Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All the items I'm selling are in good condition and are off an r33 gts-t series 1 4 door automatic. The car had done about 125,000kms. I'm located at redbank plains brisbane but I am willing to post interstate as well. If pictures are required feel free to ask.

  • hks mushroom pod filter (will bolt straight to the air flow meter) $10
  • rear garnish (the 'skyline' lettering is slightly faded but the garnish itself is completly intact) $5
  • s13 front bar clear indicators (brand new) $10
  • auto ecu (this is the smaller ecu not the main one) x2 $5 each
  • main auto ecu $10
  • rear wiper arm (doesn't include motor or any other parts) $5
  • passenger sun visor with mirror ( is a bit dirty but will clean up fine) $5
  • automatic tranny fluid dipstick $2
  • headlight eyelids (these have a gloss black finish and look quite nice but I'm not a fan of them) $5
  • Complete boot fuse box assembly (fuses included as well) $15
  • passenger footwell cover (the bit of plastic that hides the ecu) $5
  • dash center vents $5
  • rear view mirror assembly $5
  • interior light assembly (the one that switches on when doors are open. no bulb incuded) $2
  • hkb steering wheel boss kit (I was told that it was also hicas compatible but I can take a picture if required) $10
  • map interior light assembly (no bulbs included) $5
  • stock fuel pump assembly ( had no issues, was only removed to upgrade to bigger pump) $10
  • power steering fluid reservoir cap $2
  • grip handles ( the ones you hold onto above your head) x2 $2 each
  • boot gas struts ( left and right both in good working order) $5 for both
  • throttle body gasket (was about 1 year old prior to taking it off the car) $5
  • dash clock assembly $5
  • dash coin holder $2
  • stock cat converter $5

Please do not ask for any other parts because this is absolutely everything!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357885-cheap-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

Adding a couple more parts...

Stock R33 intercooler (good condition, removed for bigger intercooler) $10

Factory R33 washer bottle (good condition, bit dirty and in need of a wash. washer motors not included) $10

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357885-cheap-r33-parts/#findComment-5743590
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

also have a couple more parts to add to the list.

factory rubber intake pipe (pod filter to turbo) great condition $10

R33 series 1 front bumper indicators great condition bulbs included $10

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357885-cheap-r33-parts/#findComment-5830807
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I was going to say, "Is the wastegate set up so that it is not leaking?" That's actually a different thing to what you're asking about. In theory, if you have allowed the two halves of the manifold to commmunicate (more than the stock manifold does - which is at least a little bit) then the negative effect should be apparent in delayed spool, not in outrigth power. OK, maybe just maybe, a badly set up twin scroll wastegate "crosstalk" might kill the top end, although it's hard to see how. What is happening with the original wastegate in the turbo? is it sealed off properly. If it's left flapping in the breeze, it will f**k everything up. If it is still there, and can be returned to service, I'd be capping off the external (presuming the two halves can and will be isolated from each other after doing so) and have a go with just the stock wastegate. I have an internal wastegate in my highflowed rear housing. The bigger opening and flapper should be fine to >250 rwkW. So there's not exactly a pressing reason to have the external. Done right, an external will give better results. Done wrong, it might just be possible to have worse results. Report back!
    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
×
×
  • Create New...