Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

Bought my 2002 Stagea AXIS a week ago, very happy with it so far!!!

Thought i'd jump on here and meet others and hopefully learn more about the car itself.

first mod that comes to mind is fitting an Apexi turbo timer, seeing even a 2 minute drive up the road to the shops driving it sensibly (under 3000rpm) and letting it idle for 30sec's before i turned it off still made it unhappy on startup.

on the longer drives its alright i try and keep it of boost before i get there and let it idle for around 3mins and its alright, but i feel its going to piss me off waiting on every little trip........ and this way the motor will alway be protected.

i'll put up some pic's of her but she's just the normal stock silver axis.

cheers, LAMBCHOPS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357886-lambchop-with-a-renault-axis-here/
Share on other sites

Welcome, hope you enjoy your stay. What state you located?

There is plenty of info here about mods and options and power, susp, brakes etc etc

If you have a question, check out a search first, it might have been covered before- if not post away!

just updated my profile, im in western sydney...... ive already spotted another M35 in my area :)

was hallarious the 2nd day of having the car a guy comes up to me at the servo and asks if its a volvo...... (yes ive read all the storries on here) i just pissed myself laughing cos it only took 2 days.

the plugs are fine, car was serviced when i got it.

it starts fine other than when i think i havent let it cool enough before shutting it off.

havent got any pic's of it yet other than the ones i took off carsales..

no goodies on it that i know of...... which i reakon is a good thing.

the mod's im considering so far is:

BMC air filter, fit an oil temp guage and pressure guage, and a cat back exhaust.

cant even hear the exhaust note over the turbo whine LOL :(

nice i wish i bought an AXIS lol.

oh i have a dump back exhaust im trying to sell that bolts right up to the stock dump? whistling.gif

i wouldnt have bought anything other than an axis the others look like dog's balls LOL plus the extra's are awesome.

to bad your interstate, altho the axis is 206KW so that exhaust probly wont help me much aye

Haha, more like 130awkw though, we don't measure at the engine... :whistling:

I think the AXIS looks like balls, thats exactly why I went the AERO. :)

Exactly what I think & did, although I wouldn't like to criticise another man's car (out loud). As long as your happy witth your choice, that's all that matters.

As far as the list of goodies goes, some of the other models can come optioned up pretty well. Mine is an RS and, besides the Aero body kit, has leather electric seats, dual sunroofs, TV, tilt down mirrors, alarm/central locking, & probably other stuff I've forgotten. And because it didn't come with the fully integrated dash, can easily accomodate aftermarket GPS/DVD/bluetooth/Ipod etc device.

I'm not too sure actually what's left besides a LSD & heated seats (yuck... :yucky: )

Heated seats are damn good in winter. But on several occasions I've bumped the switch without realising it and my balls gets toasted..

yeah i just went on a 4day weekend with the boys and they thought it'd be funny everytime i wasnt looking to hit the seat warmers FFS might have to disable them.......... they're really not neccessary.

Exactly what I think & did, although I wouldn't like to criticise another man's car (out loud). As long as your happy witth your choice, that's all that matters.

well to clear it up alittle, its the noncolour coded bars etc and the subaru outback stance, it just looked better with the 18's and the flaired wheel arches.

mind you i do have to say altho the grill and front bar match with the wheels i must say the front is the ugliest side to look at.

but in saying that im not gonna waste 1000's on replacing the front with a R35 for the sheer dollar facter and besides it would take all the fun out of the car by being to recogniseable HAHA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...