Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've started looking into graphics cards and have been wondering whether to go a high end older card or a mid-range newer card.

One factor is the directx support. I had no idea what the difference was until I stumbled across this thread (yes, it's from 2009) that explains and shows the differences very well.

http://www.overclock...-vs-dx-9-a.html

I tried using the ol' search button but didn't find anything explaining the differences.

Here are some pics of the same scene, but under the different versions.

post-51176-0-87321700-1300341311_thumb.jpg

post-51176-0-50216500-1300341329_thumb.jpg You'll notice that the differences between DX9 and 10 are minimal with only better shading and light

post-51176-0-42146100-1300341362_thumb.jpg DX11 is like a whole different league; more 3Dness so to speak - the biggest change is the detail in the road.

I know it's an old subject and I'm a couple of years behind but I figured it's good to know the differences. DX11 is definitely the way to go.

Windows XP - DX9 ONLY

Windows Vista - DX10 (can be updated to DX11)

Windows 7 - DX11

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357762-directx-11-vs-dx10-vs-dx9/
Share on other sites

i would go Dx11 no point going backwards

and something like ati 6870 1gb is pretty cheap nowadays

http://msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=6837 $229

i can only find 1 Nvidia in a similar price range

http://msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=7305 $277 GTX560

the 6870 is probably a higher binned 6850. So whilst it may work on most cards, there is potentially a portion that won't work after flashing it. I could be wrong though, cbf researching.

BTW that directx 11 shot seems to be showing off tesselation more than anything ;)

the 6870 is probably a higher binned 6850. So whilst it may work on most cards, there is potentially a portion that won't work after flashing it. I could be wrong though, cbf researching.

BTW that directx 11 shot seems to be showing off tesselation more than anything ;)

Well apparently that's what dx11 is all about. It's basically dx10 but with completely revamped tesselation properties.

I think instead of having multiple levels/layers of models, they have only two. Dx10 and earlier would have the lowest detailed model up close covered by the next level, covered again by another level and so on; therefore all levels are loaded for up close models even though we only see the last level/layer. Dx11 on the other hand will only load the highest detailed model close up until a certain distance and then change to the low detailed model.

6850 is same as a 6870, with minor diffs, but you reflash bios and it works 100%, out of the 30-40ish ppl i know on the overclocking forums, all their cards work fine :)

DO IT!!!

i for one, just bought the gtx570 which just kicks pure assssss!!!

I've started looking into graphics cards and have been wondering whether to go a high end older card or a mid-range newer card.

One factor is the directx support. I had no idea what the difference was until I stumbled across this thread (yes, it's from 2009) that explains and shows the differences very well.

http://www.overclock...-vs-dx-9-a.html

I tried using the ol' search button but didn't find anything explaining the differences.

Here are some pics of the same scene, but under the different versions.

post-51176-0-87321700-1300341311_thumb.jpg

post-51176-0-50216500-1300341329_thumb.jpg You'll notice that the differences between DX9 and 10 are minimal with only better shading and light

post-51176-0-42146100-1300341362_thumb.jpg DX11 is like a whole different league; more 3Dness so to speak - the biggest change is the detail in the road.

I know it's an old subject and I'm a couple of years behind but I figured it's good to know the differences. DX11 is definitely the way to go.

Windows XP - DX9 ONLY

Windows Vista - DX10 (can be updated to DX11)

Windows 7 - DX11

in dx11 that road is retarded, theres no way anyone could walk on that without twisting an ankle

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-:(' timestamp='1300745012' post='5724470]

in dx11 that road is retarded, theres no way anyone could walk on that without twisting an ankle

Haha. Fk driving on it too. Stiff suspension + road like that = fkd spine; and forget it if your busting for a piss.

Hey guys,

I just installed a genuine copy of Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium.

I am not sure if my operating system is now running Direct X 11. How can I tell or where do I search in Windows 7 to find if it is?

My PC specs are as follows (if its of any importance) -

  • Intel Quad Core 3.2ghz
  • 4.0gb 1333mhz ram (yes I know that's sh!t, i'm upgrading to 12gb 2000mhz soon!)
  • Gigabyte 1gb graphics card (can't remember the exact model name, paid about $300 for it just over 12months ago)
  • Asus mother-board (once again can't remember specs etc)

My PC runs games such a COD: Black Cocks & Battlefield: Bad Company 2 one maximum graphics and runs both of them smooooooooth as silk, both in singleplayer & multiplayer. WoW runs perfectly smooth, you get the idea.

I'm pretty sure my graphics card is an ATI Radeon HD 4850.

It seems to perform very well, and when i had XP and the Catalyst Control Centre installed, i overclocked it and it still ran fine and didnt overheat etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Or get a guy in his early fiftys to do it. A single good "oof" and about two cracks from his lower back is about the right tightness...
    • It's impossible to convey what it will feel like to get the right torque. But you can develop a feel for it. A 900mm breaker bar is.....f**king huge. I only use a normal ~400mm one. But with 900mm being very nearly a metre, and the right torque being in the order of 100Nm, then you're going to need a bit over 100N of force, which is about 10 kg. So if you practice using the bar pulling up, instead of pushing down, then it will be about the same effort as lifting a 10kg bucket of water. That's what the pressure against your fingers should feel like. Ish. If you use a more typical length breaker, then it's about twice that. So a good 20 litre bucket, or a little bit more.
    • Also, if anyone has a torque wrench around Williams Landing area and can lend it to me for like 5 mins - I got 4 bottles of Furphy left and I’ll throw that in with a Happy meal 😂
    • So today I decided to bleed my brake fluid, which meant to the wheels came off the car at my garage for the first time. I only had a 90cm breaker bar with me and I noticed that some 1 or 2 lug nuts were a bit hard to get loose (from when the shop did the coilovers) Now.... when it came to putting them back on, I didn't want to put all my weight and overtighten them. So I hand tightened as much as possible and then put normal pressure on the edge of the breaker bar and tightened it until I couldn't turn it anymore without putting in an effort. Do you think that is tight enough? Or is that still too tight?  They are tighter than finger tight. Last thing I want is to have them strip or warp sh*t. But hard times mean I can't just go down to Supercheap and get a torque wrench 🥺
    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
×
×
  • Create New...