Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car i am looking to buy has one slight problem. When decelerating in 1st and 2nd gear, it makes a screaming noise. I have had a mechanical check on it and the inspector said it was a bearing in the gearbox. He went on to say change the oil to automatic oil and you will probably not notice it anymore.

I am not very keen on the whole changing oil thing and would rather get it fixed. Can anyone help me with what bearing it might be and costs involved.

I appreciate the help.

Cheers

:bond: - jsut had to use this!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35754-gearbox-screaming-on-deceleration/
Share on other sites

gearbox is on its way out...i had this problem with the misses focus...will cost alot to fix as the gearbox must be removed...not worth buying the car as it will cost a bit to fix...look around for another car...there are plenty of good skylines for sale in qld

I was really hoping that was not an option! But then again i had a feeling it would be this way!

The car is exactly what i am after! Oh well.

The mechanic said it was a certain bearing and would only cost $400ish to fix? He mentioned that it was only used during 1st and 2nd gears, hence the noise only being in 1st and 2nd.

How much for a complete new gearbox installed?

Yea sounds like the gearbox could be on its way out. What kind of car is it doofus?? Its hard to comment on the car if we dont know what it is. If you are handy on the tools, a second hand replacement gearbox should be no more than $600. Factor this into the price the seller is asking and put in a reasonable offer taking the gearbox problem into account.

Has anyone actually had this happen to their skyline. The mechanic actually told me it was not a major drama and would only cost $400ish, to replace a single bearing.

Just from a mechanic saying one bearing, to others saying gearbox is fu*ked. on driving the car the gearbox feels very solid, no crunching etc...

In what way is the gearbox wrecked?

sorry mate, all i knew is that both times my car made that sound was cos i thrashed the shit out of it, and then it blew. Then i got it fixed and it eventually happened again, this time when i was driving more sensibly.

If u r really interested, tell the owner u will buy the car if he gets it fixed b4 hand, and then u will pay the asking price, otherwise tell him to knock of 1500 for a new gbox.

remember when you go to buy a car and something goes wrong, the seller always says something like "don't worry about that mate, that's easily fixed". if it were as simple as an oil change then it would have been done already prior to selling as it would ensure a sale...

if the car looks in good nick then the gearbox is probably the reson its being sold.

keep looking... and good luck...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...