Jump to content
SAU Community

Craved - Revamp


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 184
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Chris,,,when and if the timings right I would be more than happy to talk about buying your inlet manifold :-).

Cheers

Neil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next:

  1. strip down all the piping and clean up the insides of all the pipes
  2. got my new 0.6 rollers for the MIG and a new gun and lead (currently setup for Alloy MIG welding) - so weld up the pipe pass throughs and finalise the front reo welds
  3. make supports for the rear of the front bar
  4. re-run vacuum hose to the boost controller from the plenum - old setup had nipples on the turbo outlet pipe
  5. make a plug for the Pcv holes in both plenum and cam cover
  6. connect up inlet pipe
  7. start it :P

Well this list is completed and the car is running again.

Just waiting on the pins for the rear calipers to hold the pads in place (custom machined pins due to the spacers inside the caliper) then off to a wheel alignment later this week.

Chris,,,when and if the timings right I would be more than happy to talk about buying your inlet manifold :-).

Cheers

Neil.

No worries Neil :)

Few updates:

one big hiccup, noticed a small amount weeping of coolant weeping from the water outlet in the plenum, so i tightened the hose clamp.............and crack!

IMG_3351.jpg

whoops

IMG_3350.jpg

Off to UAS for a replacement and had the new outlet pipe installed in about 20 mins.

In order to attract less attention from the police i have started prepping a street boot that i have shaved over the last couple of nights.

IMG_3352.jpg

IMG_3353.jpg

IMG_3354.jpg

IMG_3355.jpg

Will get this painted up and installed this week hopefully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i took the boot around to a painter....

was told that i over heated the panel and stretched it, and that it wont block flat without heat shrinking the boot (granted that it was a little hot and the boot skin does flex more than std) and that i should find a new boot and start with that.

so i went and spent $31 on some acrylic GMH black paint and a spray primer.

primed, dried, wet sanded then gave it a couple of coats of black. just wish the spray gun i had was a little more reliable and would spray a nice consistent pattern, turned out ok, flash certainly makes it look worse.

IMG_3363.jpg

IMG_3364.jpg

IMG_3365.jpg

Will block it again and give another coat later when i can get a better gun, or someone who is a better painter than me to give it a go :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got the boot installed last night when a mate came around, its not really a one man job.

hopefully get the pins back today, so i can drive the car out and give it a wash :)

Also swapped out my Sard FPR for a nismo item, much neater install now - just a bit fiddly testing the pressure before the swap and after. Just glad my mechanic lent me his guage for a couple of hours for it.

Nismo FPR is super easy to adjust.

Still some troubleshooting to be done, my idle is a bit dicky after 55 degrees water temp, tap the throttle and it idles at 2000rpm. This can be driven out by doing a lap of the block, or by disconnecting the AAC's plug.

Might download the powerFC's map to the laptop and do a reset, then reload the map see if the idle learning procedure makes a difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris, before resetting the tune, have you put some magic Subaru Upper Cylinder Head treatment through it?

I did mine (Many years back now) by ripping it all apart and scrubbing it blah blah blah... Still had gunk in it... Did the ol' Subaru treatment to it, by spraying the subaru shitdown through the actual AAC valve (You'll need someone to hold the revs up for you as it will cough and splutter like a bitch!)

I'm thinking it might be a gummed up AAC is all...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers Daniel, will have to start hunting for them, also need the loom for it too .. sigh lol

hmm Matt, this is different to their in oil treatments? so like a carbie cleaner product?

subaru service centre is just at the front of my complex so might be able to get some today

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gave it a run around the complex, handbrake needs adjusting and a wheel alignment big time.. few rattles in my cold side piping as its not permanant.

gave her a rinse too, might try a proper wash tomorrow

IMG_3384.jpg

IMG_3394.jpg

IMG_3398.jpg

IMG_3403.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

going to lower the rear 10mm, that should raise the front the 3mm i need to be legal there.

might also need to get the guards rolled before i correct out all the camber on the rear during the wheel alignment that will hopefully take place later in the week

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers Daniel, will have to start hunting for them, also need the loom for it too .. sigh lol

hmm Matt, this is different to their in oil treatments? so like a carbie cleaner product?

subaru service centre is just at the front of my complex so might be able to get some today

Yeah it's like a carby cleaner, you spray it in while she's running, throw it down the pipe that leads to The aac valve. It'll wanna stall, you'll beer two people one to keep te revs up the other one to spray.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the idle is relearning as its getting better- found that the IAC under the plenum was unplugged lol so fixed that

also adjusted the handbrake so its real loose now to protect the alloy drums.

felt a clicking in the brakes, turned out it was just the master cyl stopper was a bit loose so tightened that up and the brakes feel alot firmer and more touchy than before i swapped to the brembo's

Hopefully the brake shop i use still has the bias testers so i can see what the brakes are doing as i suspect the rears are working harder than the fronts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anyone got a spare r33 gtst series 1 clutch slave cylinder? left leg is too weak for the clutch now lol - get a spare bored out to 20.54mm or similar like the nismo slaves. well if tis cheaper than the $154 i'd pay getting the nismo one shipped over from JPN

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • Hi People, has anyone come up with a way of getting non-driven wheel speed on a R32 Gts/gtst? from what i've seen the RWD R32 didn't look to come with ABS, if they did i can't find a rwd ABS front knuckle anywhere. is it a case of putting a S14/R33 front knuckle on and then modifying the ASB ring to suit a ECU input frequency limit? or have people managed to get a hall sensor onto the back of the hub and pick up the wheel studs?   i've searched but there isn't anything that I could find.
    • I was thinking about a hoist, the ceiling is very high, but half the garage has a half-height loft for storage and I dont think I'll even be able to jack the X5 up under it as it almost hits me in my 6'5" elevated head when i walk in there. And, yeah nah, maybe if I can convince Bec to let me get another car she'd be open to having as many as we can fit (cough @Duncan) but until that time you better steer clear! 🤣
    • For the sake of cost comparison, I’m currently embarking on putting a new 5 speed into my R33. I imported a new RB25DET gearbox from Japan, which was about AU$3.3k delivered to my door. It was a very slow process (~2 months) and I got extremely lucky with the exchange rate. The twin plate clutch I bought was about AU$1.8k. I've also had to buy all the additional parts required to convert the gearbox from a pull type clutch to a push type clutch. Total cost is about AU$5.5k, so GTSBoy is pretty close to the money.
    • Yeah, The Japanese had/have a problem with doing crap like that to undeserving shitboxen.
    • I run a CD009. See my DIY for info on what I spent. 6800$ isn't cheap, but it's not terrible either.   Keep in mind, you'll still need the following parts. - Shifter relocation kit - Trans Mount - Driveshaft - Slave Cylinder - Rear final drive (This doesn't have to be done right away.) - Some new way to detect speed. 
×
×
  • Create New...