Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

actually it will prob be less drinking, were topping more than a carton a night down here atm.

and plenty of gaming, ralf bought his PS3 and grabbed Skyrim, plus i been wowing it up on the laptop :P.

Trav has his PC here and been playing BF3....iots almost like a lan party at night....without the lan.

PS. sry i didnt call your back the other night clint, i saw the missed call just as i went to bed....and completely forgot until now.

so whose up for say a small gathering for a christmas party?

would love to, but im real busy before xmas. and already attending the SAU QLD xmas party / happy laps at lakeside. get in on that guys, it should be good :)

club members/partners are $25 a piece. non members are $50 a peice.

they were doing signup on the day at the Charity cruise and waiving the initial signup fee, which basically saves you most of it in one outting :)

My rims are toast. stupid teenager ran out in front of me as i came off the round about near the skate park, hit the anchors and went to swerve around him and the reward for not taking out the little waste of space: f**ked drivers side rims courtusey of a gutter (counter swing in the wet = gutter)

My rims are toast. stupid teenager ran out in front of me as i came off the round about near the skate park, hit the anchors and went to swerve around him and the reward for not taking out the little waste of space: f**ked drivers side rims courtusey of a gutter (counter swing in the wet = gutter)

dude, not good, hope your ok.

should make the runt pay for the repairs, if not replacements

dam man, that sucks :( time for some big offset jap spec wideness??

or is it repairable?? you'd be suprised what you can fix

Replacing with 2 of the same only costing $480 for the pair so not too bad.

I am gonna keep the old ones for skid pan days.

which sensor do you speak of?? not sure which you mean

i think you'll find its the stop start that does that. 350 does seem a bit low, but 400-450 can be expected in crap traffic. i thought my car was starting to have some issues like this recently, as my girl has been driving to and fro Clonarrrf in it for work, and getting poor fuel economy in lame ass traffic..........45-50 mins for 35km's is just wrong.

but after running to the gold coast and back this weekend, with the A/C blasting the whole time, plus some to and fro in regular (almost the speed limit sometimes) traffic, im looking at an easy 500 km tank.

the wife is only driving from Narangba(forest ridge near the BP on oakey flat road) to just near chooks matilda which is on old gympie road in the narangba industrial area near the highway so the traffic she sees is well.. none.. except the traffic lights at narangba station

even on a good burn down the highway we have not got over 460 to a tank

we run shell V power if that makes a difference

I was thinking it may have been the coolant temp sensor I believe it is called, I have read a few of the bad fuel economy threads and they seem to say it is usually the o2 sensor.. a dirty AFM or the coolant sensor or a heavy right foot

the only other thing i can think of it being is a dead cat? as it is still running the stock standard exhaust system

and the AC doesn't work(needs a regas i guess)

the wife is only driving from Narangba(forest ridge near the BP on oakey flat road) to just near chooks matilda which is on old gympie road in the narangba industrial area near the highway so the traffic she sees is well.. none.. except the traffic lights at narangba station

even on a good burn down the highway we have not got over 460 to a tank

we run shell V power if that makes a difference

I was thinking it may have been the coolant temp sensor I believe it is called, I have read a few of the bad fuel economy threads and they seem to say it is usually the o2 sensor.. a dirty AFM or the coolant sensor or a heavy right foot

the only other thing i can think of it being is a dead cat? as it is still running the stock standard exhaust system

and the AC doesn't work(needs a regas i guess)

Yeah could very well be that coolant temp sensor, It will leave a car in cold start mode which chews fuel like a mofo.

Alternatively it could also be your thermostat it has been known on rar occasions to remain mostly closed and as such it takes the car a long time to heat up all the collant and report back that the car isn't in cold start mode.

Update:

Fuel Pump - Delivered

FPR - shipped awaiting delivery

Turbo - Awaiting Delivery

AFM - Delivered

Injectors - Delivered

Just waiting on my FPR and turbo then I have all the parts to make her a monster.

Update:

FPR - Delivered

AFM Plug - Delivered

Turbo - Awaiting Delivery (hoping tomorrow)

The highflow won't turn up if it is being delivered to your house (which im sure it is at your work.. hmm.) i think ill use it for a while longer:P

Well, it's a toss up, new pc or split dump pipe.. swtor rocks up in 2 weeks, so i need to make a decision ><

thanks randomhero,

its next on our list of parts to replace, as well as somthing that is causing the front suspension to clunk when we are reverseing and brake, and now somtimes when braking going forward, but the steering is un affected

already replaced the castor rods with adjustable option 1 garage items, so its not those

are ball joints DIY'able ?? where is best place to aquire them?? bursons/repco or ebay or other??

I am used to regular aussie cars(all my previous cars were ford fairlanes.. ZL(XF shape), NA (EA shape), AU.. where parts are easy as pie to get from the usual sources

all this import part shenanigans is new to me haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...