Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's the story behind the car with the truck exhaust? :sick: It must be a joke...

its actually a pretty common thing in some groups in japan!!! alot of cars are styled just like that celica..............

its actually a pretty common thing in some groups in japan!!! alot of cars are styled just like that celica..............

Haha, I love the use of the term 'styled'. Like trailer parks sometimes get 'styled' by tornados :laugh:.

its actually a pretty common thing in some groups in japan!!! alot of cars are styled just like that celica..............

Wouldn't say it was pretty common though............ - exhaust is derived from the JDM trend 'Bosozoku style' and the flares are commonly combined with what the Japanese call 'low ride' and is known as 'Shakotan style'...

Edited by prince_skyline
  • 2 weeks later...

i bought a trans temp guage hoping to have a look under the car tomorrow for a spot to install the prob in the sump or maybe in the outlet fluid line to the cooler.............

i bought a trans temp guage hoping to have a look under the car tomorrow for a spot to install the prob in the sump or maybe in the outlet fluid line to the cooler.............

I'd be looking to braze/weld a bung into the sump. Best spot for it.:thumbsup: In the fluid line; you won't know what's going on when in manual mode (the GB isolates the cooler circuit) which is probably when you need it the most.

I've been idly wondering about the worth of welding a series of bungs into the trans sump (or a 1/2"plate tapped with BSP threads) one for temp gauge, one for a temp switch and a couple for a low pressure electric pump fed external cooler.

This would get around the issue of the gearbox bypassing the cooler then in manual tiptronic mode (when it's needed most). I know people reliably use small low pressure VDO pumps to scavenge and return oil to the sump in turbo setups where the drains are below sump level.

That said; it might be a bit more effort and expanse than is absolutely necessary...

An interesting thread for some detail; http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

Edited by Daleo

I'd be looking to braze/weld a bung into the sump. Best spot for it.:thumbsup: In the fluid line; you won't know what's going on when in manual mode (the GB isolates the cooler circuit) which is probably when you need it the most.

exactly!!!! some people might think its a waste of time but i think its important seeing as i have it in manual mode 90% of the time and i dont want to destroy the fluid or the GB.

I've been idly wondering about the worth of welding a series of bungs into the trans sump (or a 1/2"plate tapped with BSP threads) one for temp gauge, one for a temp switch and a couple for a low pressure electric pump fed external cooler.

yeah might aswell get 4 bungs put in cant hurt really.

If you drive around in manual a lot why don't you try Aaron and Scotty's unlock mod? Its on here somewhere if you search, or I've got it bookmarked at home. Makes the cooler work all the time, even when it's in manual mode.

I'm looking at doing it when I get the shift kit and trans cooler in.

If you drive around in manual a lot why don't you try Aaron and Scotty's unlock mod? Its on here somewhere if you search, or I've got it bookmarked at home. Makes the cooler work all the time, even when it's in manual mode.

I'm looking at doing it when I get the shift kit and trans cooler in.

Doesn't that unlock the converter too?

I'd just like to be able to run the cooler when in manual mode with the converter locked. I'm pretty sure the unlock mod is pretty devastating for fuel economy too...

Doesn't that unlock the converter too?

I'd just like to be able to run the cooler when in manual mode with the converter locked. I'm pretty sure the unlock mod is pretty devastating for fuel economy too...

I'd heard that from Aaron, & it would want to be a great mod before I decided to go backwards on fuel economy. My ethos is always 'more for less', & I'm not sure that mod fits the job description.

yeah there's no way im doing wire cut mods........ and yeah the idea of the converter always being open and loosing power and fuel ecconomy its not worth it!!!!

Dale's idea with an external feed/pump to a cooler is probly the best way of doing it!!!

yeah there's no way im doing wire cut mods........ and yeah the idea of the converter always being open and loosing power and fuel ecconomy its not worth it!!!!

Dale's idea with an external feed/pump to a cooler is probly the best way of doing it!!!

I don't think you lose power as such; because the converter is open, it'll actually build boost quicker because it flares a little.

The only issues I can see are the obvious necessity of a $250 pump & attendant lines, and a cooler; that's before you factor in modifying the sump with internal pick up and returns at opposite ends, to ensure you're cooling effectively, not just re-cooling the oil that just came out of the return.

Also, it's added complication when a decent sized cooler and a thermostat will probably do the job 90% of the time.

  • 2 weeks later...

Tell me if I'm wrong, but surely driving in manual mode for a few minutes and then chucking it back in D would be fine? Let everything cool off and then have some fun again?

I fairly regularly drop it back into 2nd to drive through a roundabout and then chuck it back into D. *shrugs*

Tell me if I'm wrong, but surely driving in manual mode for a few minutes and then chucking it back in D would be fine? Let everything cool off and then have some fun again?

I fairly regularly drop it back into 2nd to drive through a roundabout and then chuck it back into D. *shrugs*

It depends on load I guess.....I know when my car was stock it was not a huge issue going across the gate all the time but I never stayed there more than a couple of minutes. But... with a little bit of HP/NM the standard GB cooks pretty quickly(better once the HD2 kit is done)........a couple of minutes wont hurt though imo......best idea is to knock it across the gate after the second gear shift.......with the standard turbo revving the thing to 6,500rpm is a waist anyway + your already doing over 110km's.

Mind you Paul you will find after you do a couple of the VB's a difference in oil colour between those who drive across the gate all the time and those that don't.

Edited by Jetwreck

I was thinking of drawing up a simple mod to allow the ATF to pump thru the cooler whilst in manual mode, BUT switch back to standard when in D, thus not buggering my exceptional fuel economy. I'll work on this soon, maybe this weekend, & post some results if anyone is interested.

Craig, I wouldn't have though there'd be that much difference in fluid colour (I'm guessing some looked a bit 'burnt'?) so I will be using manual mode sparingly until I sort something.

im interested. Would this be a wiring mod or require any additional parts beyond a switch/wires??

Maybe a relay so it happens automatically, but it shouldn't cost more than pocket change. I haven't had more than a cursory glance, but noticed a few things when reading up on speed wires for the cruise control.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...