Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1331896084[/url]' post='6277435']

Ok I don't really understand this, so bear with me here...

I take it what you're saying Alex is the duty of the injectors has an impact on the severity of the shifts? So if the injectors are at a low duty, you get sloppy shifts?

So if I was going to stick with 98, I'd want to run standard or under 500cc injectors to keep them at 80-90% duty?

First I'm hearing of all this, so just trying to get my head around it. You're running 600-odd cc Deatschwerks, right Alex?

Hey mate. It's the base fuel schedule, not the injectors. But it's related. You want to run close to the capacity of the injector, but also with a margin of error. For example, if you have a 98 car running 1000cc but tuned to 220 kw or so, using 50% duty, then gearbox will be shit. It just won't run decent line pressure, because it does not reach the area in the table where the gearbox firms up. Now, if you run 1000cc and are on e85 and your are running big power, then you see 80% duty, a higher bfs and the car will access the good part of the table. Run a injector suitable for your power level.

I'm on 600cc, don't know what duty cycle, but I'd guess about 60% at most.

Sorry, another thing is the best way to do it would be to plug in your piggyback and with the stock injectors and boost check what base fuel schedule the cars sees at a stock k fuel multiplier. Then drop in injectors, wind up boost and try to get as close as possible to the original base fuel and retain safe tune. Note that your ecu will never change the calculated load table, don't think you could ever change it, but I don't now what effect that table has.

Edited by PN-Mad
  • 1 month later...

Nice! :yes:

Does your car really run out to 6800 rpm or is there a slight calibration issue with that dyno & your car? And is your sig up to date? Is your 'tune' what the std ECU is giving you with the mods you have done, or do you have something else?

Edited by Commsman

Nice! :yes:

Does your car really run out to 6800 rpm or is there a slight calibration issue with that dyno & your car? And is your sig up to date? Is your 'tune' what the std ECU is giving you with the mods you have done, or do you have something else?

standard ecu, and yes its up to date.

i know that my ecu is different to yours because i dont have speed cut at 170km/h like everyone else so i'd assume AUTECH have played with a few things on the ECU.

as for my redline i'll have to double check that, but yes he bounced it off the limiter LOL

standard ecu, and yes its up to date.

i know that my ecu is different to yours because i dont have speed cut at 170km/h like everyone else so i'd assume AUTECH have played with a few things on the ECU.

as for my redline i'll have to double check that, but yes he bounced it off the limiter LOL

Sooo, errr; what'll she do mistah?

On a private road of course... :whistling:

as far as i have been lead to believe i didnt have an LSD but my nice 11's down the road (private road) tell me otherwise.........

also yes Leon, my engine rev's till 6800RPM.

as far as i have been lead to believe i didnt have an LSD but my nice 11's down the road (private road) tell me otherwise.........

also yes Leon, my engine rev's till 6800RPM.

Got a VIN? Run it through fast / EPCData ( http://nissan.epcdata.ru/stagea/ )

Got a VIN? Run it through fast / EPCData ( http://nissan.epcdata.ru/stagea/ )

I punched mine in; and it doesn't specifically say that it has an LSD (which it does), but if you click on "Final Drive, Rear" it displays the exploded diagram of the Viscous LSD diff assy.

Just tried mine, shows a single spinner in the diagram. I've used this before but never figured out this function. Thanks Dunc.

You'd better get in touch with them, to let them know they need to update your stats with a f**k off big turbo!

I punched mine in; and it doesn't specifically say that it has an LSD (which it does), but if you click on "Final Drive, Rear" it displays the exploded diagram of the Viscous LSD diff assy.

You should also get 'Spec Code: DIFF6' which, if you hover over, says 'Viscous LSD' (or at least thats what mine does)

Pretty easy way to tell - stick your jack under the diff, lift, and turn a wheel. The other side of my car turns the oppo way, Craigs with the LSD turns the same way.

You can do 11-sies with an open, but if you have a hint of lock on, it'll do the inside.

  • 2 weeks later...

throwing some idea's together for modifing my axis front bar............

basically steal the R35 grill insert and make my own version of that to suit the axis lines and steal the audi's design of the side air vent sections and marry them all together.......... i've got a vision in my head so i know what it's gonna look like but putting it on paper is another story LOL

audi_rs6_2011_by_marko0811-d3dg6o2.jpgventross-nissan-gtr-r35-skyline-3.jpg

post-83704-0-05712300-1337855907_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...