Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everybody, does anyone know the measurements to a stock radiator in a R34 GTT. I'm looking at upgrading to a PWR product, If anyone has already done this what were the benefits you saw, how long did it take and how much did it cost.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357537-from-stock-radiator-to-pwr/
Share on other sites

Two bolts for shroud, two bolts for radiator top supports... bottom hose, flush coolant, remove top hose, remove radiator and replace.

Took me about 20 minutes to remove the old one and replace. Looks fat and will give you so much better cooling potential. Very worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.... next is silicone hoses and better clamps.

Also the radiator has nice strong alloy hose outlets, as opposed to crappy plastic ones that break in your hoses.

Thanks mate spoke to a guy called jamie at Natrad radiators in midvale said its top of the line in radiators, but also mentioned that if your at the lights it can creep up over half way on the thermostat, but as soon as you get going again it flys back down, do you think this is a huge problem or is it cause that the radiator is made out of aluminium. Also I'm gettin a Garrett GT30 turbo upgrade, bigger injectors and a airflow meter installed soon do you think that having the radiator put in will help keep everything cooler or be the same with a stock.

It will probably be the same as stock or better. Ebay aluminum radiators work a treat :) no problems with them so for a while.

Depends what you're using them for.

I had an ebay ally radiator and it used to heatsoak something horrid after half an hour on the hwy and temps would just steadily increase. It also couldn't handle a decent burnout on a 40deg day, would spit coolant everywhere.

Turfed it in favour of a stock 32GTR radiator and the difference was huge. Temps well under control, a good 2.5min burnout on a 40deg day would see no more than 105deg.

Also a FYI, temps WILL increase when stationary UNTIL hot enough to engage the clutch on the engine fan. If it gets TOO hot, the A/C fan will kick in.

Another FYI, you won't notice the needle on your factory temp gauge move until the temps are over 100deg.

  • 10 months later...

Nah not yet mate was gonna be the last of my engine mods, previous mods were tomei typeB camshafts, bigger rear housing on turbo, on top of other previous mods now running 324HP so pretty decent for everday car will post up when done and if increase in hp or better performance overall. Spoke to a guy a Natrad radiators a few times, so have a few other people on this site says there the shit, so i will have it done eventually.

Are you having overheating problems at the moment? Do you have an oil cooler?

I am running the stock radiator and clutch fan with 400rwhp and no overheating issues.. Got a bit hot on the AHG pan with then it was understandable considering the ambient temps.

An oil cooler would be of a lot greater assistance than going for a replacement radiator - unless it is faulty.

Are you having overheating problems at the moment? Do you have an oil cooler?

I am running the stock radiator and clutch fan with 400rwhp and no overheating issues.. Got a bit hot on the AHG pan with then it was understandable considering the ambient temps.

An oil cooler would be of a lot greater assistance than going for a replacement radiator - unless it is faulty.

Good point on the oil cooler. I'm not sure about the OP but my radiator is visually rusted inside so I'll conduct another flush and replacement. I'm also considering a cross-flow radiator. Anyone have any experience with the PWR crossflow (or any other company)?

  • 2 weeks later...

In all honesty mate spend your money on something else for your car.

My 32 is running a standard rad and after 5-6 laps of beating the piss out of it around barbs it is still only around about 115 deg.

IMO dont replace it unless it's broken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...