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Lambchop With A Renault Axis Here...


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OK any of the guys running F-Con's might be able to help me out and of course Scotty...........

i might aswell quote whats been said its a it easier, but any ways Alex did a cipher log on my car and then i passed on the details to Jez and the question is as follows:

Alex: "there seems to be a problem with the ECUs AFR correction, because it is cycling to each end of the ability to % correct. To my knowledge this is usually caused by the fueling map not being accurate enough in the low range/stoich range. You can try disconnecting the O2 sensor, and see how it drives, but let Jez know, and I'm sure he'll be able to touch it up a bit. If it gets really bad, just disconnect the HKS and run the stock ecu."

Jez: "Have u spoken to Scott? He mentioned that the f con is designed for 350z and the 02 sensors cant be used accurately or something along those lines. Have a chat to him but of course we can check it on the dyno or road with my wideband"

cheers Theo.

Have you got a Wideband Theo?

Might be worth connecting the output of it to the F-con for feedback.

Not sure about what Jez said about the O2 sensor, never heard that myself, but I'm connecting the wideband to the F-con to cover that base.

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Just disconnect the feedback for now, although you will need to switch it off in the software. I have never had my o2 feedback working, there is no narrowband sensor in my exhaust. I was planning to do as Ryan said, hook the wideband in to the fcon. Do we have information on which input to use ect? It's been a while since I looked at the wiring diagram...

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This is what I was able to scrounge in my files...

Wideband A/F 5V - GCC Ignition Signal Input 16

Wideband A/F GND - GCC Ignition Analog GND

Fuel 2: Wideband Input

AFR 1 Feedback Map: Fuel Trim Map

AFR 2 Feedback Map: OFF

AFR Feedback Start Time: 60

AFR Feedback Cycle Time: 100 msec

AFR Feedback Volume: 1.00

AFR Feedback ECT (low): 80 C

AFR Feedback ECT (high): 100 C

NOTE: To enable Target AFR tuning, AFR mask table needs "1" setting in enable zone.

NOTE: Once Target AFR tuning is done, set AFR 1 Feedback Map to "OFF"

Not sure if that's useful, mine is setup a little different.

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$444.00 for a Autometer 3378

Sport-Comp Air/Fuel Ratio Pro Gauge

2-1/16", Digital, Wideband, Range: AFR or LAMBDA

does that price sound about right and is it a good unit?

would like to stick to this one as it will match the rest of my gauges but if its not suitable or a rip off i might reconsider.

edit:

  • Includes 8 ft. tubing or wiring harness.
  • LED digital display.
  • 0-4v data output feed for ECU, data acquisition unit, or Laptop tuning
  • Auto-Dimming gauge brightness feature
  • Includes custom tuned .1 AFR Resolution Bosch LSU4.2 Sensor
  • Display data in Lambda or numerical A/F ratio
  • User programmable range
  • Peak recall/memory
  • 10:1 to 20:1 AFR Range for Gasoline Applications
  • Adjustable for Alternate Fuel Types (Ethanol, Methanol, Propane, CNG)
  • 6:1 to 18:1 AFR Range for Alternate Fuel Types
  • User Programmable Warning Function
  • This product has no provision for dial illumination/back lighting

Edited by WAGON_BOY
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hhmmm seems as though my stock computer has overridden and tuned itself to a bad state (its been in about 2000km)

noticed pinging today, and once again the cell light came on, but this time when cruising down the highway.

the exhaust smells like unburnt fuel and the engine oil reaks of petrol, so im not happy but we'll get it sorted.

so i think its time to sort out the O2 sensor or f*ck it off and like you guys have said get a wideband and connect it to the f-con.

any other idea's welcome.

Edited by WAGON_BOY
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it only ping'ed cos i was being a knob held it in 4th going up a steep hill at 90km/h i shouldn't have pushed it and/or dropped it down a gear and it probably would've been alright i guess.

but it makes me wonder if it's done it more often and i haven't noticed cos i've had the radio on.

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Not worth the risk I don't think, so cheap insurance. You can log it all too.

I don't think Scott had issues with the stock ECU retuning itself though?

I'll be able to tell you more in a few weeks when I get it in. Although mine will be different, as I've got the extra sensors.

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That is the sensor plug, you would need to turn off o2 feedback in the fcon though or the code will show.

If it is pinking you will need to get timing backed out in that cell. Doesn't sound like a safe tune unfortunately. Take it back and get it sorted asap. Bad pinking is similar to hitting the edge of the piston with a mallot, the engine won't take it for long at that power level.

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I suspect the ping was due to it being too lean. Was like cycling before, adding and taking fuel. If it was taking fuel out up the hill, then it would increase the risk of ping. Unplug O2, reset ecu, and see what it does. Shouldn't ping in high load/rpm because it shouldn't be using the O2 correction.

I think the tune is safe, but it's the ecu having trouble with the O2 sensor. The tune really has no bearing on that. If it doesn't work, then just as Scotty said, move the fuel target to 15:1 and that'll stop the ecu using the O2.

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is there any way to stop the fault code 0135 popping up cos the O2 sensor is unplugged ?

Get a wideband with a programmable narrowband output.

You can then wire the narrowband output into where the O2 sensor was, and the wideband output into the fcon.

This ^^ is excellent advice!

If you replace your narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband one to do what Ryan suggested above, the CEL will continue to pop up, not because you don't have a narrowband signal going to the ECU (you will have from your wideband), but because the ECU can't see the O2 sensor' heating circuit.

The fix is either a) install your wideband sensor further down the pipe, just before the cat (like recommended by many suppliers) & leave your factory narrowband sensor still plugged in. The signal circuit will be disconnected from the ECU so won't do diddly to your tune.

Or b) replace your factory O2 with the wideband one and put a very large (10W) resistor across the heating circuit (near that green plug that you pictured) & that will fool the ECU into thinking the sensor is still there. I'll have to check what resistance it should be, but somewhere around 10 ohms is what I'm thinking.

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