group events for northside so have a think about this during the week and we will have a chat about it wednesday night (locations, times, venues of interest blah blah blah)

I also have some news regarding some functions that may become available to us later this year or early next year remind me to let you all in on it on wednesday night.

Edited by RandomHero83

FMIC - The one i was looking at was is the cooling pro type 1 600 x 300 x 76 at only $400, i was going to get the blitz for 700, but my partner doesn't want too much of my tax to go onto the car (bills etc), if i can find a FMIC between 400-600 i may look into getting that and then saving for a elec boost controller at the end of the year.

@ the ideas

Ill start having a look at things we could do as a group, try get into a monthly cruise/meet up (someones place?) have a few drinks etc. If we can get this happening every month would be nice.

Then possibly something every quater of the year? My partner is interested in the drives, she just said she would feel a bit weird with a bunch of guys every weds talking about stuff she doesn't understand :P (i have explained a bit)

Joke of the week - SPAR in morayfield, (cant recall road, but off graham) A girl there was saying she knew her skylines pretty good, and was telling everyone in the store that my R33 is really a R34. My partner didn't say anything /doh. So maybe we should swap cars clint? im keen!

either or is good for me too.

Got the go ahead today for some coilovers!!! need to go for a run in your car clint to see how the V1's are. but from what ive read so far they are a good bit of kit, esp for the price.

Hoping to have it all sorted for happy laps in 2 weeks time!!

I so want to do SOMETHING to my car before happy laps. Dont want to go there and have the exact same car lol.... but i dont think funds are going to allow :(

But i do know that brakes are needing to be done.... would like to stop at turn 1!

I so want to do SOMETHING to my car before happy laps. Dont want to go there and have the exact same car lol.... but i dont think funds are going to allow :(

But i do know that brakes are needing to be done.... would like to stop at turn 1!

yeah stopping is always good. i had no drama with turn one...as i was being a little girly with my braking into it.

Turns out i got a 1-2 week wait on the coils......doubtful it will be sorted for then :(

Excuses

1st Q - I had a cheap FMIC on my 33 held pressure really well depends on what power you want to make if it is 200kw+ then spend the money on a good one to avoid pressure drop a FMIC doesn't really make power but it can sure as shit kill ti.

2nd Q- A boost T like the one I have in my 32 is great for starting out with and are good for making as much pressure as your stock turbo / wastegate can make, when your looking at serious numbers ( above 200kw's ) or want multiple boost settings then look at an electronic system, Note some manual ones are prone to spiking

Cheap coolers are a definite stay away from. If the money is spent in the right areas in the first place, then decent gains are easily achievable. There is nothing wrong with the good ol' turbosmart bleed valve. I'm running 1 on mine and don't have any issues with boost spike and run a constant 20psi, 425rwhp. Pete has somehow set it up to gradually feed as rpm increases. In my opinion there is really no need to have multiple boost settings as it can be all controlled by the right foot. The only thing that I'll be doing next, when I get a bit more HP, is get rid of the boost t and use a solenoid controlled by the wolf to have more control and stage the boost for drag use. If you use the computer to control the boost you get a nicer boost curve without massive spike like most EBC's do.

Hmm, guess i have alot to throw around to decide. Would the $700 blitz from justjap b what i am after then?

And with my front bar would i need to.cut it to fit the fmic?

Indian brothers weds night? Hopefully my cokd dissapates by 2morrow :/

Edited by Excuses

might have to talk the misses into coming but can't see it happening.

on another topic, anyone know a good performance mechanic around petrie lawnton strathpine brendale area?, i want to find a good reliable non over the top mechanic that can be trusted with my car to do some mods.

might have to talk the misses into coming but can't see it happening.

on another topic, anyone know a good performance mechanic around petrie lawnton strathpine brendale area?, i want to find a good reliable non over the top mechanic that can be trusted with my car to do some mods.

Do it Joe you know you want to, As for mechanics depends on mods as to who is good for them.

i do want to, but i'm not aloud to drive (damn boys in blue), as for mods, i'm not after crazy stupid like 1000RWHP, but am wanting to get the engine rebuilt with good forged internals, better cams, bigger turbo/injectors, ECU, pumps upgraded (whatever is needed), and of cause the handiling side of things, like coilovers, sway bars strut braces (these things will be done first before any more power is put in), and of cause the the stopping mechanisms, i believe they begin with a B :P

so yeah one that i can take to do all these sorts of things

Washed my car, think i might go and have a sook.. My front bar is looking so sad, paint cracking and coming off. sigh! Need to order the paint and get it resprayed booyea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...