Jump to content
SAU Community

Where Is The Knock Sensor On An Rb25Det?

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

This is the quote from some other thread but thought I'll start a more specific thread.

I'm noticing something in my car I wasn't before. I had a PFC with base tune and that thing used to register about 40 - 50 knock sometimes up to 100 knock. I got one now tuned for a stock R33 GTST with 10psi. I see about 4 on average on the knock sensor, very rarely shoots up to 10 - 30.

Now, originally I had the standard dump on the car and it was leaking coz of a crack and you could hear the look coming onto boost. I changed it out for a screamer split dump while my other one got fixed. Now I fit the other one back on and I get a weird sound which only seems to happen from 5krpm. It picked up my attention straight away. Ive never heard the sound before but it only happened when I got the old dump put back on after it was fixed. People say pinging sounds like the word, like a ping on metal. This sound I hear is more like a "chick" kind of sound, like a match getting striked on a match box. Ive had this car for about 3 months now and this is the first time Ive noticed it. It only happened since I put my dump back on.

Knock sensor on my PFC still wont show anything above 15.

As above, what do you guys think? Could it be an exhaust leak somewhere rather than anything else?

Also back to the topic of the thread, where are the damn knock sensors on the motor? Anyone able to label them on a diagram?

Cheers.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

bring it to me on the central coast i can road tune with a kmon knock box or we can dyno tune it on a weekday afternoon.

like i said in the other thread, try trimming the ign timing down 5 degrees to see if the noise is still there,

you shouldnt be boosting it around on an ecu not tuned for your car even if its tuned for a similar car with similar mods, theyre al different

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
    • DraftySquash
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
×
×
  • Create New...