Craved - Revamp

[R3N3]

what steering wheel is that? the car looks awesome too, love the 34 seats.

[Miguelone]

How well did the rear seats fit in? Just bolt straight up? Any noticeable gaps/overlapp where they don't line up properly?

[DaveO74]

I've seen the rears and I couldn't see any gaps, looks to be a good fit.

Hey Chris what size gauges can you fit in the din pocket spot? I remember seeing somewhere a triple gauge holder the has the gauges tilted towards the driver but I can't remember where. Might save you some fabbing. I'm thinking of doing the same thing for oil, h2o & ???? Maybe boost?

Now teach me how to weld will ya!

[MBS206]

I have my boost gauge down there, and there is a MAJOR problem, it's WAYYY out of your peripheral vision.

Either on the A-Pillar, or in the cluster/above/beside it.

Down in the console is wayyyy too far out of view.

[pistol-pete]

what steering wheel is that? the car looks awesome too, love the 34 seats.

its a nardi mate

[Craved]

love it mate , really god progress so far

the seats look sex

cheers, right place right time with those, alot more work than just bolting them in for me since i had to weld on the mounts from the stock seats, but a bargain is never a bargain... but i could fix it easy enough so its still a bargain

what steering wheel is that? the car looks awesome too, love the 34 seats.

Yeah its a nardi deep corn. pricey bits of gear - picked it up from the tuners group.

How well did the rear seats fit in? Just bolt straight up? Any noticeable gaps/overlapp where they don't line up properly?

there is a small gap at the very outer edges of the rear seats between the back rest and the base, probably 10mm- i'll just have to put some black fabric/carpet behind there as the dynamat's reflective surface makes it more obvious if you are in the exact right position.

I've seen the rears and I couldn't see any gaps, looks to be a good fit.

Hey Chris what size gauges can you fit in the din pocket spot? I remember seeing somewhere a triple gauge holder the has the gauges tilted towards the driver but I can't remember where. Might save you some fabbing. I'm thinking of doing the same thing for oil, h2o & ???? Maybe boost?

Now teach me how to weld will ya!

i'll be running 2 1/16 inch autometer guages. Cant justify the cost of DEFI's etc at this point since i already have the guages. autometer also have angle bevels for their guages, so can run them to help increase visibility - thanks for the reminder, have to add them to the list lol - the only premade DINN slots i have seen have been heavily staggered and dont really look all that neat in my opinion.

I can teach you to weld if you like, just let me know when you need a lesson, or have something you need to build

I have my boost gauge down there, and there is a MAJOR problem, it's WAYYY out of your peripheral vision.

Either on the A-Pillar, or in the cluster/above/beside it.

Down in the console is wayyyy too far out of view.

Fair call, but other than in the illegal positions there is very little room for guages. As you can see in the old pic of the interior i did make an attempt at moving guages into more visible positions. However, if you cant take a little time to glance down then you are too busy driving and shouldnt be looking at guages lol

ID3 has some boost logging capabilities and i never really looked at my old boost guage - 7 on the stock guage is approx 1 Bar, if its less on the guage then i have an issue, overboost has a warning on the ID3.

I'll be setting up a series of hobbs switches linked to displays while im building the 30, so it can tell me if there are major issues going on anyway

hopefully i can keep up with the work on it as i try to fit everything into this 3 day week, will see how we go

[Moanie]

zomg!! Its the Craved Mobile!!! How I miss seeing that thing cruising the streets

Its looking good Chris... can't wait to see the finished product!!

ps: i still want those GTR seats! lol!

[MBS206]

Quite true there Chris, I keep thinking more in terms of track vehicles, where as you're in the street build side.

On the street it won't be too bad, as you're not hounding it.

I'm going to be remounting gauges up in a more "visible" area in my peripheral as I'll be tracking it alot.

[Craved]

if it was a track car i'd rip out the stock speedo cluster and make my own

hopefully lights, buzzers linked to hobbs switches will be enough to warn me. they can be a little annoying on start up though haha

Mona, stay away from my seats

[Craved]

Little bit of progress today

Dummied up the intercooler piping to get the RB25 running again.

Welding is definately improving

[DaveO74]

Chris are you going to be putting the standard tb on there for your dummy startup?

The reason I ask is I wanna see what you do with the coolant lines into the bottom (or top when inverted) when using the plazmaman.

Btw my intake mani is heading your way soon for more chrome coating just gotta clean it up. Told you I'd find more stuff!

Looking good dude

[zebra]

What are you doing with the 3040 when the 26/30 goes in?

Hint hint

[Craved]

Chris are you going to be putting the standard tb on there for your dummy startup?

The reason I ask is I wanna see what you do with the coolant lines into the bottom (or top when inverted) when using the plazmaman.

Btw my intake mani is heading your way soon for more chrome coating just gotta clean it up. Told you I'd find more stuff!

Looking good dude

cheers

you dont need the water lines to the TB as there is little chance of the TB icing up in cold weather i just used some pliers to wiggle the fittings out of the TB body.

I got a couple of rb25 runners at the shop, so take a photo of yours and send it to me so i can be sure its the right one (apparently there are some differences)

What are you doing with the 3040 when the 26/30 goes in?

Hint hint

keeping it lol

rb25 = 291rwkw on 18 psi with the poncams, so should still be enough to run on the 26/30 and make the 300rwkw mark without too much effort.

i have the 0.87 and a 1.12 rear housings so flow wise it shouldnt run out with those options, but i just want it more streetable at this stage so the 0.87 will stay on we'll see what it gets

[zebra]

Damn lol

Should be good

[Craved]

oh yeah Dave, the engine bay is almost back together now so you can see it running in a week or so

Also while it looks strange with the 2 lots of silicon off the turbo outlet, the blue pipe is a 2.5 to 3 inch reducer, got my delivery in from JNT performance but didnt want to waste one of the alloy reducers i got until i do the final piping on the 26/30. I'll have to upgrade the exh manifold for the 26 head so most rb26 manifolds sit the turbo more forward than this one ( flange is behind the centre line of the runners)so both intake and outlet will need to be changed

Next:

1. strip down all the piping and clean up the insides of all the pipes
   
2. got my new 0.6 rollers for the MIG and a new gun and lead (currently setup for Alloy MIG welding) - so weld up the pipe pass throughs and finalise the front reo welds
   
3. make supports for the rear of the front bar
   
4. re-run vacuum hose to the boost controller from the plenum - old setup had nipples on the turbo outlet pipe
   
5. make a plug for the Pcv holes in both plenum and cam cover
   
6. connect up inlet pipe
   
7. start it
   

[Craved]

Damn lol

Should be good

haha - they make good power on the 1jz motor too - mate used to work at ASA and they put one in an IS200 that had the same GT3040 on it and it was easily over 300rwkw.

have seen them still for sale, think they are well under the price i paid for mine 7-8 years ago lol

[DaveO74]

I'll send you some pics tonight mate, I've got to get of my ass and update my build thread anyway. (not that I'm as far as you, only manage to take things off so far lol)

You do know that I'll want it all smooth and stuff don't you?

[Craved]

Sent my RB30 block off to get machined at Windsor engine reconditioning. full engine clean, hone and removal and grub screwing of the oil gallery plugs.

got it back yesterday so did some work on it til late last night

Lick of paint

Then some threebond and installed the welch plugs

Then dummy assembled the motor to check the clearances with plastiguage

running 3 thou clearance on the bearings.

Block went back to windsor engines today for decking after the paint process was completed. Also sent over the crank this time for machining for the crank collar, grub screwing and a polish of the journals.

Took some time tonight to weld up the chassis passthroughs in teh engine bay now i have the 0.6 wire and rollers etc.

Quick grind witha flapper wheel, then a coat of rattle can paint for the moment. will smooth it out and get the rest of the holes welded up once the motor is removed.

Will work on welding the sump this week for the oil temp sensor, get that coated up ready for final assembly when i get the block and crank back.

[GTRsean]

Nice work there. Ain't it great to have a workshop!!!

[Craved]

yeah, but even a garage with the tools i have in it would be fine for this sorta stuff.

now if i had a hoist, be totally different story lol