Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

was just wanting to see if anyone knew anything about this GTR or seen it.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=1&R=9489616&keywords=&trecs=4&__sid=12E46D0BCB77&__Ns=pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&__Qpb=true&__Nne=15&SearchAction=N&seot=1&__N=1216 1282 4294963846 1622 4294963593 4294950656 4294804078&silo=1011

Im from adelaide and am considering travelling to sydney to check it out but the last few times ive done this its ended up with me flying back home empty handed and paying for flights...soo if anyone has any info on it so i can save my time and money it would be much appreciated.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357765-can-anyone-help-with-this-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

sorry I don't personally know the car but from the pics it looks pretty nice. the only thing that rings a small alarm bell with me is the "$1000 of resin work to restore the bonnet". that's an odd one. the VSII carbon bonnets are very nicely made and come painted on top and bare carbon underneath (with the vent also bare). not sure what happened to it that it needed a $1,000 repair job?

I'm also a bit suspect on the 49,500 kms. I have seen a few R34 GTRs with that many kms. yes they are 10 years old, but a VSII with 50,000kms should have very firm seat bolsters still, that one looks a bit worn (though it could be from an overweight driver, a heavy driver will wear the bolster out much quicker than usual).

all in all I'd say if you're after a VSII in white then it's definitely worth checking out.

Just by looking at the NACA duct, I can tell it has fresh clear on it. The factory clear is not that shiny and it does fade and crack around that area. Why Nissan did not paint the duct with same colour as the car is beyond me. Perhaps they have a good reason for this.

Like Beer has mentioned, the bolster would be a concern as well. A big guy would definitely accelerate the wear and tear.

Personally, I would never judge a car by it's kms, especially an import and more so, a GT-R. Most of them seems to have super low kms which is total bollocks. Only a small percentage would be genuine and would believe it more if it comes with history.

Looks like the RH front guard has been removed as the bolt heads appear to have little or not paint in them, but it might just be the picture.

A white engine bay is good to inspect. The more kms she's travelled, the more "off white" colour you can observe. You can also tell straight away if there's any repairs done because a newer white respray will never match the old colour unless the entire engine bay has been resprayed. I've seen it once before where the whole bay was resprayed and was just too shiny to be a factory job.

Bit of surface rust on the rear diffuser support bracket. Mine has no signs of rust and it's still original. I would look further underneath for potential rust issues.

^ ^ ^ well said!

OP you certainly have experts here in Richard and Eugene to guide you re: possible rust, damage, signs of wear 'n tear, genuineness of odo etc.

That NACA Duct clear does crack in Aussie sun or even with pollution mixed with the elements in Japan.

The owner obviously had that cut back and repainted to the extent that the C/F look is no longer there. The finish could be a bit better tho'

Because it's looking to be a fine prospect...

Would the owner be willing to allow the car to be put up on a hoist and inspected by someone who knows their BNR34s?

cheers for all the help guys,

sounds like its still worth a trip to sydney to check it out but im still very suspicious about it.

I will keep you updated on it if i end up going.

there are companies that specilize in written reports on cars (other than RACQ) that do a really good job. right down to compression check magnetting for bog etc etc.

i had this done for my GTST. so i would def do it for any GTR.

it might cost you a few hundred. but they are very thorough and probably still cheaper than the flight.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be looking at the mentioned EFR kit, room to turn it up if decide on e85 (which we know you will) and be super responsive and fun on the street. OR https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/?srsltid=AfmBOorrJa2S76JR5ekXprxBOtU44a1UProbe64YaiVi9zTVp1Lj814w And add whooshy noise for extra fun C5 corvette prices are coming down locally here and a mate has a manual one and is a heap of fun on the street and track.
    • I have an Elite 2500, honestly most of this has been a lot of smaller tasks chasing little details and a whole lot of life getting in the way of bigger projects. I don't mind too much looking at a spectrograph vs having audio knock ears. 
    • Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P
    • Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right??? I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics  Cheers for the useful information 
×
×
  • Create New...